Zagreb

Day 1: Upper Town, markets and the Green Horseshoe

Ease into Zagreb’s rhythm with coffee culture, red umbrellas and medieval lanes. Today blends the city’s oldest quarters with 19th‑century grandeur and plenty of good eating.

• Morning: Start at Dolac Market for fresh fruit, sir i vrhnje and a warm burek; arrive by 8:00–9:00 for peak buzz. Wander to the Stone Gate and the cathedral (exteriors currently under restoration), then ride the tiny funicular up to the Upper Town.
• Midday: Explore St. Mark’s Square and choose a museum: Museum of Broken Relationships or the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (small, outstanding; check hours). Lunch nearby at La Štruk for classic štrukli or try Heritage – Croatian Street Food for regional small plates.
• Afternoon: Walk Lenuci’s “Green Horseshoe”: Tomislav Square → Zrinjevac → the Croatian National Theatre and the Croatian State Archives (lovely Secession interiors). Join špica for coffee on Cvjetni trg/Bogovićeva; look up to spot Art Nouveau balconies and tilework.
• Evening: Dinner in the centre at Vinodol or Stari Fijaker for continental classics (try purica s mlincima or Zagrebački odrezak). Drift to Opatovina’s craft‑beer bars or along Tkalčićeva for a lively, open‑air night scene; in December, swap this for Advent’s Fuliranje food zone.

Tip: Most museums close on Mondays—swap the order of Day 1/2 if needed.

Day 2: Contemporary Zagreb, trams and the Sava

Cross the river to New Zagreb for bold architecture and Croatia’s flagship contemporary art. You’ll ride the blue trams, taste a proper gablec and end with a standout dinner.

• Morning: From the centre, take a tram south across the Sava (e.g., 7 or 14) and a short connecting bus to the Museum of Contemporary Art; it’s spacious, accessible and a pillar of the post‑earthquake scene. Pause on the roof terrace for city views.
• Midday: Stroll to Bundek Lake for an easy loop and a coffee by the water; on sunny days locals picnic here. Alternatively, seek a gablec (daily lunch special) at a no‑frills spot between 10:30–13:30—look for chalkboard menus with bean stews, meat patties or sarma.
• Afternoon: Tram back to the centre for the HDLU (Meštrović Pavilion) exhibitions or hop to Lauba House for rotating contemporary shows and events (check programmes). If you like street art, detour to large murals by Lonac/Lunar—local tours run year‑round.
• Evening: Book ahead for dinner: Noel (Michelin‑starred), NAV (innovative, product‑driven) or Zinfandel’s at the Esplanade for a classic setting. Post‑dinner, sample Croatian wines (ask for Graševina, Pošip, or Plavac Mali) or a rakija nightcap.

Transit tip: Buy a dnevna karta (day ticket) from a kiosk or the mojZET app and validate on board; it’s great value and avoids driver purchases.

Day 3: Architecture arc, Mirogoj to Maksimir and gallery finale

Today traces Zagreb’s architectural layers—from a masterpiece cemetery to grand parks and intimate ateliers. It’s reflective, green and ends back among the city lights.

• Morning: Bus 106 from the cathedral area to Mirogoj Cemetery for Hermann Bollé’s arcades and cupolas; sections are under reconstruction, but it remains unmissable. On the way back, stop at the Glyptotheque for sculpture casts and a quiet, academic vibe.
• Midday: Head east to Maksimir Park for a woodland walk and lakes; peek at Dinamo’s stadium if you’re a football fan. Picnic if the weather is fine, or return to the centre for a market‑sourced bite or a traditional grill (ćevapi or buncek with sour cabbage in winter).
• Afternoon: Choose a culture slot: Klovićevi Dvori Gallery for blockbuster exhibitions, the Meštrović Atelier for a serene studio visit, or the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters for a calm, classical hour. If Museum Night (late January) coincides, plan a rest then head back out late.
• Evening: For a relaxed finale, graze the Martićeva “Design District” bistros and specialty coffee bars; in September, the Burger Festival adds a fun street‑food twist. Alternatively, book the Croatian National Theatre for opera/ballet and finish with gelato at Orijent or cakes at Vincek.

Seasonal notes: Spring brings wild asparagus on menus; autumn is for mushrooms and new wine (Martinje, 11 Nov). In high summer, schedule longer walks early or late; in winter, Advent lights and warming kuhan(o) vino set the tone.

By Air

• Franjo Tuđman Airport (ZAG) is 13–15 km SE of the centre; 25–40 minutes by taxi/ride‑hail (Uber/Bolt widely available).
• Airport shuttle bus (Pleso Prijevoz) runs to Zagreb Central Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor); 30–35 minutes, usually every 30 minutes (frequency adapts to flights).
• City bus 290 (ZET) connects the airport with Kvaternik Square; about 35–45 minutes.
• Alternative airports often used:
  • Ljubljana (LJU) ~1.5–2 h by car/coach (≈140 km).
  • Graz (GRZ) ~2.5–3 h (≈185 km).
  • Budapest (BUD) ~3.5–4 h (≈345 km).
  • Vienna (VIE) ~4–5 h (≈370 km).
  • Trieste (TRS) ~3–3.5 h (≈230 km).

By Train

• Main station: Zagreb Glavni kolodvor (central; on King Tomislav Square).
• International key routes (typical times; check timetables):
  • Ljubljana: 2–2.5 h (direct).
  • Budapest (Keleti): 5–6 h (direct/1 change).
  • Vienna (Hbf via Maribor/Graz): ~6–7 h (direct EC/IC on select days or 1 change).
  • Munich: overnight EuroNight (~8–9 h, via Salzburg).
• Domestic:
  • Split: ~6–7 h (day tilting ICN and seasonal night services).
  • Rijeka: ~4–5 h.
  • Osijek: ~3.5–4.5 h.
• Operators/booking: HŽPP (Croatia) for domestic and many cross‑border; also ÖBB (Austria), SŽ (Slovenia), MÁV‑START (Hungary).

By Bus

• Central hub: Zagreb Central Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor, “AKZ”), Avenija Marina Držića; ~10 minutes by tram from the main square.
• Very frequent coaches to major Croatian cities and strong international links:
  • Ljubljana 2–2.5 h; Trieste 3–4 h; Vienna 5–6 h; Budapest 4.5–5.5 h; Belgrade 5–6.5 h.
  • Split 4.5–5.5 h; Zadar 3–3.5 h; Plitvice Lakes 2–2.5 h.
• Major operators include FlixBus and Arriva Croatia, plus numerous regional carriers.

By Car

• Zagreb sits at the junction of key motorways:
  • A2 to/from Slovenia (Ljubljana).
  • A3 east–west across Croatia (to Slovenia/Serbia).
  • A1 south to the Dalmatian coast (Split, Zadar).
  • A6 to Rijeka (via Bosiljevo).
  • A4 towards Hungary (linking to M7 for Budapest).
• Typical driving times (traffic dependent):
  • Ljubljana ~1.5–2 h; Rijeka ~2–2.5 h; Zadar ~3–3.5 h; Split ~4–4.5 h; Budapest ~3.5–4 h; Vienna ~4–5 h.
• Tolls apply on Croatian motorways (pay at booths or via ENC device). Slovenia, Austria and Hungary use vignettes/e‑vignettes for motorways.
• Croatia is in Schengen (land borders with Slovenia/Hungary are usually barrier‑free); normal checks still apply at non‑Schengen borders (e.g., Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina).
• Winter equipment rules apply (typically 1 Nov–31 Mar) in Croatia and neighbouring countries.