Trapani

Day 1: Harbour, markets and Trapanese classics

Ease into Trapani’s rhythms with sea air, church bells and the bustle of a working port. Today is about the essentials: the fish market, pesto alla trapanese, and sunset by the water.

• Morning: Grab a cornetto and caffè at a neighbourhood bar, then head early (by 08:30) to the fish market on Via Cristoforo Colombo to watch the morning trade. Keep it low-key, wear closed shoes, and ask what’s local; if you plan a seafood lunch, this is when chefs decide their menu.
• Midday: Settle into the historic centre for lunch at a traditional spot such as Osteria La Bettolaccia or Cantina Siciliana and order busiate with pesto alla trapanese. Portions are generous; consider sharing an antipasto and go for a mezzo litro of house wine—never ask for parmesan on seafood.
• Afternoon: Stroll Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Via Garibaldi, popping into small botteghe for tastings of artisanal Trapani sea salt and tuna products like bottarga. If it’s breezy and clear, drive or cycle to the salt pans between Trapani and Paceco for a salt-tasting and flamingo-spotting; many venues close mid-afternoon, so check timings.
• Evening: Join the passeggiata along Lungomare Dante Alighieri and try a slice of pizza rianata with anchovies, garlic and oregano, or book a refined dinner at Serisso47 to see how young chefs elevate tradition. Dinner rarely starts before 20:00; finish with gelato or granita and an espresso (save cappuccino for mornings).

Day 2: Erice views, convent sweets and couscous

Ascend to the medieval hill-town of Erice for stone lanes, sweeping views and iconic pastries. Return to the port for Trapani’s signature couscous di pesce.

• Morning: Ride the cable car up to Erice (it can close for wind; drive or take a bus if needed) and beeline to Pasticceria Maria Grammatico for just-baked genovesi ericine with lemon custard. Wander the lanes and ramparts with a second coffee—milk-based coffee is a morning-only affair.
• Midday: Enjoy a simple lunch in Erice—caponata, pane cunzato and local cheeses—then descend to Trapani. If you prefer to stay light for dinner, snack on an arancina en route; in western Sicily it’s feminine: arancina, not arancino.
• Afternoon: Join a hands-on class focused on busiate and pesto or a couscous workshop (book ahead; these “experiential” sessions are popular). Alternatively, browse the port-side panifici and paninerie near the ferry for a cabbucio sandwich and local atmosphere.
• Evening: Reserve a table for traditional couscous di pesce (try Trattoria del Porto near the ferries or Da Salvatore in the centre). The semolina and fish broth are served separately—ladle on as much as you like—and close with an amaro or caffè; if you’re here in late July, head to Piazza Mercato del Pesce for Stragusto’s street food stalls.

Day 3: Salt, vineyards and countryside table

Venture beyond town to taste the landscape: windmills and saline, crisp island whites and a farmhouse feast. Choose between sea breezes at Lo Stagnone or a sunset back in Trapani.

• Morning: Drive to the Saline di Trapani e Paceco for a guided walk and salt tasting; bring a hat and water in summer. Swing by Nubia to learn about Aglio Rosso di Nubia (red garlic), a Slow Food darling that perfumes local sauces.
• Midday: Continue to the Marsala countryside or Lo Stagnone lagoon for a winery visit—focus on Grillo, Catarratto and Zibibbo; appoint a driver. If you prefer a farm lunch, book an agriturismo such as Vultaggio or Baglio Fontanasalsa for a seasonal set menu built around their olive oil and produce (autumn brings vendemmia flavours; winter leans to citrus and artichokes).
• Afternoon: Return via lagoon viewpoints for a breezy walk, or head north to the beach at San Vito Lo Capo; in late September, the Cous Cous Fest adds tastings and demos. Back in Trapani, sample panelle and crocchè or a tuna tasting plate at a deli; pick up bottarga or artisanal salt as edible souvenirs.
• Evening: Keep it casual with a street-food supper at Sapurito Street Food & Goloserie or book a final trattoria blow-out in the centre. Order seasonal local fish, do the scarpetta with bread, and round up the bill rather than tipping heavily (there’s usually a coperto); on summer weekends, reserve for 20:30+ and linger like a local.

By Air

• Trapani–Birgi (Vincenzo Florio) Airport (TPS): ~18 km from the city; 25–35 minutes by car/taxi. Regional buses (AST) run to Trapani and Marsala; typical journey 30–40 minutes (timetables vary seasonally).
• Palermo Falcone Borsellino Airport (PMO): ~85–90 km; 1 hr 15–30 mins by car via A29/A29dir. Direct coaches (Autoservizi Salemi) link the airport and Palermo city to Trapani in about 1 hr 45–2 hrs.

By Train

• Trapani railway station (Stazione di Trapani) sits near the port.
• Trenitalia regional services connect Trapani with Marsala (about 35–50 mins), Mazara del Vallo (about 1 hr 15–30 mins) and Palermo (typically 3–4 hrs via the inland route through Castelvetrano; the coastal line remains suspended). Trains are slower and less frequent than buses.

By Bus

• Long‑distance and regional buses are often the fastest public transport.
• Autoservizi Salemi: frequent services from Palermo city and Palermo Airport to Trapani (around 2 hrs from city; 1 hr 45–2 hrs from the airport). Main stops are by the port area (Via Ammiraglio Staiti) and central streets.
• AST (Azienda Siciliana Trasporti): regional links to Marsala, Mazara del Vallo, San Vito Lo Capo (seasonal), Erice cable‑car base, and other towns. Check seasonal variations.

By Car

• From Palermo: A29 then A29dir to Trapani; 1 hr 15–30 mins (about 110 km).
• From Catania: A19 to Palermo then A29/A29dir; around 3 hr 30–4 hrs.
• From Agrigento: SS115; roughly 2 hr 15–2 hr 45 mins.
• The historic centre is largely pedestrianised; plan to park around the port or signed car parks and walk in.

By Ferry

• Trapani port has frequent hydrofoils/ferries to the Egadi Islands (Favignana, Levanzo, Marettimo) and services to Pantelleria (Liberty Lines hydrofoils; Siremar ferries). Useful if arriving from the islands.
• There are no regular mainland Italy ferries to Trapani; for mainland routes use Palermo and continue by bus or car.