Sicily

Day 1: Catania’s lava-stone energy and Etna’s living volcano Catania sets the tone with dark, dramatic architecture, lively street life, and a whiff of Etna on the breeze. The city’s expressive, theatrical character contrasts beautifully with the calm of vineyards and lava fields on the volcano’s flanks.

• Morning: Explore the fish market (La Pescheria) as stalls burst into life; order an espresso at the counter and watch the theatre of haggling. Stroll Piazza Duomo and Via Etnea to see how black lava stone shapes the city’s mood. Tip: arrive by 9:00 for peak market atmosphere and cooler air.
• Midday: Grab a quick street-food lunch (arancino, cipollina) and a granita with brioche. If it’s scirocco-hot, duck into a cool Baroque church or a café—Catania’s pace softens at riposo.
• Afternoon: Drive to Etna Sud (Rifugio Sapienza) for crater walks or take the cable car/jeep combo if conditions allow; alternatively, opt for a slower, indulgent Etna DOC winery tasting on the north slope (Randazzo/Castiglione di Sicilia). Seasonal note: on Etna bring layers—temperatures can be 10–15°C cooler than the coast and weather changes fast.
• Evening: Return to Catania for aperitivo around Piazza Teatro Massimo, then dinner on Via Santa Filomena. Join the passeggiata on Via Etnea; locals dress well—fare la bella figura is part of the ritual.

Day 2: Syracuse’s deep time and Ortigia’s luminous elegance Syracuse blends intellectual heritage with seaside grace: colossal ancient structures, Greek drama, and golden limestone streets that glow at dusk. The mood moves from contemplative in the morning to convivial by night.

• Morning: Visit Parco Archeologico della Neapolis: the Greek Theatre, the Ear of Dionysius quarry, and the Roman Amphitheatre. Go at opening to beat buses and heat; if you’re here in May–June, check for evening classical performances.
• Midday: Cross to Ortigia for a leisurely lunch by the water near the Fonte Aretusa. Respect local rhythm: many shops close 13:00–16:00, perfect for a slow meal or a siesta by the sea.
• Afternoon: Wander Ortigia’s lanes—Duomo square, Temple of Apollo remains, artisan boutiques—and take a short boat tour around the island or a dip from the solarium platforms if seas are calm. Tip: a single coffee at an outdoor table buys you time to people-watch and absorb the vibe.
• Evening: Linger in Piazza Duomo as the stone turns honey-coloured; then dine on seafood and Nero d’Avola. If a scirocco blows, expect a drowsier, irritable island—pazienza and extra water help.

Day 3: Pantalica’s wild necropolis and Noto’s Baroque theatre Today contrasts raw nature and solemn antiquity with one of Italy’s most theatrical Baroque towns. End with a golden-hour passeggiata that feels like stepping onto a stage set.

• Morning: Drive early to Pantalica (Ferla or Sortino trailheads) for a hike among thousands of rock-cut tombs in the Anapo Valley; carry sturdy shoes, water, and swim gear for a river dip. This is deep-time Sicily—quiet, aromatic with wild herbs, and powerfully moving.
• Midday: Picnic in the shade by the river or head to a countryside agriturismo for a long, simple lunch; expect abbiocco afterwards. In peak summer, avoid hiking in the middle of the day.
• Afternoon: Continue to Noto; visit the cathedral and palazzi as the heat eases. The light on the town’s honey-stone façades is best from about 16:30 onwards.
• Evening: Join the Corso Vittorio Emanuele passeggiata, gelato in hand, and watch the nightly social theatre unfold. Optional coastal finale: a short drive to Marzamemi for seaside aperitivo and a fishermen’s-village vibe outside high season.

Notes on logistics and flow

• With a car, this east-side loop is relaxed: Catania base for Day 1, Syracuse/Ortigia base for Days 2–3. Without a car, use trains/buses between Catania and Syracuse, and book a guided excursion for Etna and Pantalica.
• Build buffer time into everything—Sicily rewards lentezza. On the first Sunday of the month, some state-run sites offer free entry but can be busier.

By Air

• Catania (CTA – Vincenzo Bellini): Sicily’s busiest airport.
  • To Catania centre: 15–25 min by Alibus; 15–20 min by taxi.
  • To Taormina: 60–75 min by direct Interbus coach.
  • To Siracusa: 60–90 min by direct coach (Interbus/Etna Trasporti).
  • To Etna towns (Nicolosi/Zafferana): ~45–60 min by car.
  • Wide European network and frequent connections via Rome and Milan.
• Palermo (PMO – Falcone Borsellino):
  • To Palermo Centrale: 35–50 min by Trenitalia airport train; ~50 min by Prestia e Comandè bus; 35–45 min by taxi.
  • To Cefalù: ~1 hr 15 min by train (change/through services from Centrale).
  • Domestic/European flights plus hub links (Rome, Milan, Naples, Paris, Munich, Zurich, etc.).
• Trapani (TPS – Vincenzo Florio):
  • To Trapani: 35–45 min by AST bus or ~30–40 min by taxi.
  • To Marsala: ~40–50 min by bus/taxi.
  • Mainly low-cost and seasonal routes.
• Comiso (CIY – Pio La Torre) for the Baroque southeast:
  • To Ragusa: 30–40 min by Tumino/AST bus; ~30 min by car.
  • To Modica: 50–60 min by bus; ~45 min by car.
  • To Noto: ~1 hr 20 min by car (bus via Ragusa/Modica).
• Islands:
  • Lampedusa (LMP) and Pantelleria (PNL) have flights mainly via Palermo/Catania (seasonal mainland links).

By Train

• Mainland connections (Trenitalia):
  • Direct InterCity and overnight sleeper services from Rome, Naples, Milan (portions for Palermo and Siracusa/Catania). Trains are ferried across the Strait of Messina.
  • Typical times: Rome–Catania ~9–10 hrs (day); Rome–Palermo ~10–12 hrs; Milan–Palermo/Siracusa ~20–22 hrs (overnight).
• Strait of Messina:
  • Long-distance trains board the train ferry Villa San Giovanni–Messina (~30 min crossing).
  • Foot passengers can use frequent fast ferries Reggio Calabria–Messina (~20–30 min).
• Main stations in Sicily:
  • Palermo Centrale; Catania Centrale; Messina Centrale; Siracusa; Taormina-Giardini; Agrigento Centrale.
• Key intra-island times (Regionale/IC, route-dependent):
  • Messina–Catania: ~1 hr 10–1 hr 45.
  • Catania–Taormina-Giardini: ~50–60 min.
  • Catania–Siracusa: ~1–1 hr 20.
  • Palermo–Cefalù: ~50–70 min.
  • Palermo–Messina: ~2 hr 30–3 hr.
  • Palermo–Catania: typically ~2 hr 50–3 hr 45 (works can affect timings).
  • Palermo–Agrigento: ~2 hr.
• Tickets: trenitalia.com/app; reservations required for IC/overnight; Regionale tickets must be validated if paper.

By Ferry

• Strait of Messina (cars and foot passengers):
  • Villa San Giovanni–Messina (Caronte&Tourist): ~20–30 min, very frequent, 24/7.
  • Reggio Calabria–Messina fast ferries (Blu Jet): ~20–30 min, frequent.
• Overnight/mid-haul ferries (cars allowed; typical durations):
  • Naples–Palermo: ~10–11 hrs (Grimaldi/GNV).
  • Civitavecchia (Rome)–Palermo: ~14–15 hrs (GNV).
  • Genoa–Palermo: ~20–22 hrs (GNV).
  • Naples–Catania: ~12–13 hrs (Grimaldi).
  • Salerno–Messina: ~8–9 hrs (Caronte&Tourist).
  • Valletta (Malta)–Pozzallo: ~1 hr 45 (Virtu Ferries), with bus links to Catania (~1 hr 30).
• Booking: operator sites; summer demand is high—reserve early, especially with a car.

By Car

• From mainland Italy:
  • Drive to Villa San Giovanni and take the car ferry to Messina (~20–30 min; sailings day and night).
• Key Sicilian motorways (A-roads; some tolled):
  • A19 Palermo–Catania (no tolls); A20 Palermo–Messina (toll sections); A18 Messina–Catania–Siracusa (toll Messina–Giarre); A29 Palermo–Trapani/Mazara del Vallo.
• Approximate drive times:
  • Palermo–Catania: 2 hr 30–3 hr.
  • Palermo–Trapani: 1 hr 15–2 hr.
  • Palermo–Cefalù: 1–1 hr 30.
  • Catania–Taormina: 50–60 min.
  • Catania–Siracusa: 1–1 hr 20.
  • Messina–Catania: 1–1 hr 30.
• Notes: city centres often have ZTL restricted zones; tolls on A18/A20; summer traffic can be heavy on coastal routes.

By Coach/Bus

• Mainland–Sicily:
  • Long-distance coaches (e.g., FlixBus) run via the Strait (coach boards the ferry) to Palermo and Catania.
  • Typical times: Naples–Catania ~8–9 hrs; Rome–Catania/Palermo ~10–13 hrs (route and stops vary).
• Within Sicily:
  • Intercity operators include SAIS Autolinee, Interbus/Etna Trasporti, Segesta, AST.
  • Main bus terminals are adjacent to the central rail stations in Palermo, Catania, Messina and Siracusa.