Sardinia

Day 1: Cagliari, Poetto and the south-east coast

Begin in the island’s capital to feel the contrast between urban life and the sea. You’ll glimpse flamingos in city wetlands, then curve along one of Sardinia’s most scenic coasts to the protected waters of Capo Carbonara.

• Morning: Stroll Cagliari’s historic Castello and Stampace districts for coffee and views from Bastione di Saint Remy; greet locals with a simple “buongiorno”. Roll down to Poetto beach and the Sella del Diavolo headland; if the Mistral is blowing, the air will be crystal-clear and the water choppy.
• Midday: Hire bikes and follow the flat paths through Parco Molentargius-Saline to see greater flamingos; bring water and a hat. Light lunch at a beach chiosco (try pane frattau or a simple octopus salad).
• Afternoon: Drive 1 hr to Villasimius for the Capo Carbonara Marine Protected Area: swim or snorkel at Porto Giunco and Punta Molentis. In July–August arrive after 16:00 for easier parking and softer light; avoid trampling posidonia on the shoreline.
• Evening: Return to Cagliari for an aperitivo in Marina, then dinner in Stampace (malloreddus, bottarga, seadas). If it’s breezy, choose a sheltered terrace; book ahead at weekends.

Day 2: Barbagia villages and the Supramonte

Head inland to Sardinia’s “stone” heart for masks, murals and mountain silence. Today is about pace and people: observe reserve, greet elders, and let lunch run long.

• Morning: Drive 2–2.5 hrs to Mamoiada; visit the Museo delle Maschere Mediterranee to understand the Mamuthones. Seasonal note: in winter (Jan–Feb) village bonfires and carnival rituals electrify the streets—dress warmly and keep a respectful distance.
• Midday: Continue 20 min to Orgosolo for the political murales and a slow lunch at an agriturismo (expect home-made pasta and Cannonau). Speak softly, don’t rush—“Sardinian time” is part of the welcome.
• Afternoon: Aim for the Supramonte near Oliena (45 min): choose a manageable hike to the karst spring of Su Gologone or towards Tiscali’s hidden village. Wear sturdy shoes and carry 2 litres of water; in summer, start hikes by 16:00 to dodge the heat.
• Evening: Stay inland (Oliena/Dorgali/Fonni) at an agriturismo. Accept the post-dinner mirto or filu ’e ferru offered—refusing can seem unfriendly; join the passeggiata in the village before turning in.

Day 3: Gulf of Orosei by boat and cove-hopping

Finish with the “luminous sea”: sheer limestone cliffs, caves and coves seen best from the water. This day pairs effortless beauty with gentle walking or paddling.

• Morning: Drive to Cala Gonone (45–60 min from Oliena) and board a boat (group tour or self-drive gommone) for Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu and Cala Sisine; reserve in advance in July–September. If you plan to land-hike to Cala Goloritzé instead, permits are capped—book via the local app the day before.
• Midday: Swim and snorkel in calm, clear water; bring reef-safe sunscreen and cash for beach kiosks (or pack a pranzo al sacco). Sand, pebbles and shells are protected—fines are steep for taking them.
• Afternoon: Short cave wander at Cala Luna or a SUP/kayak along the cliffs if conditions are gentle. If a strong Mistral is forecast, the east coast is usually calmer, but boats may still be limited—check the evening before.
• Evening: Drive 1.5–2 hrs to Olbia (for flights/ferries) or stay a final night in Dorgali/Cala Gonone. Celebrate with a seafood dinner and a glass of Vermentino; in shoulder seasons (May–June, Sept–Oct) you’ll find fewer crowds and warm seas.

Notes on logistics:

• A car is essential; mountain and coastal roads are winding—allow extra time.
• In peak season, beach access may require pre-booking (e.g., La Pelosa, Cala Brandinchi/Lu Impostu in the north if you add an extra day).
• Always greet people you pass in villages, close gates you open on trails, and never anchor (or let skippers anchor) on posidonia meadows.

By Air

• Cagliari Elmas (CAG) – main gateway in the south
  • To Cagliari centre: 7 min by regional train (every ~20–30 min), 10–15 min by taxi.
  • Sample flight times: Rome 55–60 min; Milan 1h–1h20; London ~2h30.
• Olbia Costa Smeralda (OLB) – best for Costa Smeralda/Gallura
  • To Olbia centre: ~10 min by bus/taxi. Porto Cervo 30–40 min; San Teodoro 25–30 min; Palau ~45 min.
  • Strong seasonal network from across Europe; year‑round links to Rome/Milan.
• Alghero–Fertilia (AHO) – north‑west (Alghero/Sassari)
  • To Alghero: ~20–25 min by bus; 15–20 min by taxi. To Sassari: ~35–45 min by bus/rail link.
  • Mix of year‑round domestic and seasonal international routes.

Notes

• Peak (Jun–Sep): more direct flights from major European cities (London, Paris, Berlin, Barcelona, etc.). Book early.
• Low season: rely on Rome/Milan connections.

By Ferry

• Main Sardinian ports: Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Porto Torres (north); Cagliari (south); Arbatax (east); Santa Teresa Gallura (to/from Corsica).
• Key routes (typical durations; day vs overnight vary):
  • Civitavecchia–Olbia: 5–6h (day) / 7–8h (night)
  • Livorno–Olbia or Golfo Aranci: ~7–9h
  • Piombino–Olbia (seasonal): ~5h
  • Genoa–Porto Torres or Olbia: ~10–12h (overnight)
  • Toulon (FR)–Porto Torres (seasonal): ~10–14h (overnight)
  • Barcelona (ES)–Porto Torres (seasonal): ~12–13h (overnight)
  • Bonifacio (Corsica)–Santa Teresa Gallura: ~50–60 min (frequent day sailings)
• Main operators: Moby/Tirrenia, Grimaldi Lines, GNV (Grandi Navi Veloci), Corsica/Sardinia Ferries, Ichnusa Lines (Corsica link).
• Taking a car/motorbike is straightforward; reserve cabins/vehicle spaces well ahead in summer.

By Train

• No rail link to the island; use trains to reach mainland ferry ports:
  • Rome Termini–Civitavecchia: 45–75 min (frequent)
  • Florence SMN–Livorno: ~1h20
  • Milan–Genoa: ~1h30–2h
• On Sardinia (for onward travel):
  • Main stations: Cagliari, Oristano, Sassari, Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Porto Torres.
  • Typical Trenitalia times: Cagliari–Sassari ~3h; Cagliari–Olbia ~3h40–4h20 (via Ozieri‑Chilivani); Sassari–Olbia ~1h40–2h; Sassari–Porto Torres ~30–40 min.
  • ARST services (narrow‑gauge/metro‑tram) cover some regional links (e.g., Sassari–Alghero ~35–60 min).

By Car

• Driving to ferry ports (approximate times, traffic dependent):
  • Rome → Civitavecchia: ~1h
  • Milan → Genoa: ~2h
  • Florence → Livorno: ~1h30
  • Nice → Toulon: ~2h
• On Sardinia:
  • Main trunk road: SS131 (Cagliari–Oristano–Sassari–Porto Torres).
  • Scenic east coast: SS125 “Orientale Sarda”.
  • Typical drives: Cagliari–Olbia ~3h15–3h45; Cagliari–Alghero ~2h30–3h; Olbia–Alghero ~1h45–2h.
  • No motorway tolls on the island; roads can be winding—allow extra time, especially in the interior.