Sarajevo

Day 1: Ottoman heart and “Meeting of Cultures”

Begin in Baščaršija, Sarajevo’s 15th‑century bazaar where the Ottoman city still hums in coppersmiths’ alleys and mosque courtyards. This first day is about feeling the old town’s rhythm and the dramatic pivot to Austro‑Hungarian Sarajevo a few streets away.

• Morning: Wander Baščaršija Square by the Sebilj, then slip into Kazandžiluk to watch coppersmiths at work and savour a slow Bosnian coffee (learn the sugar‑cube dip and don’t rush it). Visit Gazi Husrev‑beg Mosque (modest dress; shoes off; scarves provided), peek at the Sahat Kula’s lunar time, and rest in the quiet courtyard of Morića Han.
• Midday: Tour Vijećnica (City Hall) to understand its destruction and rebirth, then cross to Latin Bridge and the Museum of Sarajevo 1878–1918 at the assassination corner. Lunch nearby at an aščinica (Hadžibajrić) for stews and dolmas, or grab ćevapi at Željo/Petica.
• Afternoon: Stroll Ferhadija along the “Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures” line into the Austro‑Hungarian quarter (cathedral, elegant facades), noting Sarajevo Roses set into pavements. Climb gently to Kovači Cemetery for a reflective city view and to see the resting place of Alija Izetbegović.
• Evening: Walk (10–15 mins steep) to Žuta Tabija for the city’s best sunset; in Ramadan, crowds gather for the cannon at iftar. Dine back in the old town (sevdah house or tucked‑away courtyard), then end with another Bosnian coffee; cobbles can be slick, so wear good shoes.

Day 2: Siege stories and Trebević mountain air

Today moves through Sarajevo’s 1990s experience with care and first‑person insight, before reclaiming the hills on Trebević for views and forest walks. Keep the pace humane—these museums are powerful.

• Morning: Join a survivor‑led siege tour or pair the History Museum’s Besieged Sarajevo with the War Childhood Museum (book 60–90 mins each). Ride the tram along Zmaja od Bosne (the former “Sniper Alley”) with context; photos should be respectful—no war‑voyeurism.
• Midday: Taxi to the Tunnel of Hope Museum (Tunnel spasa) near the airport; allow about 90 minutes and pre‑book if visiting in summer. Lunch in Ilidža or head back towards town for a quick burek; wet‑weather plan: Galerija 11/07/95 (Srebrenica memorial) in the centre.
• Afternoon: Glide up Trebević on the cable car (return ticket; shorter hours in winter). Walk the 1984 bobsleigh track and forest paths, then coffee at a mountain hotel; never leave marked paths—unexploded ordnance still exists off‑trail. In winter smog, you’ll often find blue skies above the inversion.
• Evening: Celebrate the city’s brewing heritage at Pivnica HS by the historic Sarajevska Pivara, or sample local craft at Vučko or a speciality bar. Toast “Živjeli!” and know smoking indoors is still common (laws are changing; terraces are best in summer); weekends bring live music at City Pub.

Day 3: Collections, riverside calm and big‑sky vistas

Blend landmark collections with easy riverside time and a final sweep of city views. Go slower today, adding a short trip to springs or an extra museum depending on weather and mood.

• Morning: Start at the National Museum (for the Sarajevo Haggadah—check display hours and opening days) and gardens; alternatively, the Jewish Museum in the Old Synagogue beautifully traces 500 years of Sephardic life. Coffee on Ferhadija or at a calm spot by the Miljacka.
• Midday: Walk Wilson’s Promenade (car‑free afternoons) or tram to Ilidža for Vrelo Bosne’s spring paths (shady in summer, crisp and photogenic in winter). If it’s raining, swap in Svrzo’s House (superb Ottoman townhouse) and the Brusa Bezistan annex of the city museum.
• Afternoon: Take in the skyline from the Avaz Twist Tower’s observation deck, then taxi or hike to Bijela Tabija for a grand panorama (the lanes are steep; use a map and daylight). A quieter alternative is the historic Alifakovac cemetery above Vijećnica, serene and scenic.
• Evening: Time your trip with culture: Sarajevo Film Festival (Aug), MESS (Oct), Jazz Fest (Nov), Baščaršija Nights (Jul); book ahead for headline events. For a final meal, return to an aščinica or try a modern bistro, then a nightcap rakija at a small birtija in Kovači—rounds are shared, eye contact on the toast, and linger as long as you like.

Notes for any season:

• Summer is lively and late; book August accommodation months ahead. Winters can be smoggy—check air‑quality apps and aim viewpoints for clear days.
• Mosque etiquette applies at all times; dress modestly and be quiet during prayers.
• In the hills, remain on marked paths due to historic mine risk; within the city you’re fine.
• Taxis are inexpensive—insist on the meter or use an app; walking rules the compact centre.

By Air

• Sarajevo International Airport (SJJ) is 10 km southwest of the centre (15–25 minutes by taxi, traffic dependent).
  • Taxi: 20–25 BAM to the centre; official rank outside arrivals; app-based taxis available.
  • Shuttle bus: Centrotrans airport shuttle runs to/from the centre (Baščaršija/City Hall area) in about 30–35 minutes; check schedules seasonally.
• Nearby alternatives (often with more low‑cost options):
  • Tuzla (TZL): ~120 km; 2–2.5 hours by car/bus.
  • Mostar (OMO): ~130 km; 2–2.5 hours by car/bus; limited flights.
  • Banja Luka (BNX): ~190 km; 3.5–4.5 hours by car/bus.
  • Split (SPU), Croatia: ~250 km; 4–5 hours by car/bus (summer coaches frequent).
  • Dubrovnik (DBV), Croatia: ~240 km; 4–5 hours by car/bus (summer coaches frequent).
  • Zagreb (ZAG), Croatia: ~400 km; 5–6 hours by car/bus.
  • Belgrade (BEG), Serbia: ~295 km; 5–6 hours by car/bus.

By Train

• Sarajevo Railway Station (Željeznička stanica Sarajevo) is adjacent to the main bus station, west of the centre (Marijin Dvor area).
• Services are primarily domestic:
  • Sarajevo–Mostar–Čapljina: 2–3 hours, multiple daily; very scenic along the Neretva River.
  • Seasonal extension to Ploče (Croatia) may operate in summer—check current timetables.
• International trains are limited/not regular; most cross‑border journeys are faster by coach.
• Buy tickets at the station; seat reservations are usually included on intercity services.

By Bus

• Main Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Sarajevo) is next to the railway station for most domestic and many international routes.
• East Sarajevo Bus Station (Istočno Sarajevo/Lukavica) handles many services to Serbia and Montenegro.
• Key direct/regular routes (times vary by border/traffic):
  • Mostar: 2–2.5 hours
  • Banja Luka: 4–5 hours
  • Tuzla: 3–3.5 hours
  • Dubrovnik (Croatia): 4–5 hours (more in summer)
  • Split (Croatia): 5–6 hours
  • Zagreb (Croatia): 8–9 hours
  • Belgrade (Serbia): 6–8 hours
  • Kotor/Podgorica (Montenegro): 8–10 hours
• Multiple operators (e.g., Centrotrans, Globtour, FlixBus). Buy at station counters or online; carry passport for international routes.

By Car

• Major approaches:
  • From Croatia: via Bijača (A1/E73) or Gradiška/Slavonski Brod (to E661/E73); Split ~4–5 hours, Dubrovnik ~4–5 hours, Zagreb ~4.5–6 hours.
  • From Serbia: via Rača/BIJeljina or Vardište/Višegrad; Belgrade ~5–6 hours.
  • From Montenegro: via Šćepan Polje or Hum; roads are mountainous and slow.
• Notes:
  • No motorway vignette in Bosnia and Herzegovina; pay any motorway tolls at booths.
  • Headlights required at all times; winter tyres mandatory 1 Nov–1 Apr (or when conditions require).
  • Mountain roads can be slow; allow extra time, especially in winter and peak summer.
  • Border waits can be long in high season—start early where possible.