Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Day 1: First taste of sea, river and vines

Ease into Sanlúcar by centring yourself between the Guadalquivir, the Atlantic breeze and the cathedral-like bodegas. Today is about understanding why manzanilla underpins everything and how locals move from market to plaza to riverfront as the day unfolds.

• Morning: Wander the Mercado de Abastos as stalls set up; chat to vendors about the catch (ask for acedías in autumn, galeras in spring). Grab a quick bite at a market bar like Bar-Freidor El Pica and learn sizes when ordering (tapa, media ración, ración). Tip: many places open late morning; save your first glass of manzanilla for the aperitivo.
• Midday: Tour a big bodega such as Barbadillo or Hidalgo-La Gitana (book ahead). Taste manzanilla fina, pasada and, if available, en rama; note how the sea-humid microclimate shapes the wine. Lunch tapeo around Plaza del Cabildo: Casa Balbino for tortillitas de camarones, La Gitana for a cooling copa, and Taberna Barbiana for seafood salads; order a media botella on ice for value and pace.
• Afternoon: Siesta or a shaded stroll through Barrio Bajo, then slip into Taberna der Guerrita’s shop for a focused sherry tasting (pre-book; it’s a local temple for wine lovers). If you prefer something breezier, walk the river promenade towards Bajo de Guía and time your dinner reservation.
• Evening: Sunset meal on the Bajo de Guía strip (Casa Bigote, Poma or Joselito Huerta): start with langostinos cocidos and don’t skip sucking the head coral. Follow with pescado a la sal or a guiso marinero and a media botella of icy manzanilla in a catavino; reservations essential in summer and at weekends.

Day 2: Tradition updated in Barrio Alto

Today blends old and new: boutique bodegas, market-to-table freshness and a modern Sanluqueño kitchen. You’ll taste how single-vineyard ideas and contemporary technique still orbit around the same core products.

• Morning: Coffee in Barrio Alto, then a pre-booked visit to a smaller house (Delgado Zuleta or Bodegas Alonso) to explore older soleras and terroir talk (pagos like Miraflores/Callejuela). Ask to compare fino vs manzanilla styles to feel the Sanlúcar difference.
• Midday: Market-to-table lunch: buy coquinas, chipirones or prawns in the Mercado and have La Plaza cook them (c. €3/kg cooking fee). Alternatively, do as locals do and pick up a paper cone from a freiduría (Ramona or Miracielo) for a riverside picnic; fried fish here is light and clean when oil is hot.
• Afternoon: Settle into Trasiego for a curated glass list and a compare-and-contrast flight (fina vs pasada vs amontillado), with inventive small plates. Seasonal note: almadraba tuna shines late spring–early summer; ask where it’s from and which cut is on.
• Evening: Book El Espejo for a contemporary take (Bib Gourmand-level value): think atún tartar with ajo blanco or corvina in citrus sauce, paired to sherry by the glass. If you’re tuna-obsessed, Doña Calma or Restaurante Argüeso lean into bluefin (excellent raw cuts and Japanese touches).

Day 3: Local rhythms and long, lazy meals

Your final day follows the Sanluqueño cadence: fresh fish at dawn, a long rice lunch, time by the water, and a farewell tapeo that hits the city’s greatest hits. Add seasonal festivities if you’re here for the Feria de la Manzanilla (late May/early June) or the August beach horse races.

• Morning: Early birds can peek at the fish auctions in the Port of Bonanza (check visiting rules/times), then back to town for churros or tostada before a gentle walk along the river. Pop into a despacho de vinos to eye up bottles to take home (en rama releases often appear in spring and autumn).
• Midday: Settle in for an unhurried rice at Bajo de Guía: arroz con langostinos at Casa Bigote or an arroz caldoso elsewhere; share starters and a media botella on ice. Seasonal tip: langostinos peak in summer (prices can rise with demand), while winter invites heartier guisos marineros.
• Afternoon: Beach time on Las Piletas/Calzada; in August, the Carreras de Caballos transform the sands—buy race tickets early and book meals well ahead. Not racing season? Browse for navazo-grown tomatoes and potatoes at greengrocers; the salty-sweet flavour is a hallmark of Sanlúcar.
• Evening: Farewell tapeo loop around Plaza del Cabildo: one stop for papas aliñás, another for ensaladilla, and back to Casa Balbino for a last, crisp tortillita. Stand at the bar, order directly, and let the barman chalk your tab; round off with a final copa of manzanilla pasada and toast the Doñana breeze.

By Air

• Jerez Airport (XRY): approx. 35–40 km; 30–40 min by car/taxi. Cercanías C-1 train from the airport to Jerez station, then bus/taxi to Sanlúcar (bus 30–45 min).
• Seville Airport (SVQ): approx. 120 km; 1 h 20–1 h 40 by car. Airport bus to Sevilla Santa Justa (35–40 min), then train to Jerez (55–65 min) and bus/taxi onward.
• Málaga (AGP): approx. 230–250 km; 2 h 30–3 h by car. Rail via Málaga María Zambrano to Sevilla/Cádiz, then to Jerez and bus/taxi.
• Gibraltar (GIB): approx. 140 km; 2–2 h 15 by car. Bus options via Algeciras/Jerez.

By Train

• No railway station in Sanlúcar. Nearest RENFE stations: Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María, and Cádiz.
• From Sevilla Santa Justa: Media Distancia to Jerez (~55–65 min) or Cádiz (~1 h 45–2 h).
• From Madrid: Alvia to Jerez/Cádiz (~4–5 h).
• Last leg to Sanlúcar by bus or taxi: Jerez–Sanlúcar 25–30 km (30–40 min), El Puerto–Sanlúcar ~32 km (40–50 min), Cádiz–Sanlúcar ~50–60 km (60–90 min depending on route).

By Bus

• Sanlúcar de Barrameda has a central bus station (Estación de Autobuses) near the centre.
• Frequent regional services connect Sanlúcar with:
  • Jerez de la Frontera: 30–45 min
  • El Puerto de Santa María: 50–70 min
  • Cádiz: 75–95 min
  • Sevilla (Prado/San Bernardo): 1 h 45–2 h 15
• Services are more frequent on weekdays; check late evening and Sunday timetables in advance.

By Car

• From Jerez: A-480 to Sanlúcar (~30 min).
• From Sevilla: AP-4/A-4 to Jerez, then A-480 (1 h 15–1 h 30).
• From Cádiz: via A-4/Jerez then A-480, or coastal A-491 via Rota/Chipiona (45–70 min).
• Parking is tight in peak summer, especially around the historic centre and Bajo de Guía.