Rijeka

Day 1: Harbour to hilltop – first look at Rijeka

Start with Rijeka’s daily rhythms: market chatter, sea air, and the city’s proud working-port backdrop. Then climb to its most iconic perch for the golden-hour reveal of Kvarner Bay.

• Morning: Amble the Korzo, then dive into the Central Market complex; wander the Art Nouveau fish hall while it’s buzzing (best before 10:00). Grab a light bite from a bakery or a slice of burek and a coffee, then stroll to the waterfront to orient yourself.
• Midday: Walk Molo Longo (1.7 km each way) for cinematic views back to the city and its cranes; on days with a bura, expect crystal-clear vistas but strong gusts—bring a windproof layer. Double back for marenda at a locals’ spot such as Mornar or Na Kantunu (11:00–14:00) and ask for crni rižot, fried sardines, or Adriatic squid (be sure to request Jadranske lignje).
• Afternoon: Tackle the Petar Kružić Stairway (561 steps) to Trsat; pause at the votive chapels as the bay unfurls beneath you. If steps aren’t your thing, take city bus 2; reward yourself with a coffee inside Trsat Castle and, if open, pay the small fee to climb the tower for the topmost view.
• Evening: Linger for sunset at Trsat as Učka mountain silhouettes; dine nearby at Konoba Tarsa for hearty local fare and Žlahtina from Krk. In summer, check for Ljeto na Gradini events at the castle; otherwise, finish with a night stroll partway along Molo Longo to see the illuminated port cranes.

Day 2: River green, neighbourhood views and alternative culture

Explore Rijeka’s softer side along the Rječina, then its contemplative hill views and gritty-cool music heritage. Pace the day with a proper marenda and an easy evening of live sounds or craft brews.

• Morning: Walk the Rječina canyon path from the centre upstream to old mills and lush banks—sturdy shoes recommended; after rain, surfaces can be slick. If the weather turns, swap to a park loop (Park Nikola Hosta) or a museum hour in the Benčić complex.
• Midday: Join the marenda ritual: look for chalkboard daily menus and order žgvacet with fuži, maneštra or a fish special; a spritzer (gemišt) is the classic pairing. For a modern, market-driven option, try Hidden Wine Bistro (book ahead; menus change with the day’s catch).
• Afternoon: Ride or walk up to Kozala Cemetery and its cypress-framed terraces for tranquil bay panoramas; it’s a favourite local vidikovac. Clear post-bura air gives the sharpest photos; with a jugo, expect moodier, hazier scenes—both are beautiful.
• Evening: Tap Rijeka’s alternative core: check listings for Palach or Pogon Kulture (rock, indie, DJ nights). Prefer low-key? Settle into King’s Caff Food Pub for craft beer and elevated pub grub, then wander the Korzo; in Carnival season (Jan–Feb), duck into the harbour tent parties and join the maškare—layers under your costume are wise.

Day 3: Big panoramas and coastal flavours

Cap the trip with a grand regional viewpoint, then a seafood-focused seaside lunch, and an easy glide back into Rijeka’s contemporary culture. Time dinner to sunset for a final glow over Kvarner.

• Morning: Drive 30–40 minutes to Učka Nature Park and walk the short trail to Vojak Tower for a 360° sweep over Kvarner, Istria and, on clear days, distant Alps—bring layers; winds can bite. No car? Head instead to Veli Vrh above Grobnik for a lofty city-and-bay look (best with a taxi or hire car).
• Midday: Continue to Volosko (by Opatija) for lunch on the waterfront—book ahead at Plavi Podrum or Le Mandrać for Kvarner scampi or simply grilled fish by weight. Staying in town? Na Kantunu near the market excels at seafood risottos and pastas without leaving the centre.
• Afternoon: Return to Rijeka for a coastal pause: in warm months, swim at Kantrida or Pećine; cooler days suit a wander through Exportdrvo’s vast industrial hall (check what’s on) and the Benčić cultural quarter for exhibitions and coffee. If you missed it earlier, the University campus on Trsat offers wide terraces with superb free views.
• Evening: Splurge at Nebo (Hilton Costabella) for a tasting menu that riffs on local flavours—book well in advance and arrive before sunset to watch the coastline fade to night. Budget-friendly alternative: pizza and a drink at Boonker on the pier, then a final amble along Molo Longo to say goodbye to the Giants of the Port. Seasonal note: summer brings Rijeka Summer Nights and castle concerts; in late summer/early autumn, look for Porto Etno; on Shrove Tuesday, the burning of the Pust closes Carnival with spectacle on the waterfront.

By Air

• Rijeka Airport (RJK) on Krk island: 25–30 km from the centre; 30–40 minutes by car. Seasonal flights dominate. A shuttle bus runs to/from the city centre timed to flights.
• Pula (PUY): ~105 km; 1.5–2 hours by car via the Učka Tunnel. Useful for additional European connections.
• Zagreb (ZAG): ~180 km; about 2–2.5 hours by car. Frequent direct buses to Rijeka; good long-haul and year‑round European links.
• Ljubljana (LJU): ~135 km; 2–2.5 hours by car. Some bus links.
• Trieste (TRS): ~115 km; 1.5–2 hours by car; bus options available.
• Venice Marco Polo (VCE): ~210 km; 3–3.5 hours by car; seasonal bus connections.
• Zadar (ZAD): ~230 km; ~3.5–4 hours by car.

By Train

• Main station: Rijeka Glavni kolodvor (west of the centre, near the port).
• Key route: Rijeka–Zagreb (several daily services; typically around 4–5 hours). Trains are slower than buses on this corridor.
• International: Direct services are limited; seasonal summer night trains from Central Europe (e.g., RegioJet from Prague/Brno/Bratislava) often operate to Rijeka.

By Bus

• Main bus station: Autobusni kolodvor Rijeka (Trg Žabica), by the harbour.
• Frequent, fast links:
  • Zagreb: 2–3 hours via the A6 motorway (Arriva/Autotrans, FlixBus and others).
  • Ljubljana: 2–2.5 hours (direct services most days).
  • Trieste: 1–1.5 hours.
  • Pula/Opatija/Istria: 1–2.5 hours depending on route.
  • Zadar: 4–5 hours; Split: 6–7 hours; Dubrovnik: 9–10 hours.
• Buses also connect Rijeka with Krk, Cres, Rab and Lošinj (via bridges/ferries).

By Car

• From Zagreb: A6 motorway over Gorski Kotar; ~2–2.5 hours. Tolls apply.
• From Istria: A8/A9 (“Istrian Y”) through the Učka Tunnel; Pula–Rijeka ~1.5–2 hours. Tunnel toll applies.
• From Slovenia/Italy: E61 via Rupa/Kozina or via Trieste; 1.5–2.5 hours from Ljubljana/Trieste. Check border/vignette rules (Slovenia uses vignettes; Croatia uses tolls).
• Notes: Parking in the centre is mostly paid zones and garages. The Krk Bridge (no toll) can close to high-sided vehicles during strong bura winds.

By Ferry/Boat

• Terminals: Rijeka Ferry Port (Gat Karoline Riječke/Jadrolinija terminal) in the city centre.
• Services: Year‑round and seasonal catamarans/ferries to Kvarner islands (Cres, Lošinj, Rab, Krk) operated mainly by Jadrolinija and Krilo. Timetables vary by season; advance booking is advised in summer.