Rethymno

Day 1: Old Town, Fortezza and harbour

Rethymno’s historic core is a living museum where Venetian elegance meets Ottoman grace. Start early to enjoy the cool air, jasmine-scented lanes and locals opening their shops before the midday rush.

• Morning: Walk up to the Fortezza as the gates open; give it 2 hours for the Ibrahim Han Mosque, the Rector’s Residence and the ramparts’ sea-and-mountain views. Wear sturdy shoes and a hat; in high summer, this is the coolest and quietest time to visit.
• Midday: Drift back down via Porta Guora to the Rimondi Fountain and Venetian Loggia, then pause for a leisurely courtyard lunch (book ahead in peak season). Skip eating on the waterfront today; one or two streets inland is better value and calmer.
• Afternoon: Meander the sokakia: Odos Vernardou for the hand‑stretched phyllo at Giorgos Hatziparaschos, Odos Palaiologou for Ottoman wooden balconies, and the quieter residential maze west of the fountain. Detour to the Kara Musa Pasha Mosque courtyard and end with a short harbour stroll and lighthouse photos.
• Evening: Join the local volta along the seafront before dinner in the student‑favoured rakadika near Plateia Iroon Politechniou (expect raki and small meze). Seasonal note: July–August often brings Renaissance Festival performances inside the Fortezza; November–March nights are mellow and more local.

Day 2: Eleutherna and Armeni – archaeology in the landscape

Today blends a best‑in‑class site museum with evocative ruins among oaks. A car makes the logistics easy and lets you linger where it’s most atmospheric.

• Morning: Drive 45 minutes to the Museum of Ancient Eleutherna; start here to frame the story, then explore the archaeological park (Orthi Petra necropolis and the early Christian basilicas). Paths are uneven; bring water, sun protection and check the Odysseus portal for seasonal hours.
• Midday: Lunch at a village taverna near Eleutherna and enjoy an unhurried break (service is delightfully slow by design). Spring and autumn bring wildflowers and soft light; in summer, aim for shade and a longer siesta.
• Afternoon: Return towards town and stop at the Armeni Late Minoan cemetery in the valonia oak forest (torch/phone light helps peering into chamber tombs). Move calmly and respectfully—this is a burial ground—and ask the site guard for pointers to the most significant tombs.
• Evening: Back in Rethymno, choose a back‑street taverna over the harbour for dinner and accept the customary raki with a “Yamas!”. If you still have energy, wander the lanes as the heat lifts; this is when the Old Town looks and feels most magical.

Day 3: Amari Valley and mountain views – villas, villages and lyra

Head inland for a slower day of Minoan mysteries, grand valley views and village hospitality. Roads are winding but scenic; allow time and enjoy the journey.

• Morning: Drive into the Amari Valley to the Minoan site of Monastiraki (you’ll view much from the perimeter; the appeal is the setting and sense of discovery). Continue through fertile hamlets under Psiloritis, stopping for photos and short leg‑stretches.
• Midday: Settle into a village taverna for a long lunch—grilled meats, garden salads and local cheese—then a coffee in the kafeneio. In high summer, make this your longest, shadiest pause of the day.
• Afternoon: Stop at Thronos (ancient Syvritos); ask locally to see the Roman mosaic inside the church and take a brief wander over the acropolis ridge. Hikers in spring/autumn can instead swap this slot for a 1.5–2 hour ascent to the Vrysinas peak sanctuary (start from Roustika/Kapediana; take water and sturdy footwear).
• Evening: Back in town, drop by the Stagakis Cretan lyra workshop to see instruments being made, then round off with a casual meze supper at a rakadiko. Tip: park by the marina or western car parks and walk—driving in the Old Town is restricted and stressful.

By Air

• Chania Airport (CHQ, “Ioannis Daskalogiannis”), ~65 km west. Drive 1–1 h 15 via VOAK/EO90. Airport bus to Chania KTEL station (~30–40 min), then Chania–Rethymno coach (~1–1 h 15). Limited direct airport–Rethymno coaches in high season.
• Heraklion Airport (HER, “Nikos Kazantzakis”), ~80 km east. Drive 1 h 15–1 h 30. Airport bus to Heraklion KTEL Bus Station A (10–20 min), then Heraklion–Rethymno coach (~1 h 30).
• Flights: year‑round from Athens to both airports; seasonal direct flights from many European cities.

By Ferry

• To Heraklion Port: nightly ferries from Piraeus (Athens), ~9–10 h. Then coach to Rethymno (~1 h 30) or drive (~1 h 15–1 h 30).
• To Chania (Souda) Port: nightly ferries from Piraeus, ~9–10 h. Then coach or drive to Rethymno (~1–1 h 15).
• Cyclades links are mainly to Heraklion; occasional summer fast ferries may use Rethymno—check current schedules.

By Bus

• Intercity operator: KTEL. Rethymno KTEL Station is just west of the Old Town (5–10 minutes’ walk from Porta Guora).
• Chania–Rethymno: every 30–60 minutes (daytime), ~1–1 h 15.
• Heraklion–Rethymno: every 30–60 minutes (daytime), ~1 h 30–1 h 45.
• From the airports: connect via the city bus to the KTEL station in Chania or Heraklion; limited direct airport–Rethymno services in summer.

By Car

• Main route: VOAK/EO90 (Northern Highway) links Chania–Rethymno–Heraklion.
• Typical drives: Chania Airport–Rethymno ~1 h 10; Souda Port–Rethymno ~1 h; Heraklion Airport/Port–Rethymno 1 h 15–1 h 30.
• No tolls on Crete; allow extra time for roadworks and summer traffic. Old Town is largely pedestrianised—use marina or edge‑of‑centre car parks.

By Train

• No rail network on Crete. Use ferry/air plus coach or car.

By Taxi/Private transfer

• Metered taxis and pre‑booked shuttles from both airports/ports operate year‑round; pre‑book in high season. Journey times as per driving times above.