Regensburg

Day 1: First impressions of the UNESCO Old Town

Regensburg’s medieval core is compact and best explored on foot—cobbles demand sturdy shoes. Start with the headline sights, then follow the river to see why traders once called this “Italy’s most northern city”.

• Morning: Trace the city’s Roman roots at the Porta Praetoria, then step into the soaring Gothic of St Peter’s Cathedral to admire its medieval stained glass; if it’s a service day, slip in quietly for a few minutes to hear the Domspatzen choir rehearse. Tip: look up above modern shopfronts for oriel windows and fresco fragments.
• Midday: Join a guided tour at the Old Town Hall to see the Reichssaal and the chilling Fragstatt cells; book ahead in peak season. Lunch riverside at the Historische Wurstkuchl—order “Sechs auf Kraut” and try the local sweet mustard; bring cash.
• Afternoon: Stroll across the Stone Bridge to Stadtamhof, pausing by the Bruckmandl for skyline photos; in warm weather continue to the Danube islands (Jahninsel/Unterer Wöhrd) for a lazy riverside hour. Coffee and cake in Stadtamhof offer a quieter feel than the cathedral side; Altstadtbus A/C helps if the cobbles tire you.
• Evening: Wander via Haidplatz and Neupfarrplatz for people‑watching before dinner—traditional beer and fare at Kneitinger or a modern twist near Bismarckplatz. Seasonal note: in Advent, the Neupfarrplatz Christmas market glows till 20:00–21:00; in July, the Bavarian Jazz Weekend fills squares with free sets at blue hour.

Day 2: Courtyards, towers and a princely palace

Today is about Regensburg’s layered fabric: Romanesque portals, patrician “medieval skyscrapers”, and one of Germany’s grandest urban palaces. Keep your pace unhurried and dip into courtyards whenever you spot an open passage.

• Morning: If it’s Saturday, shop with locals at the Alter Kornmarkt weekly market (07:00–13:00): greet vendors with “Grüß Gott”, don’t handle produce—point and let them pick. Not a Saturday? Head to the Schottenkirche St Jakob to decode its enigmatic Romanesque Schottenportal, then coffee on a quiet Gasse.
• Midday: Explore St Emmeram’s Basilica, then join a tour of the Thurn und Taxis Palace next door; tours sell out on rainy days, so arrive early. Lunch nearby or in the palace café; in Advent, the Lucrezia artisan market at Haidplatz/Kohlenmarkt is perfect for handmade gifts.
• Afternoon: Follow a patrician‑tower trail: Goldener Turm (Wahlenstraße) and Baumburger Turm (Watmarkt), detouring into hidden courtyards off Rathausplatz. Science‑minded? Pop into the Kepler‑Gedächtnishaus; history buffs can add the Roman wall remains at Dachauplatz.
• Evening: Dine across the bridge at the Spitalgarten for cathedral views in summer; in Advent, its cosy Adventsmarkt has bonfires and punch (remember the Pfand mug deposit). Respect Ruhezeit after 22:00 in residential alleys as you wander back along the river.

Day 3: Museums, river life and seasonal favourites

Round out your visit with the Danube waterfront, a museum fix, and time to simply get lost in the Gassen. Tailor the day to the season—there’s always a market, concert, or fair to fold in.

• Morning: Start at the Museum of Bavarian History on the Donaumarkt to ground the city in its wider story; the riverfront plaza is great for coffee after. If the sun’s out, cross to Jahninsel for relaxed views back to the skyline and a short wander under willows.
• Midday: Take a short Danube cruise (spring–autumn) or walk the full span of the Stone Bridge for changing perspectives; lunch in Stadtamhof on a shady terrace. Families can add a playground stop on the islands; photographers get crisp reflections on calm days.
• Afternoon: Dive beneath Neupfarrplatz at the Document Neupfarrplatz to see the former Jewish quarter’s foundations, then admire the gilded Baroque of the Alte Kapelle. Seasonal swaps: on Fridays (year‑round) browse the organic Bio‑Donaumarkt from mid‑afternoon; in May or late Aug/early Sep, ride the Ferris wheel and raise a Maß at the Regensburger Dult (use buses; expect Pfand on mugs).
• Evening: Choose your finale: a pub‑to‑bar amble through the Altstadt (try a Helles or a wheat beer), or a concert in the cathedral/theatre if the programme fits. Winter tip: save your last night for the Romantic Christmas Market at Thurn und Taxis—buy timed tickets online, dress warmly, and budget for premium food and craft stalls (cash still handy).

By Air

• Munich Airport (MUC) – largest and closest. Direct regional airport express (ÜFEX) to Regensburg Hbf about 1 h 20 min, typically hourly. By car via A92/B15n/A93 about 1 h 10–1 h 30.
• Nuremberg Airport (NUE) – U2 metro to Nürnberg Hbf (≈12 min), then RE/ICE to Regensburg (≈1 h–1 h 20). Total 1 h 30–1 h 50. By car via A3 about 1 h 15–1 h 30.
• Also feasible: Salzburg (SZG) ≈2 h 45–3 h 15 by train (1+ changes), ≈2 h by car; Frankfurt (FRA) ≈3 h–3 h 45 by ICE (1 change), ≈3 h 15–3 h 45 by car.

By Train

• Main station: Regensburg Hauptbahnhof (Hbf), short walk south of the Old Town. The central bus station (ZOB, Albertstraße) is adjacent for city/regional buses and long‑distance coaches.
• Key direct/fast connections (typical journey times):
  • Munich: ICE/RE about 1 h 15–1 h 30; at least hourly.
  • Nuremberg: RE/IC about 1 h 05–1 h 30; at least hourly.
  • Passau: RE about 1 h 15–1 h 30.
  • Berlin: ICE with 1 change (usually Nürnberg) about 4 h 30–5 h 15.
  • Frankfurt (Main): ICE with 1 change (Nürnberg/Würzburg) about 3 h 15–3 h 45.
  • Prague: about 4 h–4 h 30 with 1 change (often Schwandorf/Pilsen).
  • Vienna: about 3 h 45–4 h 30 with 1 change (Passau/Linz).
• Operator: Deutsche Bahn (DB) plus regional services; tickets via bahn.com or DB Navigator app.

By Car

• Motorways: A3 (west–east: Frankfurt–Nuremberg–Regensburg–Passau) and A93 (north–south: Hof/Weiden–Regensburg–Holledau) meet at Regensburg.
• Typical drive times (traffic dependent): Munich 1 h 15–1 h 30; Nuremberg 1 h 15–1 h 30; Passau 1 h 15–1 h 30; Prague 3 h–3 h 30; Vienna 3 h 30–4 h.
• Note: The Old Town is largely pedestrianised. Use edge‑of‑centre car parks (e.g., Dachauplatz, Petersweg, Arnulfsplatz) or Park & Ride sites with frequent buses.