Portovenere

Day 1: Arrival by sea and sunset at the edge of the world

Slip into Portovenere the way it was meant to be seen: by boat, with the colourful seafront rising before you and the promontory crowned by the church. Take it slowly today—your goal is to feel the rhythm of the village and catch its first golden-hour magic.

• Morning: Arrive by ferry from La Spezia or Lerici (avoid driving; ZTL is strict) and drop your bags at your hotel. Enjoy a quick espresso on Calata Doria and switch to flat, grippy shoes—the cobbles and steps demand them.
• Midday: Wander the carruggi behind the seafront, passing under the medieval gate and pausing at tiny courtyards and sea-view slits between tower-houses. Lunch on trofie al pesto or stuffed mussels at a back-street trattoria to dodge waterfront mark-ups.
• Afternoon: Meander uphill to the cliffside cemetery for a quiet, contemplative view back to the church and the islands—one of the most romantic, uncrowded vantage points. Pick up focaccia and a half-bottle of local Vermentino for later.
• Evening: Climb to the church of San Pietro for sunset as waves crash below; linger as the new night lighting brings out the stone textures. Join the passeggiata along Calata Doria, take an aperitivo, then a leisurely candlelit dinner—Portovenere is at its most intimate after the day-trippers depart.

Day 2: Islands, wild coves and a sunset by boat

Today is about the elements—wind, salt and stone—balanced with big views. You’ll split time between wild Palmaria Island and the medieval fortress above the village, then take to the water for the most romantic light of the day.

• Morning: Catch the first ferry to Palmaria (10 minutes). Hike the quieter western trails facing the open sea; bring water, sun protection and proper shoes. Find a rocky perch for a simple picnic (focaccia + cheese) with Portovenere framed across Le Bocche. (In winter, keep to lower paths and watch for slippery rock.)
• Midday: Swim from a sheltered cove if the sea is calm, or explore abandoned coastal fortifications. Return to the village early afternoon before the heat and crowds peak in high summer.
• Afternoon: Climb to Doria Castle; the ramparts deliver sweeping views of the harbour and the islands—ideal for photos in the softer light. Reward yourselves with a gelato on the way down.
• Evening: Take a small-boat tour through Le Bocche and around Byron’s Grotto for sunset; many skippers include an on-board aperitivo (private charters often €80–€120/hour). If seas are rough, substitute a harbourfront dinner and a moonlit stroll back to San Pietro.

Day 3: Poets, rituals and night-time magic

Lean into Portovenere’s literary soul and slow rituals. This is your day for unhurried pleasures—stories, flavours and the glow of torchlight if you’re here in August.

• Morning: Visit Byron’s Grotto on foot before 9:00 to enjoy the atmosphere in peace (the cave is partly collapsed, but the setting is dramatic). Read a few lines of Byron or Shelley by the water, then trace the arches and terraces around the church.
• Midday: Join a pesto-making or Ligurian cooking class geared to couples, or opt for a long lunch of seafood on the seafront with a glass of local Vermentino. In cooler months, embrace a cosy indoor table and storm-watching.
• Afternoon: Amble the upper lanes and towards the cliff path that leads out of town; pause often—that’s the local way. Pick up a small ceramic or print from a local workshop as a memento.
• Evening: Choose your finale. On most nights, sip a final aperitivo on Calata Doria and watch the village lights shimmer. On 17 August, join the Madonna Bianca procession as thousands of torches light the cliffs and church—arrive early and secure a respectful viewing spot; on 24 June, look for San Giovanni festivities and small regattas. In shoulder seasons (late April–May, September–early October), sunsets are glorious and crowds thinner—linger until the last ferry leaves just to feel the hush.

By Air

• Pisa (PSA) – Pisa Galileo Galilei Airport: approx. 85 km; 1 h 15 min by car. Train via PisaMover (5 min) to Pisa Centrale, then to La Spezia (about 1–1 h 20 min); total to Portovenere 1 h 30–1 h 45 plus bus/taxi.
• Genoa (GOA) – Cristoforo Colombo Airport: approx. 115 km; 1 h 30–1 h 45 by car. Shuttle to Genova Piazza Principe, then train to La Spezia (1 h 20–1 h 45).
• Florence (FLR) – Amerigo Vespucci Airport: approx. 160 km; about 2–2 h 15 by car. Tram T2 to Firenze SMN (20 min), then train to La Spezia (2–2 h 30).
• Other hubs: Bologna (BLQ) ~2 h 30 by car; Milan (LIN/MXP) ~3–3 h 30 by car; trains typically 3–4 h to La Spezia.

By Train

• No railway station in Portovenere. Nearest major station: La Spezia Centrale.
• Typical journey times to La Spezia Centrale:
  • Pisa Centrale: 1–1 h 20 (Regionale/IC).
  • Florence SMN: 2–2 h 30 (usually via Pisa/Viareggio).
  • Genoa (Piazza Principe/Brignole): 1 h 20–1 h 45.
  • Milan (Centrale): 3–3 h 30 (IC/Freccia + IC).
  • Rome (Termini/Tiburtina): 3 h 30–4 h 30 (via Pisa).
• From La Spezia Centrale to Portovenere: ATC bus (line P) 25–35 min; taxi 20–25 min; seasonal ferry ~30 min.

By Bus

• ATC Esercizio line P runs La Spezia–Portovenere. Departures from outside La Spezia Centrale and Piazza Chiodo; 25–35 min depending on traffic. Buy tickets in advance (kiosks/app) and validate on boarding.

By Ferry/Boat

• Seasonal services (roughly March–November, weather permitting) by Consorzio Marittimo from La Spezia (~30 min), Lerici (~30–40 min), and Cinque Terre/Levanto (45–90 min). Useful both as transit and for scenic arrivals.

By Car

• Portovenere’s historic centre is a ZTL (limited traffic zone); no visitor driving inside. Use paid car parks at the village entrance; spaces fill quickly in peak season.
• Approximate driving times: from Pisa 1 h 15 min; Genoa 1 h 30–1 h 45; Florence ~2–2 h 15; Milan ~3–3 h 30; Bologna ~2 h 30.
• Main routes: A12/E80 (exit La Spezia/S. Stefano Magra) then follow signs via SP530 to Portovenere.