Picos de Europa

Day 1: Covadonga Lakes and the Ordiales balcony Begin in Cangas de Onís and head up to the high meadows of the Western Massif. Expect broad views, grazing cattle, and classic limestone scenery; in peak season private cars are restricted, so use the shuttle buses up to the lakes.

• Morning: Catch the first bus to the Covadonga Lakes and walk the lakes circuit to warm up, then join the waymarked path toward Vegarredonda. Start early to avoid both crowds and afternoon mist rolling in from the coast.
• Midday: Pause at Refugio Vegarredonda for a coffee or simple lunch; carry cash and a bag liner if you’re tempted by a future overnight stay. Water is scarce above the meadows—begin the day with 2–3 litres per person.
• Afternoon: Continue to Mirador de Ordiales for an immense cliff-edge balcony over the Angón valley; return the same way. If weather closes in or there’s late-spring snow, opt instead for the gentler Vega de Ario trail from Lake Ercina.
• Evening: Bus back to Cangas de Onís, stroll the Roman bridge, and try cider with a bocadillo or local Gamonéu cheese. Check the next day’s forecast carefully—fog and wind can change plans fast.

Day 2: Cares Gorge and the village of Bulnes Today is the park’s most iconic traverse: a dramatic ledge-path cut into the canyon wall between Asturias and León. It’s long but not steep; exposure and heat are the main challenges.

• Morning: Start at Poncebos and enter the Cares Gorge toward Caín; expect 3.5–4 hours one way at a steady pace. Wear sturdy boots—limestone is sharp and slippery when damp—and take sun protection.
• Midday: Picnic near one of the tunnels or have a simple meal in Caín. If you’ve arranged a taxi over the mountain roads back to Poncebos, confirm pickup times; otherwise turn around for an out‑and‑back.
• Afternoon: Back at Poncebos, climb the historic path through Canal del Texu to the roadless village of Bulnes (or ride the funicular if legs are done or weather turns). Respect livestock and give any mastiff guardian dogs a wide berth.
• Evening: Overnight in Arenas de Cabrales or Sotres; sample Cabrales cheese and plan a higher route for tomorrow if conditions are stable. Shoulder seasons are ideal—cooler temps, fewer people, and clearer air.

Day 3: Fuente Dé and the Áliva pastures Shift to Cantabria for easy high-mountain access via the Fuente Dé cable car. The upper station opens onto a lunar landscape with big Urrieles views and mellow tracks across alpine pasture.

• Morning: Take the first cable car up (it can close for high winds—check before driving). Walk the balcony path toward Puertos de Áliva, keeping an eye on waymarks and cairns where paths braid over bare rock.
• Midday: Lunch at Hotel Áliva (seasonal) or picnic by the pastures; refill at a signed fuente if flowing, but don’t rely on it late summer. In clear weather, confident parties can add a short out‑and‑back spur for higher viewpoints; avoid snow patches in spring without axe/crampons.
• Afternoon: Descend on the gentle track back to Fuente Dé or continue to Espinama and taxi back. Wet-weather fallback: beech‑forest rambles in the Liébana valley or a cultural stop at Santo Toribio de Liébana.
• Evening: Recover in Potes with cocido lebaniego and a stroll through the old quarter. Share your route and return time with your accommodation—mobile coverage is patchy, and 112 is the emergency number if needed.

By Air

• Santander (SDR): closest and most convenient. Driving times: Potes ~1 h 30 min (A-8 > N-621), Arenas de Cabrales ~1 h 30–1 h 45 min (A-8 > AS-114), Cangas de Onís ~1 h 30–1 h 45 min (A-8 > N-634/N-625). Regular buses from Santander bus station to Potes and to Asturias (for Cangas).
• Asturias/Oviedo (OVD): good for the western/central sectors. Driving times: Cangas de Onís ~1 h 30–1 h 45 min, Arenas de Cabrales ~~2 h, Potes ~2–2 h 30 min. Airport bus to Oviedo, then ALSA buses to Cangas/Arenas.
• Bilbao (BIO): wider flight network. Driving times: Arenas de Cabrales ~2 h, Potes ~2 h 15–2 h 30 min, Cangas de Onís ~2 h 15–2 h 30 min. Bus links typically via Santander.
• León (LEN): limited flights. Driving times: Posada de Valdeón ~2 h, Potes ~~2 h, Cangas de Onís ~2 h 30–3 h.

By Train

• Long‑distance Renfe services to the nearest hubs, then continue by bus/car:
  • Madrid to Santander (~4 h), León (~2 h), Oviedo (~3–3.5 h); Barcelona to Santander/Oviedo (longer, often with changes).
• Coastal narrow‑gauge (Renfe FEVE) connects Bilbao–Santander–Oviedo/Gijón (slow but scenic). For the park, alight at Unquera, Llanes or Ribadesella to transfer by bus to Potes, Arenas de Cabrales or Cangas de Onís.
• No rail stations inside the park; final access is by bus or car.

By Bus

• Main operator: ALSA (plus small regional lines). Expect more services in summer and on weekends; check timetables.
  • Santander ↔ Potes (via Desfiladero de la Hermida): ~2 h, several daily.
  • Oviedo/Gijón ↔ Cangas de Onís: ~1 h 30–2 h, frequent daily.
  • Llanes/Unquera ↔ Arenas de Cabrales (some services extend to Poncebos seasonally): ~45–70 min.
  • León ↔ Riaño (for Valdeón): limited; onward taxi often required to Posada/Caldevilla/Caín.
  • Bilbao/other cities: usually via Santander or Oviedo with a change.
• Seasonal shuttles:
  • Covadonga Lakes bus from Cangas de Onís/Covadonga on peak/holiday dates (private cars restricted).
  • Potes ↔ Fuente Dé bus operates seasonally; otherwise drive.

By Car

• Most flexible option; roads are narrow and winding in gorges—allow extra time.
  • To Potes/Fuente Dé: A‑8 to Unquera > N‑621 (Desfiladero de la Hermida) > CA‑185 to Fuente Dé.
  • To Arenas de Cabrales/Poncebos (Cares Gorge): A‑8 to Unquera/Panes > AS‑114; AS‑264 to Poncebos.
  • To Cangas de Onís/Covadonga/Lakes: A‑8 to Ribadesella/Arriondas > N‑625/AS‑114; AS‑262 to Covadonga; CO‑4 to the lakes (seasonally restricted).
• Typical drives: Santander ~1.5 h; Oviedo ~1.5–2 h; Bilbao ~2–2.5 h; Madrid 4.5–5.5 h (depending on sector).
• Parking is limited at Poncebos, Fuente Dé and the Covadonga Lakes—arrive early or use shuttles.
• Car hire available at all listed airports and major cities.