Lyon

Day 1: Old Lyon, Presqu’île and Fourvière panoramas

Ease into Lyon’s UNESCO-listed core, where Renaissance lanes, hidden passageways and river views set the tone. You’ll end the day on the “hill that prays,” watching the city glow as the sun drops behind Fourvière.

• Morning: Wander Vieux Lyon before the crowds: step into traboules off rue Saint-Jean, visit the cathedral, and grab a praline brioche and coffee on a quiet square (always greet shopkeepers with a polite “Bonjour, Monsieur/Madame”). If it’s raining, swap in the Gadagne museums for local history and puppetry.
• Midday: Cross to the Presqu’île for Place des Terreaux and the Musée des Beaux-Arts garden; have a set lunch at a certified bouchon (book ahead, service is unhurried and service charge is included). On weekends, pick up picnic bits along the Marché Saint-Antoine by the Saône; do not handle produce—point and let the vendor choose.
• Afternoon: Take the funicular (la ficelle) up to Fourvière for the basilica esplanade and Parc des Hauteurs; descend via the Roman theatres if you like archaeology. Seasonal note: in winter the air is crisp and you may spot Mont Blanc; in summer, check if Nuits de Fourvière is on and bring a cushion for those ancient stone seats.
• Evening: Stroll the Berges du Rhône for an apéro at a péniche bar, then dinner at a bouchon on the Presqu’île (look for the “Les Bouchons Lyonnais” plaque). Night view tip: the Passerelle du Palais de Justice perfectly frames Vieux Lyon; in early December, plan around Fête des Lumières crowd control and go on Thursday or Sunday night for thinner crowds.

Day 2: Markets, silk heritage and the creative Croix-Rousse

Today is about taste and texture: Lyon’s markets, the silk-workers’ hill and designer ateliers. Pace it like a local—proper lunch, a riverside pause, then sunset from a hilltop garden.

By Air

• Lyon–Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS), ~25 km east of the centre.
  • Rhônexpress tram: LYS ↔ Lyon Part-Dieu in ~29 minutes; every 15 minutes by day (reduced late evening). Connects to metro/tram network.
  • Train: Occasional TGV/TER from the airport’s “Gare TGV” to Lyon Part-Dieu (≈15–30 minutes), Grenoble, Valence, Paris-CDG and Alpine/Med destinations.
  • Taxi/ride-hail: ~30–45 minutes to central Lyon (longer at peaks).
• Alternative gateways:
  • Geneva (GVA): ~1h50–2h by direct coach; ~2h by train (change at Genève-Cornavin/Bellegarde).
  • Grenoble Alpes–Isère (GNB) and Chambéry (CMF): mainly winter-season flights; ~1–1h30 by road to Lyon.
  • Paris-CDG: direct TGV to Lyon Part-Dieu in ~2 hours.

By Train

• Main stations:
  • Lyon Part-Dieu (primary hub for TGV/TER; metro B, trams).
  • Lyon Perrache (central/Presqu’île; some TGV/TER; metro A; main coach station adjacent).
  • Lyon Saint-Exupéry TGV (at the airport; selected TGV/TER).
• Typical TGV/long-distance times:
  • Paris (Gare de Lyon): ≈1h55–2h10 (TGV InOui/OUIGO).

Lyon delivers big-city culture and flavour with fewer crowds: a UNESCO-listed, food-first city where daily life still feels local.

• Atmosphere: Quiet confidence between two rivers and two hills; walkable Presqu’île, café terraces and apéro on the Berges du Rhône. All the urban richness, without the crush or the price tag.
• Authenticity & value: True bouchons, market rituals at Les Halles Paul Bocuse and Marché Saint‑Antoine, silk‑worker heritage in Croix‑Rousse. Think quenelles and a pot lyonnais of Beaujolais—serious cooking minus the showy bill.
• Culture & festivals: Citywide greats like the Fête des Lumières, Nuits de Fourvière in the Roman theatres, and the Biennale—immersive, well-run, and typically with shorter queues than the headline circuits.
• Neighbourhoods & nature: Vieux Lyon’s traboules, Croix‑Rousse’s studios and street art, bold Confluence waterfront, and sweeping views from Fourvière. Slow afternoons in Parc de la Tête d’Or (free zoo and botanical garden).

If you love cities where history, food and liveability meet, you’ll thrive in Lyon. France’s gastronomic capital blends Renaissance lanes and Roman theatres with cutting‑edge festivals and green riverfronts. It’s ideal for travellers seeking substance and authenticity, with a calmer, more local feel than Paris.

• Foodies: From bouchons and Les Halles Paul Bocuse to inventive bistronomy and street‑food festivals, Lyon serves France’s most exciting flavours in one compact city.
• History lovers: Explore Roman theatres, Renaissance traboules and silk‑weavers’ Croix‑Rousse in a UNESCO World Heritage old town that feels lived‑in, not museum‑like.
• Festival‑goers: Time your trip for Fête des Lumières, Nuits de Fourvière or the Biennales—year‑round headline events that turn the whole city into a stage.
• Scenery seekers: Capture sweeping hilltop views from Fourvière and Croix‑Rousse, riverside sunsets on the Rhône/Saône, and even the Alps on crystal‑clear winter days.
• Active travellers: Cycle the car‑free riverbanks, jog through Parc de la Tête d’Or, and ride funiculars to stair‑free viewpoints across Lyon’s twin hills.
• City‑breakers: Easy access, walkable neighbourhoods and superb‑value dining make Lyon a refined weekend that’s big on culture yet blissfully manageable.

Here are the unmissable highlights of Lyon—experiences that capture its history, gastronomy and soul. Do these first to feel the city like a local.

• Walk the Berges du Rhône and Quais de Saône at sunset for vibrant river life and postcard views of the Hôtel-Dieu.
• Explore Vieux Lyon’s Renaissance lanes and hidden traboules before tucking into an authentic bouchon.
• Visit the Basilica of Notre‑Dame de Fourvière and the Roman theatres for sweeping panoramas and 2,000 years of history.
• Take a tasting tour through Les Halles Paul Bocuse to sample quenelles, charcuterie and a glass from a pot lyonnais.
• Hike the Montée de la Grande‑Côte up to Croix‑Rousse to follow the canuts’ story and enjoy skyline views.

Here are the unmissable highlights of Lyon—experiences that capture its history, gastronomy and soul. Do these first to feel the city like a local.

• Walk the Berges du Rhône and Quais de Saône at sunset for vibrant river life and postcard views of the Hôtel-Dieu.
• Explore Vieux Lyon’s Renaissance lanes and hidden traboules before tucking into an authentic bouchon.
• Visit the Basilica of Notre‑Dame de Fourvière and the Roman theatres for sweeping panoramas and 2,000 years of history.
• Take a tasting tour through Les Halles Paul Bocuse to sample quenelles, charcuterie and a glass from a pot lyonnais.
• Hike the Montée de la Grande‑Côte up to Croix‑Rousse to follow the canuts’ story and enjoy skyline views.

Lyon is France’s gastronomic capital, where centuries-old bouchon traditions meet inventive bistronomie. Expect market-led menus, generous portions, and deep reverence for regional produce and wine. Slow down: browse Les Halles Paul Bocuse, linger at cafés, and toast with a local pot of Beaujolais.

• Quenelle de brochet – Airy pike dumpling, often with rich crayfish sauce (Nantua); best savoured in cosy bouchons with tightly packed tables and lively chatter.
• Salade lyonnaise – Frisée with warm lardons, croutons, and a runny poached egg; a staple of relaxed café lunches and terrace dining.
• Saucisson brioché – Juicy Lyon sausage baked in a buttery brioche; find it at morning markets and family-run bakeries, perfect for a picnic by the river.
• Pot lyonnais of Beaujolais – A 46cl carafe of easy-drinking local red; poured generously in wine bars and bustling bistros for an authentic apéro.

Lyon is France’s gastronomic capital, where centuries-old bouchon traditions meet inventive bistronomie. Expect market-led menus, generous portions, and deep reverence for regional produce and wine. Slow down: browse Les Halles Paul Bocuse, linger at cafés, and toast with a local pot of Beaujolais.

• Quenelle de brochet – Airy pike dumpling, often with rich crayfish sauce (Nantua); best savoured in cosy bouchons with tightly packed tables and lively chatter.
• Salade lyonnaise – Frisée with warm lardons, croutons, and a runny poached egg; a staple of relaxed café lunches and terrace dining.
• Saucisson brioché – Juicy Lyon sausage baked in a buttery brioche; find it at morning markets and family-run bakeries, perfect for a picnic by the river.
• Pot lyonnais of Beaujolais – A 46cl carafe of easy-drinking local red; poured generously in wine bars and bustling bistros for an authentic apéro.

Choosing where to stay in Lyon is about matching the neighbourhood vibe to your trip, not chasing a specific hotel. Each area offers a distinct feel, from medieval lanes to sleek riverfronts. Pick the base that fits how you want to explore, then use the excellent metro, trams and funiculars.

• Presqu’île — Lively, ultra-central and walkable; best for first‑timers who want shopping, bouchons and nightlife on the doorstep, with easy access to metros A/D and riverbanks.
• Vieux Lyon — Atmospheric Renaissance lanes and traboules; ideal for history lovers and families seeking charm, though it’s cobbled, busy in the evening and has stairs.
• Croix‑Rousse — Bohemian “village on a hill” with markets, street art and big views; suits creatives and longer stays, but expect slopes, steps and a laid‑back pace.
• 6th (Brotteaux & Tête d’Or) — Elegant, quiet and residential by the huge park; great for runners and families wanting calm, smart cafés and good bus/metro links.

Choosing where to stay in Lyon is about matching the neighbourhood vibe to your trip, not chasing a specific hotel. Each area offers a distinct feel, from medieval lanes to sleek riverfronts. Pick the base that fits how you want to explore, then use the excellent metro, trams and funiculars.

• Presqu’île — Lively, ultra-central and walkable; best for first‑timers who want shopping, bouchons and nightlife on the doorstep, with easy access to metros A/D and riverbanks.
• Vieux Lyon — Atmospheric Renaissance lanes and traboules; ideal for history lovers and families seeking charm, though it’s cobbled, busy in the evening and has stairs.
• Croix‑Rousse — Bohemian “village on a hill” with markets, street art and big views; suits creatives and longer stays, but expect slopes, steps and a laid‑back pace.
• 6th (Brotteaux & Tête d’Or) — Elegant, quiet and residential by the huge park; great for runners and families wanting calm, smart cafés and good bus/metro links.

Travel to and around Lyon is straightforward thanks to an excellent public transport network and a compact, walkable centre. A few local quirks—festival timing, traditional lunch hours, and the city’s hills—are worth noting to keep plans smooth.

• Affordability: Lyon is good value by French city standards, with set lunches around €15–22, classic bouchon dinners €28–45, coffee €2–3, and mid‑range hotels typically €110–180 per night.
• Transport: The Presqu’île, Vieux Lyon and much of Croix‑Rousse are walkable; the TCL metro/tram/bus/funicular network is fast, bike‑share (Vélo’v) is widespread, the Rhônexpress links the airport, and easy day trips run by train to Pérouges, Annecy and Grenoble (a car is handy only for Beaujolais vineyards).
• Language: French is the main language and basic phrases go a long way; English is commonly understood in hotels, museums and many restaurants, less so at markets and old‑school bouchons.
• Safety & comfort: Generally very safe and friendly for families and solo travellers—just watch for pickpockets in crowds and on public transport, wear good shoes for cobbles and hills, and plan for summer heat or winter chill.
• Crowds: Peak times are the Festival of Lights (around 8 December) and the June–July festival season; spring weekends are lively, August is quieter with some closures, and January–February are the calmest—book well ahead for December.

Travel to and around Lyon is straightforward thanks to an excellent public transport network and a compact, walkable centre. A few local quirks—festival timing, traditional lunch hours, and the city’s hills—are worth noting to keep plans smooth.

• Affordability: Lyon is good value by French city standards, with set lunches around €15–22, classic bouchon dinners €28–45, coffee €2–3, and mid‑range hotels typically €110–180 per night.
• Transport: The Presqu’île, Vieux Lyon and much of Croix‑Rousse are walkable; the TCL metro/tram/bus/funicular network is fast, bike‑share (Vélo’v) is widespread, the Rhônexpress links the airport, and easy day trips run by train to Pérouges, Annecy and Grenoble (a car is handy only for Beaujolais vineyards).
• Language: French is the main language and basic phrases go a long way; English is commonly understood in hotels, museums and many restaurants, less so at markets and old‑school bouchons.
• Safety & comfort: Generally very safe and friendly for families and solo travellers—just watch for pickpockets in crowds and on public transport, wear good shoes for cobbles and hills, and plan for summer heat or winter chill.
• Crowds: Peak times are the Festival of Lights (around 8 December) and the June–July festival season; spring weekends are lively, August is quieter with some closures, and January–February are the calmest—book well ahead for December.

Seasonality in Lyon swings from lively, festival-filled summers to crisp, food-forward autumns and a magical, wintry December glow. Shoulder months bring pleasant weather, thinner crowds, and excellent value.

• Spring (Mar–May): Mild days and blossom-filled parks; festivals ramp up (e.g., Nuits Sonores in May); moderate crowds and a relaxed vibe.
• High Summer (Jun–Aug): Hot (often 28–35°C) with buzzing riverbanks and Nuits de Fourvière; bigger crowds, while some small shops/restaurants close in August.
• Winter (Nov–Feb): Chilly, sometimes foggy; December’s Fête des Lumières draws huge crowds and festive cheer, otherwise calm streets, lower prices, and cosy bouchons.

Seasonality in Lyon swings from lively, festival-filled summers to crisp, food-forward autumns and a magical, wintry December glow. Shoulder months bring pleasant weather, thinner crowds, and excellent value.

• Spring (Mar–May): Mild days and blossom-filled parks; festivals ramp up (e.g., Nuits Sonores in May); moderate crowds and a relaxed vibe.
• High Summer (Jun–Aug): Hot (often 28–35°C) with buzzing riverbanks and Nuits de Fourvière; bigger crowds, while some small shops/restaurants close in August.
• Winter (Nov–Feb): Chilly, sometimes foggy; December’s Fête des Lumières draws huge crowds and festive cheer, otherwise calm streets, lower prices, and cosy bouchons.

• Morning: Graze at Les Halles Paul Bocuse: oysters and a glass of white, a sliver of pâté en croûte, a taste of Saint-Marcellin (arrive by 10:00 for the buzz). Then head up to the Croix-Rousse plateau for the daily market (closed Mon) or tour a working silk workshop with Soierie Vivante to see Jacquard looms in action.
• Midday: Make a picnic and descend to the Jardin des Chartreux for one of the city’s best Saône panoramas, or take the Montée de la Grande-Côte terraces and settle for a light formule at a modern bistro (ask for a pot Lyonnais of Beaujolais). In August, many small independents close—check hours and have a Plan B.
• Afternoon: Explore the pentes: Passage Thiaffait’s Village des Créateurs for local designers, murals like the Mur des Canuts, and second-hand gems in the 1st arrondissement. If it’s hot, drift into shaded traboules; if showers arrive, duck into the Opéra’s public spaces or a café on Place Sathonay.
• Evening: Tram to the Confluence district for an architectural stroll and the rooftop terrace of the Musée des Confluences for a view of the two rivers meeting; dine quayside. For a nightcap with a skyline, choose Les Muses on the Opéra roof (seasonal) or the Celest Bar atop the Tour Part-Dieu.

Day 3: Green Lyon, cinema roots and contemporary culture

Slow the tempo in one of Europe’s loveliest urban parks, then trace cinema back to the Lumière brothers. End with a festival or a natural-wine bar, depending on the season.

• Morning: Parc de la Tête d’Or: loop the lake, visit the free zoo, and wander the botanical garden (the greenhouses are a warm refuge in winter; late May–June roses are superb). Enter via a quieter gate and consider Vélo’v bikes for a spin; bring water in summer and stick to shaded lanes by midday.
• Midday: Casual lunch near Brotteaux or a picnic on the lawns (leave no trace—bins fill fast on sunny days), then a coffee in the Musée des Beaux-Arts courtyard back on the Presqu’île; chocoholics can detour to Bernachon for bean‑to‑bar treats.
• Afternoon: Choose your thread: cinema at the Institut Lumière in Monplaisir, or a riverbanks cycle from Gerland up the Berges du Rhône to Tête d’Or (flat, family‑friendly). If it’s a Thu/Sat/Sun, the Puces du Canal flea market is a brilliant hunt—go early and stay for a simple guinguette lunch.
• Evening: Align with the calendar: Nuits Sonores (May) for electronic music in industrial spaces; Nuits de Fourvière (Jun–Jul) for theatre/dance/concerts in the Roman amphitheatre (arrive an hour early, cushions recommended); Biennales of Dance/Art (Sep) for citywide culture; Festival Lumière (Oct) for film classics. Off‑season, book a final bouchon or a natural‑wine bar in the 1st, then catch sunset at the Jardin des Curiosités—on clear days you might glimpse the Alps.

By Bus

• Main coach hub: Gare Routière de Lyon-Perrache (also stops at Part-Dieu and LYS).
• Operators: FlixBus, BlaBlaCar Bus (and others).
• Sample journey times (route/traffic dependent):
  • Paris: 6–7h; Geneva: 2–2h30; Grenoble: 1h15–1h45; Annecy: ~2h.
  • Turin: 4–5h; Milan: 6–7h; Barcelona: 8–9h; Marseille: 3.5–4h.

By Car

• Motorways converging on Lyon: A6 (to Paris), A7 (to Marseille/Nice), A43 (to Chambéry/Alps), A42/A40 (to Geneva), A47 (to Saint-Étienne); A46 is the eastern bypass.
• Approximate driving times (normal conditions): Paris 4h30–5h; Marseille 3–3h30; Geneva 1h45–2h; Annecy 1h30; Grenoble 1h15.
• Notes:
  • Low-emission zone (ZFE): Crit’Air vignette required; restrictions on older vehicles (especially weekdays).
  • Expect congestion at the Fourvière tunnel and ring roads at peaks—use the A46 bypass when possible.
  • City-centre parking is limited/expensive; consider Park-and-Ride (Parcs-Relais) at metro/tram stops.

Who should go to Lyon?

If you love cities where history, food and liveability meet, you’ll thrive in Lyon. France’s gastronomic capital blends Renaissance lanes and Roman theatres with cutting‑edge festivals and green riverfronts. It’s ideal for travellers seeking substance and authenticity, with a calmer, more local feel than Paris.

• Foodies: From bouchons and Les Halles Paul Bocuse to inventive bistronomy and street‑food festivals, Lyon serves France’s most exciting flavours in one compact city.
• History lovers: Explore Roman theatres, Renaissance traboules and silk‑weavers’ Croix‑Rousse in a UNESCO World Heritage old town that feels lived‑in, not museum‑like.
• Festival‑goers: Time your trip for Fête des Lumières, Nuits de Fourvière or the Biennales—year‑round headline events that turn the whole city into a stage.
• Scenery seekers: Capture sweeping hilltop views from Fourvière and Croix‑Rousse, riverside sunsets on the Rhône/Saône, and even the Alps on crystal‑clear winter days.
• Active travellers: Cycle the car‑free riverbanks, jog through Parc de la Tête d’Or, and ride funiculars to stair‑free viewpoints across Lyon’s twin hills.
• City‑breakers: Easy access, walkable neighbourhoods and superb‑value dining make Lyon a refined weekend that’s big on culture yet blissfully manageable.