Lviv

Day 1: Old Town essentials, towers and chapels

Ease into Lviv in the UNESCO-listed historic centre, where everything is walkable and layered with Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque detail. Wear sturdy shoes for the brukivka and bring small cash for chapel donations.

• Morning: Orient yourself on Rynok Square: circle the four fountains (some may still be shielded for protection) and climb the Ratusha tower early to beat queues and heat; the 400+ steps can be slippery in winter. Grab a first coffee at a local favourite like Svit Kavy and get used to the city’s unhurried “let’s meet in the centre” pace.
• Midday: Drift into the Armenian quarter along Virmenska Street to the Armenian Cathedral and its tranquil courtyard; be respectful and avoid flash photography. Pause in the Italian Courtyard at the Korniakt Palace for a slow coffee, then lunch on nearby Drukarska where prices are gentler than on the square.
• Afternoon: Thread the cathedral triangle: Latin Cathedral (spot the cannonball in the wall), tiny but exquisite Boim Chapel, and the Dominican Church’s vast Baroque interior. Detour through hidden courtyards and, if you fancy a quirky stop, the Yard of Lost Toys (3 Knyazya Leva St); always remember these are residential spaces.
• Evening: Dress up for the Lviv Opera (book ahead; if no performance, take the interior tour) and stroll Prospekt Svobody by twilight. Supper in a tucked-away spot like “Pid Synoyu Plyashkoyu” off Ruska Street; download the air alert app (Повітряна тривога/eTryvoha) and follow venue staff to shelters if sirens sound.

Day 2: Baroque heights, cemeteries and Belle Époque interiors

Today blends solemn remembrance with Habsburg-era showpieces. It’s a walking-and-tram day; validate tram tickets and plan a slower afternoon coffee to pace yourself.

• Morning: Tram or walk to Lychakiv Cemetery for a contemplative wander among sculpted angels and ivy; hire a guide at the gate to decode symbolism. Be especially respectful around fresh military graves; avoid loud voices and posed selfies. Autumn’s golden light and 1 November candlelit evenings are unforgettable.
• Midday: Continue to St. George’s Cathedral on St. Yuri’s Hill for Pinsel’s dramatic sculptures and sweeping city views; modest dress is appreciated. Lunch nearby or back towards the centre; many cafés offer warming borshch and varenyky in winter.
• Afternoon: Explore Potocki Palace and the Lviv National Art Gallery, then step into the House of Scientists for that spectacular carved staircase (often used as a film location). Refuel with a hot chocolate at Lviv Handmade Chocolate; weekends can be busy with families.
• Evening: Stroll Prospekt Svobody and choose a convivial themed spot for dinner—Kryivka (bunker-themed) or Gasova Lampa (kerosene-lamp inventors)—touristy but fun even for locals. Note the wartime curfew (often midnight–05:00; check current hours) and arrange a Bolt/Uklon ride if you’re beyond easy walking distance.

Day 3: Undergrounds, Jewish heritage and sunset panoramas

Go below the city for cellars and legends, then reflect at the former Jewish quarter before finishing above the rooftops. Bring a light jacket: dungeons are cool even in summer.

• Morning: Join a guided “undergrounds” circuit: the Jesuit/Garrison Church catacombs, Dominican cellars, and the alchemical basement of the Pharmacy Museum “Under the Black Eagle.” Stairs are narrow and uneven; not suitable for wheelchairs or severe claustrophobia.
• Midday: Explore the former Jewish quarter’s Space of Synagogues and the Golden Rose ruins; read survivor testimonies on the stone tablets and keep tones hushed. Lunch nearby with Galician staples; some venues nod to historic Jewish cuisine.
• Afternoon: Walk the line of old fortifications—City Arsenal, Royal Arsenal and the Gunpowder Tower—then cross to the Bernardine complex and Hlyniany Gate. Climb High Castle Hill for the classic city panorama; paths are muddy after rain and icy in winter, so choose grippy footwear.
• Evening: Opt for a “Mystical Lviv” night walk or a quieter finale with coffee and cake on Virmenska Street while street musicians play. Pick up artisanal souvenirs around Fedorova Street; most shops take cards, but a little cash helps for small makers.

By Air

• Ukraine’s airspace is closed to civil flights. There are no direct flights to Lviv.
• Nearest operating airports (Poland), with onward train/bus:
  • Rzeszów–Jasionka (RZE): typically 4–6+ hrs to Lviv via Przemyśl/Shehyni–Medyka border (border waits can add hours).
  • Kraków (KRK): 5–7+ hrs via train to Przemyśl then cross‑border train to Lviv; direct coaches 7–10+ hrs.
  • Warsaw Chopin (WAW) / Modlin (WMI): 7–9+ hrs via train to Przemyśl then Lviv; coaches also run (8–12+ hrs).
  • Katowice (KTW): 6–9+ hrs via Przemyśl; coaches 8–11+ hrs.
  • Lublin (LUZ): 5–8+ hrs by coach via Hrebenne–Rava‑Ruska.
• Tip: The fastest route is usually flight to Kraków/Warsaw → PKP Intercity train to Przemyśl → Ukrainian Railways train to Lviv.

By Train

• Main station: Lviv-Holovnyi (also Pidzamche for some services).
• Domestic:
  • Kyiv: Intercity+ 5–6 hrs; night trains 7–8 hrs.
  • Odesa: 9–11 hrs; Kharkiv: 11–14+ hrs; Ivano-Frankivsk: 2–3 hrs; Ternopil: 1.5–2 hrs; Uzhhorod: 4–5 hrs.
• International:
  • Przemyśl (Poland) ↔ Lviv: frequent daily services, ~1 h 45–2 h 15 (border checks are done on the train). Easy onward links to Kraków/Warsaw.
• Booking: booking.uz.gov.ua (Ukrainian Railways) and pkp.pl (PKP Intercity). Buy cross‑border tickets in advance.

By Bus

• Extensive direct coaches from Poland (Przemyśl, Rzeszów, Kraków, Warsaw, Katowice) and farther afield (e.g., Wrocław, Berlin, Prague) by operators such as FlixBus, Ecolines, Sindbad and local carriers.
• Typical times (subject to border): Przemyśl 2–3+ hrs; Rzeszów 3.5–6+ hrs; Kraków 7–10+ hrs; Warsaw 8–12+ hrs.
• Main terminals: Stryiskyi Bus Station (Stryiska St 109) for most long‑distance services; many routes also stop by the Main Railway Station area (Dvirtseva Sq).

By Car

• Key Polish border crossings to Lviv:
  • Korczowa–Krakovets (A4/E40 → M10): fastest for Kraków/Rzeszów; ~4–6+ hrs from Kraków (plus border).
  • Medyka–Shehyni (DK28 → M11): convenient from Przemyśl; ~1.5–3+ hrs to Lviv after crossing.
  • Hrebenne–Rava‑Ruska (DK17 → M09): good from Lublin/Warsaw; ~1.5–3+ hrs to Lviv after crossing.
• Requirements: passport/visa (if applicable), vehicle registration, Green Card insurance. Expect variable border queues (can be lengthy). Observe local curfews and road rules.
• Parking is limited in the historic centre; consider park‑and‑ride or accommodation with parking.

Note: Due to the ongoing war, timetables, routes and curfew hours can change. Always check current schedules and security advisories before travel.