Logrono

Day 1: First sips and the old town rhythm Ease into Logroño with a gentle wander of the compact old town, learning how wine shapes daily life. You’ll balance a morning of discovery with an evening of authentic pinchos-hopping like a local.

• Morning: Coffee and market-gazing at Mercado de San Blas; pick up seasonal veg (spring asparagus, autumn setas) and a pastry. Pop into the Centro de la Cultura del Rioja to see restored calados and get your bearings on Rioja’s history; book tastings for the next two days.
• Midday: Long, relaxed menú del día near the Paseo del Espolón; order the house Rioja (vino de la casa) and try patatas a la riojana if on the menu. Tip: lunch service peaks 14:00–15:30; many kitchens pause after 16:00.
• Afternoon: Walk across Puente de Hierro for a tour at Bodegas Franco‑Españolas (easy 10–15 min stroll from the centre). Rainy‑day alternative: the art‑rich, museum‑style visit at Bodegas Ontañón.
• Evening: Begin your chiquiteo on Calle San Juan (more local pace): Bar Tastavín for refined bites, Los Rotos for egg‑filled bocatas, La Cueva for its mushroom pincho, Asador El Tahití for grilled specialities. Etiquette: one pincho + one small drink per bar, stand at the counter, napkin to the floor is fine; ask “¿Qué me recomiendas?”

Day 2: Vines, vistas and the Laurel crawl Dedicate the day to vineyards and architecture, then return to town for Logroño’s most famous street food ritual. If you’re here on a Thursday, look out for PinChato deals (pincho + wine) in the evening.

• Morning: Head out with a driver or tour to Laguardia (Rioja Alavesa) for walled‑town views and a calado visit, or to Haro’s Barrio de la Estación for classic bodegas; book in advance. Seasonal note: harvest (late Sept–Oct) is busy—secure slots weeks ahead.
• Midday: Village asador lunch: chuletillas al sarmiento (lamb chops over vine shoots) or menestra riojana in season; a Crianza pairs beautifully without overwhelming. If you’re driving, keep tastings spittoon‑only—drink‑driving laws are strict.
• Afternoon: Return to Logroño for a modern, sustainable winery tour at Campo Viejo on the city edge, or decompress with a paseo along the Ebro and a coffee on Plaza del Mercado by the Co‑Cathedral.
• Evening: Classic Calle Laurel crawl: Bar Soriano (the legendary champi mushrooms), Bar Jubera (bravas), Bar Lorenzo/Tío Agus (pincho moruno), then La Tavina for an extended wine‑by‑the‑glass selection. Tip: go early (from ~20:00) to beat peak crowds 21:00–23:00; on Mondays many bars close.

Day 3: Deeper Rioja: nature, calados and a contemporary finale Today blends fresh air, subterranean heritage and a modern tasting menu send‑off. In late September, weave in San Mateo festivities and the grape‑treading ceremony in Plaza del Espolón.

• Morning: Cycle or stroll to La Grajera Park (birdlife, vineyards on the horizon); nearby Bodegas Valoria (advance booking) sits right on the Camino. Cooler months alternative: take a structured cata (tasting) class in town focusing on Viñedos Singulares and white Rioja styles.
• Midday: Traditional lunch in the centre—think bacalao a la riojana or pochas con codorniz—paired with a Reserva by the glass. Budget note: a hearty set lunch with wine is great value and frees up appetite for lighter evening grazing.
• Afternoon: Descend into a historic calado (try El Calado; book ahead) for an atmospheric tasting. Shop for bottles to take home at La Tavina’s wine store; look for the green Rioja back label seal for authenticity.
• Evening: Contemporary dinner: Íkaro (Rioja produce with Ecuadorian accents), Ajonegro (Spanish‑Mexican), or Wine Fandango (lively, seasonal plates). Finish with a gentle paseo and a late glass of blanco or a vermut; in spring/Easter, seek out torrijas as a dessert special.

By Air

• Logroño–Agoncillo (RJL): 15 km east (≈20 min by car). Very limited/seasonal flights; most travellers use larger airports below.
• Bilbao (BIO): ≈150 km (1 h 40–1 h 50 by car). Frequent flights across Europe; direct buses Bilbao–Logroño take 1 h 45–2 h 15.
• Pamplona (PNA): ≈90–100 km (1 h 15–1 h 30 by car). Regular buses Pamplona–Logroño ≈1 h 30.
• Zaragoza (ZAZ): ≈170 km (1 h 45–2 h by car). Train/bus Zaragoza–Logroño ≈1 h 45–2 h.
• Vitoria–Gasteiz (VIT): ≈100–110 km (≈1 h 15 by car). Limited commercial services.
• Santander (SDR): ≈180–200 km (≈2 h 15–2 h 30 by car). Good low‑cost links, incl. UK.
• Madrid (MAD): ≈330 km (3 h 30–4 h by car). Fast trains from Madrid‑Chamartín to Logroño in ≈3 h 20–3 h 45.
• Barcelona (BCN): ≈470 km (≈5 h by car). Direct trains from Barcelona‑Sants in ≈3 h 40–4 h 30.

By Train

• Main station: Logroño (city‑centre intermodal hub).
• Madrid–Logroño: Renfe Alvia/Intercity, ≈3 h 20–3 h 45, usually direct (several daily).
• Barcelona–Logroño: Alvia ≈3 h 40–4 h 30 (some direct; others via change at Zaragoza).
• Zaragoza–Logroño: MD/Alvia ≈1 h 45–2 h.
• Bilbao/San Sebastián: rail often requires changes and is slower; buses are typically quicker.
• Tickets and timetables: renfe.com; seat reservation included.

By Bus

• Main station: Estación de Autobuses de Logroño (next to/under the train station in the intermodal complex).
• Frequent services (ALSA and regional operators):
  • Bilbao: 1 h 45–2 h 15
  • San Sebastián/Donostia: 2 h 15–2 h 45
  • Pamplona: 1 h 15–1 h 40
  • Zaragoza: 2 h–2 h 30
  • Vitoria‑Gasteiz: 1 h–1 h 20
  • Burgos: 1 h 30–1 h 45
  • Madrid: 3 h 45–4 h 30
  • Barcelona: 5 h 30–6 h 30

By Car

• Main routes:
  • AP‑68 (toll): Bilbao–Logroño–Zaragoza corridor.
  • A‑12 (Autovía del Camino): Logroño–Pamplona.
  • N‑232/N‑120: alternatives to the toll motorway (slower).
• Typical drive times:
  • Bilbao 1 h 45; Pamplona 1 h 15; Zaragoza 1 h 45–2 h; Burgos 1 h 30; San Sebastián 2 h; Madrid 3 h 30–4 h; Barcelona 4 h 45–5 h 30.
• The old town is largely pedestrianised; use central car parks and walk.