Kilkenny

Day 1: The Medieval Mile and living history

Ease into Kilkenny with a walkable sweep from the Castle to the Cathedral, threading cobbles, slips and courtyards. Today balances headline sights with little pauses that make the city feel lived-in rather than “ticked off.”

• Morning: Tour Kilkenny Castle (pre-book in high season) and wander the Castle Park and Canal Walk for river views. Grab coffee at the Design Centre across The Parade; if it’s raining, start indoors at the Picture Gallery.
• Midday: Explore the Medieval Mile Museum in St. Mary’s and then Rothe House & Garden for a Tudor merchant’s-eye view of the city. Lunch nearby at Paris Texas for hearty BBQ/fusion or a simple soup-and-sandwich in a café on High/Parliament Street (weekends fill fast—eat a little early).
• Afternoon: Head to St. Canice’s Cathedral; climb the Round Tower for the city’s best panorama (go early or late for shorter queues; tower may close in high winds). Detour via the Black Abbey’s stained glass and pause along the “slips” for photos.
• Evening: Supper at Kyteler’s Inn (history-forward, often with live music) or a quieter meal near John Street. Nightcap options: Matt the Millers for a lively trad session, or Tynan’s Bridge House Bar for a contemplative pint in a Victorian snug (read the room—keep voices low in quieter pubs).

Day 2: Art, river and the pub heartbeat

Today blends contemporary culture with river time and a deeper dip into pub life. If it’s a festival week, weave in a show at the Watergate Theatre or Set Theatre as schedules allow.

• Morning: Butler Gallery (Evans’ Home) for a smart mix of art and heritage, then amble the Riverside/Canal Walk (good in all seasons; bring a brolly). Pop into Kilkenny Design Centre craft shops if you’re gift-hunting.
• Midday: Long lunch at Sullivan’s Taproom on John Street—wood-fired pizza and a tasting paddle in the courtyard (gold on warm days; blankets and heaters help on cooler ones). If you’re pacing for evening rounds, swap to a glass or alcohol-free option.
• Afternoon: Seek out Talbot’s Tower and the city wall remnants for a sense of medieval scale; loop back via Cleere’s Bar and Theatre to check the board for tonight’s comedy, theatre or alt-folk. Quick espresso stop and a breather—Kilkenny rewards an unhurried cadence.
• Evening: For an authentic trad session, try Ryan’s (The Pumphouse) where music is for musicians first—listen, applaud, avoid shouty chat. Whiskey fan? Finish at the Dylan Whisky Bar for a guided dram—ask staff for a light-peat introduction if you’re new to Irish whiskey.

Day 3: Monastic county and a final hurrah

Range beyond the city for ruined abbeys and big skies, then return for a celebratory last night. If you’re here on a hurling match day, expect the entire evening to pivot around The Cats—arrive early to find space.

• Morning: Drive (or taxi) to Jerpoint Abbey near Thomastown for superb cloister carvings (OPW site; check seasonal hours). Continue to Kells Priory—free, sprawling and atmospheric; sturdy shoes recommended after rain.
• Midday: Late lunch back in town or picnic by the River Nore if dry. On shoulder seasons, a warm pub lunch near Parliament Street is perfect—order something quick if you’re mid-round with locals.
• Afternoon: Pick up anything you missed: Rothe House garden in soft light, a last cathedral wander, or a browse of indie galleries off the Medieval Mile. If it’s August (Arts Festival) or October (Savour Kilkenny), slip in an extra concert, talk or tasting.
• Evening: Do a gentle “pub circuit”: start modern at The Left Bank or Langton’s for a buzz, slide to Sullivan’s or Cleere’s for music or chat, and end with a quiet stout at Tynan’s. Pub etiquette refresher: join the round, don’t wave cash at the bar, and match your energy to the room—sláinte!

By Air

• Dublin Airport (DUB): Closest major hub (about 130 km). Driving via M50/M9 takes roughly 1 hr 30 mins–2 hrs. Direct coaches (JJ Kavanagh route 717) run from the airport to Kilkenny in about 2 hrs 15 mins–2 hrs 45 mins. Via Dublin city and train typically takes 2.5–3 hrs.
• Cork Airport (ORK): Around 160 km; 2–2 hrs 30 mins by car via M8/N76. Public transport usually involves a coach with a change (about 3.5–4.5 hrs).
• Shannon Airport (SNN): About 165 km; 2 hrs 15 mins–2 hrs 45 mins by car via M7/M8/N77. Public transport requires changes (approx. 4–5 hrs).

By Train

• Irish Rail Dublin Heuston–Kilkenny (MacDonagh Station): Typically hourly; journey time 1 hr 35 mins–1 hr 50 mins. MacDonagh Station is a 10-minute walk to the centre.
• Waterford–Kilkenny: Around 35–45 mins; several services daily.
• From other cities (e.g., Cork, Limerick, Galway): Routes involve changes (often via Dublin or Limerick Junction/Waterford); allow 3–5 hrs. Check Irish Rail timetables.

By Bus

• JJ Kavanagh & Sons (route 717): Dublin Airport/City–Kilkenny–Waterford. Up to hourly at peaks. Dublin Airport to Kilkenny typically 2 hrs 15 mins–2 hrs 45 mins; from Dublin city about 2–2 hrs 30 mins. Main stops in Kilkenny include Ormonde Road (city centre) and MacDonagh Station.
• Dublin Coach (M9 service): Dublin (city centre/Red Cow)–Kilkenny–Waterford; usually around hourly. Dublin to Kilkenny about 2–2 hrs 30 mins. City stop on Ormonde Road.
• Regional services: Buses link Kilkenny with Carlow, Thomastown, Callan, Clonmel, and other towns (operators include JJ Kavanagh and Bus Éireann).

By Car

• From Dublin: M9 southbound to J9 (Kilkenny), then N10; about 1 hr 30 mins–1 hr 50 mins.
• From Waterford: M9 northbound to J9, then N10; roughly 45–55 mins.
• From Cork: M8 to the N77 (via Urlingford) or N24/N76; about 2–2 hrs 30 mins.
• From Limerick: M7 to Portlaoise, then N77; around 2 hrs.
• Parking: Central multi-storeys (Market Cross, Market Yard, Ormonde Street) and pay-and-display on-street; Park & Ride operates during major festivals. The city centre is compact and walkable.