Ivrea

Day 1: Legends and first tastes of Ivrea

Arrive and orient yourself among cobbled lanes, medieval towers and the Dora Baltea river. If you’re here in carnival season (Jan–Mar), today is about learning the story and getting practicalities in place; outside carnival, it’s a gentle introduction to the old town.

• Morning: Walk the historic centre from Piazza di Città to Piazza Ottinetti, pausing at the tourist office in Piazza Ottinetti for maps and current schedules. In carnival season, buy a red Phrygian cap (essential for safety and solidarity) and check shuttle/road-closure notices and Sunday ticketing.
• Midday: Lunch in a trattoria on hearty Piedmontese dishes (polenta, tajarin) with a glass of local Erbaluce. If it’s a fagiolata day, join the communal bean feast at Bellavista or San Giovanni—bring a reusable container to keep hands free.
• Afternoon: Trace the battle geography without the chaos: stroll Borghetto’s narrow lanes, then scout Piazza del Rondolino and Piazza Freguglia to choose tomorrow’s vantage. Note team colours and emblems posted in each square so you can tell who’s who during combat.
• Evening: If it’s Carnival Saturday, gather in Piazza di Città for the unveiling of the Mugnaia and the torchlit parade with music and fireworks—arrive early for a balcony view line. Off-season, enjoy aperitivo in the square and an easy riverside walk before an early night.

Day 2: Rituals and the first Battle of the Oranges

Today blends solemn ceremony with raw energy. Aim for an early start, keep hands free, and dress for slippery cobbles (waterproof boots you don’t mind sacrificing).

• Morning: Watch the Preda in Dora at the old bridge, where the Podestà casts a stone into the river—a defiant nod to the fall of tyranny—accompanied by fifes and drums. If you’re not here in carnival, swap in a UNESCO-themed walk exploring Ivrea’s Olivetti modernist buildings and social architecture.
• Midday: Refuel at a fagiolata if scheduled; otherwise keep lunch light and quick near the squares. Buy your Sunday access ticket in advance if required (adults €15; under-12s, residents, disabled and participants exempt).
• Afternoon: The first battle erupts: choose a safer, contained view in Piazza Ottinetti or go full immersion in Borghetto for the most atmospheric melee. Wear your red cap, avoid glasses, protect eyes with a raised forearm, and stand behind nets or in clearly marked spectator lanes—move with the crowd when whistles halt or restart the action.
• Evening: Hose down at your hotel and warm up with Canavese nebbiolo in an enoteca. Stroll the cleaned streets to see the impressive post-battle operation and orange pulp collection for composting; turn in early if you plan to join again tomorrow.

Day 3: Finale, fire and farewell

The momentum builds to a cathartic close—ideally time your trip so this is Tuesday for the burning of the Scarli. If you’re here on Monday, you’ll see the poles being erected; Tuesday brings the climactic rites.

• Morning: Easy recovery wander and coffee near Piazza di Città; check the day’s timetable for processions and square assignments. If Monday, watch the Scarli being planted by the last married couples of each district; off-season, add more Olivetti stops or a slow amble along the river.
• Midday: Light lunch and kit check (dry layers, waterproofs, spare gloves). Photographers: wrap cameras in plastic and keep your back to a wall or barrier during cart entries.
• Afternoon: Second or third battle session—try a different square (Piazza Freguglia or Piazza del Rondolino) to feel how tactics shift with space. Mind the whistles, never cross a cart’s path, and collect ammunition only from safe ground after carts pass if you’re joining informally.
• Evening: On Tuesday, follow the torchlit processions led by the Abbà to witness the burning of the Scarli and the moving funeral of the carnival—a powerful bridge to Lent marked by the General’s farewell in dialect. Outside carnival, celebrate with a leisurely dinner and plan a Canavese day trip (wineries, castles) for your onward journey; if staying in Turin, allow extra time for trains or festival traffic.

By Air

• Turin (TRN) – the nearest airport. About 35–45 minutes by car via A5. By public transport allow roughly 1.5–2 hours: airport shuttle/bus/train into Turin (Porta Susa/Porta Nuova), then regional train to Ivrea.
• Milan Malpensa (MXP) – about 1 hour 15–30 minutes by car. By public transport 2–3 hours: Malpensa Express to Milan (or Gallarate/Novara), then regional services (usually with a change at Chivasso or Turin).
• Milan Linate (LIN) – about 1 hour 45–2 hours by car; 2.5–3.5 hours by public transport via central Milan and onward regional trains.
• Bergamo Orio al Serio (BGY) – around 2 hours by car; 3+ hours by public transport via Milan.

By Train

• Ivrea station sits on the Turin–Aosta line.
• From Turin: regional trains from Torino Porta Susa (and Porta Nuova) typically 50–75 minutes; at least hourly, often via Chivasso.
• From Aosta: regional trains about 1 hour 10–20 minutes.
• From Milan: about 1 hour 50 minutes–2 hours 30 minutes with 1 change (commonly at Chivasso or Turin).
• Tickets and times: Trenitalia regional services (check Regionale/Regionale Veloce timetables).

By Car

• Motorway A5 (E25) Torino–Aosta: exit Ivrea. Approximate drive times – Turin 45–60 minutes; Aosta 45–60 minutes; Milan 1 hour 30–45 minutes (A4 then A5). Tolls apply.
• Winter conditions can affect the A5 towards the Alps; check for chain/snow-tyre requirements in season.
• During Carnival, access to the historic centre is restricted and parking is limited; use signed park-and-ride areas and event shuttles where provided.