Genoa

Day 1: La Superba’s heart — palaces, alleys, and sea air

Start with the city’s chiaroscuro: grand palaces steps from shadowy, salty alleys. Today is about the Republic’s wealth, the maze-like caruggi, and a sunset reveal over the slate roofs.

• Morning: Ease in at Piazza De Ferrari, then stroll Via Garibaldi’s palaces (Musei di Strada Nuova: Palazzo Rosso, Bianco, Tursi). Buy a Genoa Museum Card if you plan multiple entries and note many museums close on Mondays.
• Midday: Duck into the caruggi around Piazza San Matteo, Piazza Banchi and Sottoripa; grab a hot slice of farinata or panissa from a sciamadda and a coffee. If rain or heat presses, head inside the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo and its Treasury.
• Afternoon: Ride the Ascensore Castelletto from Piazza Portello to Spianata Castelletto for the essential panorama; descend on foot via creûze or the lift. If you prefer art, swap in the baroque riches at Chiesa del Gesù (Rubens’ canvases).
• Evening: Aperitivo in Piazza delle Erbe (lively but local), then wander to the Porto Antico for a harbourfront dinner. Stick to well‑lit routes through the alleys after dark; in peak summer, go later to dodge cruise‑hour crowds.

Day 2: The maritime soul — docks, lanes, and a fishing village

Much of Genoa’s mood is maritime: shipyards, emigrants, explorers. Pair the working port’s grit with the soft light of a pastel fishing cove.

• Morning: Explore Galata Museo del Mare (allow 1.5–2 hours), then amble the quays of Porto Antico (Renzo Piano’s Bigo and Biosfera). On windy winter days the tramontana makes the air crystal clear for photos.
• Midday: Lunch by the water (simple grilled fish and a glass of Ligurian white), or head into Mercato Orientale for market‑fresh bites; upstairs MOG is great if some of your group wants a quick, modern food‑hall option.

By Air

• Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA) is about 7 km west of the centre.
• To the city: taxi 15–25 minutes; public transport 25–45 minutes via the shuttle link to Genova Sestri Ponente station plus a regional train to Brignole/Principe (check AMT “Airlink” timings).
• Typical direct/seasonal routes connect major European hubs. For wider options, consider nearby airports:
  • Milan Linate (2–2.5 hrs by train/car), Malpensa (2–3 hrs), Bergamo (2.5–3 hrs)
  • Turin (2–2.5 hrs)
  • Pisa (1.5–2 hrs)
  • Nice (3–3.5 hrs)

By Train

• Main stations: Genova Piazza Principe (for services from Milan/Turin/France) and Genova Brignole (for the Ligurian Riviera eastwards, La Spezia/Pisa).
• Key journey times (approximate):
  • Milan Centrale – Genova P. Principe: 1h40–2h (InterCity/Frecciarossa)
  • Turin Porta Nuova – Genova P. Principe: 1h45–2h15 (Regionale Veloce/InterCity)
  • Pisa Centrale – Genova Brignole: 1h45–2h20 (InterCity/Regionale Veloce)
  • La Spezia – Genova Brignole: 1h20–2h
  • Rome Termini – Genova: 4h30–5h (mostly via Pisa, InterCity/Freccia)
  • Nice – Genova: 3–4h with a change at Ventimiglia (TER + Trenitalia)

Genoa is a crowd-light, character-rich port city where gritty alleys and gilded palaces sit side by side, delivering big-city culture without the queues.

• Vibe: A chiaroscuro blend of working harbour and aristocratic grandeur—maze-like caruggi, reserved but wry locals (the famous mugugno), and sudden panoramas via funiculars and public lifts.
• Why it’s different: Less stage-managed than classic art cities; stroll from UNESCO-listed Via Garibaldi and the Palazzi dei Rolli to Sottoripa’s arcades and fish stalls with room to breathe—even in peak months.
• Authentic tastes & value: Breakfast on focaccia, grab farinata and pesto in sciamadda, browse Mercato Orientale (and MOG upstairs); fair prices, generous aperitivi in Piazza delle Erbe, and a great-value museum card.
• Unmissable hooks: Renzo Piano’s Porto Antico, Spianata Castelletto view via ascensore, pebble-beached Boccadasse at sunset, and the haunting beauty of Staglieno Cemetery; time a visit for Rolli Days to see private palaces open their doors.

If you love cities with layers, Genoa rewards patience, curiosity and an appetite for the real thing. It’s for travellers who like to get (a little) lost, dig into history, and taste regional food at source. Think Italy’s proud, gritty–grand port: less stage‑set than Venice or Florence, more chiaroscuro and discovery.

• History lovers: Trace a thousand years from medieval caruggi and gates to the UNESCO‑listed Palazzi dei Rolli and the Galata maritime story.
• Architecture buffs: Admire Renaissance and Baroque palaces, bold black‑and‑white facades, and Renzo Piano’s revitalised waterfront and San Giorgio bridge.
• Foodies: Graze through Mercato Orientale and MOG, focaccia for breakfast and mortar‑crushed pesto, with old‑school sciamadde frying classics by the port.
• Scenery seekers: Glide by lift or funicular from shadowy alleys to Spianata Castelletto’s panorama, or slip to pastel Boccadasse for a Ligurian Sea sunset.
• Active travellers: Wander the maze‑like centre, climb brick creûze to hillside views, or hop trains to the Riviera and Cinque Terre for coastal walks.
• City‑breakers: Compact, walkable and great value, Genoa blends major museums and Rolli Days with lively piazzas and a relaxed aperitivo scene.

These are the unmissable highlights of Genoa, distilled for a first-time visit. Tick them off to grasp the city’s proud maritime soul and chiaroscuro character.

• Walk Via Garibaldi’s UNESCO-listed Strade Nuove to admire the Palazzi dei Rolli and their opulent courtyards.
• Explore the caruggi of the Centro Storico and Sottoripa’s arcades, snacking on farinata and focaccia from a sciamadda.
• Visit the Musei di Strada Nuova (Palazzi Rosso, Bianco, Tursi) for Rubens, Van Dyck and Paganini’s ‘Cannone’ violin.
• Take the Ascensore Castelletto to Spianata Castelletto for a sweeping city-and-sea panorama.
• Hike the creûze or the Nervi seaside promenade to trace Genoa’s vertical cityscape and coastal light.

These are the unmissable highlights of Genoa, distilled for a first-time visit. Tick them off to grasp the city’s proud maritime soul and chiaroscuro character.

• Walk Via Garibaldi’s UNESCO-listed Strade Nuove to admire the Palazzi dei Rolli and their opulent courtyards.
• Explore the caruggi of the Centro Storico and Sottoripa’s arcades, snacking on farinata and focaccia from a sciamadda.
• Visit the Musei di Strada Nuova (Palazzi Rosso, Bianco, Tursi) for Rubens, Van Dyck and Paganini’s ‘Cannone’ violin.
• Take the Ascensore Castelletto to Spianata Castelletto for a sweeping city-and-sea panorama.
• Hike the creûze or the Nervi seaside promenade to trace Genoa’s vertical cityscape and coastal light.

Genoa’s food culture is born of the port and the hills: simple, intense flavours made for everyday life. Eat like a local—standing at counters, wandering markets, and lingering over aperitivo by the sea. Expect basil, olive oil, chickpeas and anchovies done to perfection.

• Focaccia genovese – Olive‑oil rich, crisp‑topped and airy; often breakfast, even dipped in cappuccino. Best warm from no‑frills bakeries where queues spill onto the street.
• Trofie al pesto – Twisted pasta with DOP basil pesto pounded in a mortar, often with potatoes and green beans. Order in cosy trattorie or watch it made at Mercato Orientale/MOG amid the market buzz.
• Farinata & panissa – Wood‑fired chickpea pancake and fried chickpea chips; salty, moreish street food. Grab them hot at sciamadda and Sottoripa friggitorie, shoulder‑to‑shoulder at the counter.
• Vermentino, Pigato & the “baxeichito” – Crisp Ligurian whites and a basil‑laced cocktail for aperitivo. Sip in lively caruggi wine bars or seaside at Boccadasse as the sun goes down.

Genoa’s food culture is born of the port and the hills: simple, intense flavours made for everyday life. Eat like a local—standing at counters, wandering markets, and lingering over aperitivo by the sea. Expect basil, olive oil, chickpeas and anchovies done to perfection.

• Focaccia genovese – Olive‑oil rich, crisp‑topped and airy; often breakfast, even dipped in cappuccino. Best warm from no‑frills bakeries where queues spill onto the street.
• Trofie al pesto – Twisted pasta with DOP basil pesto pounded in a mortar, often with potatoes and green beans. Order in cosy trattorie or watch it made at Mercato Orientale/MOG amid the market buzz.
• Farinata & panissa – Wood‑fired chickpea pancake and fried chickpea chips; salty, moreish street food. Grab them hot at sciamadda and Sottoripa friggitorie, shoulder‑to‑shoulder at the counter.
• Vermentino, Pigato & the “baxeichito” – Crisp Ligurian whites and a basil‑laced cocktail for aperitivo. Sip in lively caruggi wine bars or seaside at Boccadasse as the sun goes down.

Choosing the right neighbourhood in Genoa shapes your trip: each area mixes sea, hills, grandeur and gritty charm in its own way. Decide whether you want medieval alleyways, a flat waterfront base, or quiet hilltop views—then pick accordingly.

• Centro Storico (Caruggi) — Medieval maze of narrow alleys, Rolli palaces and street‑food (focaccia, farinata); lively by day, edgy after dark, best for history lovers and urban explorers who don’t mind noise.
• Porto Antico — Flat waterfront by the Aquarium and Renzo Piano promenades; family‑friendly with easy walking and dining, but busy on cruise days and quieter at night.
• Castelletto — Leafy hilltop above the centre via public lifts/funiculars (Spianata Castelletto view); calm residential feel with sweeping panoramas, great for couples and light sleepers.
• Boccadasse — Colourful former fishing village on a pebble beach along Corso Italia; romantic, sunset aperitivi and sea air, suited to a slower stay (bus ride to the sights).

Choosing the right neighbourhood in Genoa shapes your trip: each area mixes sea, hills, grandeur and gritty charm in its own way. Decide whether you want medieval alleyways, a flat waterfront base, or quiet hilltop views—then pick accordingly.

• Centro Storico (Caruggi) — Medieval maze of narrow alleys, Rolli palaces and street‑food (focaccia, farinata); lively by day, edgy after dark, best for history lovers and urban explorers who don’t mind noise.
• Porto Antico — Flat waterfront by the Aquarium and Renzo Piano promenades; family‑friendly with easy walking and dining, but busy on cruise days and quieter at night.
• Castelletto — Leafy hilltop above the centre via public lifts/funiculars (Spianata Castelletto view); calm residential feel with sweeping panoramas, great for couples and light sleepers.
• Boccadasse — Colourful former fishing village on a pebble beach along Corso Italia; romantic, sunset aperitivi and sea air, suited to a slower stay (bus ride to the sights).

Genoa has a classic Mediterranean rhythm: mild, blossom-filled shoulder seasons, hot and humid summers by the sea, and cooler, moodier winters. Crowds swell with cruise arrivals from spring to early autumn, while autumn–winter brings a more intimate, authentic feel.

• Spring: Mild and bright; manageable crowds (busier on cruise days); lively yet relaxed vibe with Rolli Days and ideal conditions for exploring the caruggi and hills.
• High Summer: Hot, humid, and buzzing on the waterfront and beaches; peak crowds midday from cruise ships; vibrant, late-night energy—plan early/late sightseeing and retreat to shaded alleys.
• Autumn–Winter: Cooler with rain spells and the occasional tramontana; few tourists and a moody, chiaroscuro atmosphere—great for museums, markets, and comfort food, though hours can be shorter.

Genoa has a classic Mediterranean rhythm: mild, blossom-filled shoulder seasons, hot and humid summers by the sea, and cooler, moodier winters. Crowds swell with cruise arrivals from spring to early autumn, while autumn–winter brings a more intimate, authentic feel.

• Spring: Mild and bright; manageable crowds (busier on cruise days); lively yet relaxed vibe with Rolli Days and ideal conditions for exploring the caruggi and hills.
• High Summer: Hot, humid, and buzzing on the waterfront and beaches; peak crowds midday from cruise ships; vibrant, late-night energy—plan early/late sightseeing and retreat to shaded alleys.
• Autumn–Winter: Cooler with rain spells and the occasional tramontana; few tourists and a moody, chiaroscuro atmosphere—great for museums, markets, and comfort food, though hours can be shorter.

Day 3: Vertical city — markets, monuments, and rolli

Start like a Genovese with focaccia (even dipped in cappuccino, no judgement). Today mixes markets, monumental sculpture, and rolli palaces beyond Via Garibaldi.

• Morning: Shop like a local at Mercato del Carmine (quieter, short supply chain) or Mercato Orientale (bigger, more bustle). Don’t touch produce—point and ask; a friendly “Chi è l’ultimo?” helps you join the queue; bring cash and small notes.
• Midday: Taxi or bus to the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno for astonishing 19th‑century sculpture under arcades; it’s mostly outdoors, so bring shade in summer and layers in winter. Grab a quick focaccia slice on return.
• Afternoon: Walk Via Balbi to Palazzo Reale (Hall of Mirrors, gardens) and on to Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria for the most “house‑museum” feel. If your dates coincide with Rolli Days (spring/autumn), pre‑book and prioritise a tight cluster of openings rather than trying to see everything.
• Evening: Back in the centre, join locals for a gotto of crisp Ligurian white in Galleria Mazzini or around Piazza Lavagna, then a final dinner near the caruggi. Use the public lifts to spare your legs, wear sturdy shoes for cobbles, and remember many shops close for lunch (roughly 12:30–15:30).

By Coach

• Long‑distance coaches (e.g., FlixBus) serve stops near Genova Piazza Principe (bus terminal area) and Piazza della Vittoria (near Brignole).
• Indicative times: Milan 2–3 hrs; Turin 2–3 hrs; Florence 3.5–5 hrs; Rome 7–8 hrs; Nice 3–4 hrs.

By Ferry

• Regular sailings from the ferry terminal (Piazzale dei Traghetti Iqbal Masih) to Sardinia (Olbia, Porto Torres), Sicily (Palermo), Corsica (Bastia) and Spain (Barcelona); operators include GNV, Moby/Tirrenia, Corsica Ferries.
• Typical durations: Palermo ~20–21 hrs; Olbia/Porto Torres ~10–12 hrs (often overnight); Bastia ~6–7 hrs; Barcelona ~20 hrs. Vehicles accepted.

By Car

• Motorways: A7 (to Milan), A10 (to Ventimiglia/Nice), A12 (to La Spezia/Pisa), A26 (to Alessandria/Lake Maggiore). Tolls apply.
• Typical drive times (traffic‑dependent): Milan ~2 hrs; Turin ~1h45–2 hrs; Nice ~2.5–3 hrs; Pisa ~1.5–2 hrs.
• City centre has a limited‑traffic zone and scarce street parking; use multi‑storeys (e.g., Porto Antico, Darsena, Piazza della Vittoria) or park‑and‑ride. Roads are busy, with tunnels and steep sections.

If you love cities with layers, Genoa rewards patience, curiosity and an appetite for the real thing. It’s for travellers who like to get (a little) lost, dig into history, and taste regional food at source. Think Italy’s proud, gritty–grand port: less stage‑set than Venice or Florence, more chiaroscuro and discovery.

• History lovers: Trace a thousand years from medieval caruggi and gates to the UNESCO‑listed Palazzi dei Rolli and the Galata maritime story.
• Architecture buffs: Admire Renaissance and Baroque palaces, bold black‑and‑white facades, and Renzo Piano’s revitalised waterfront and San Giorgio bridge.
• Foodies: Graze through Mercato Orientale and MOG, focaccia for breakfast and mortar‑crushed pesto, with old‑school sciamadde frying classics by the port.
• Scenery seekers: Glide by lift or funicular from shadowy alleys to Spianata Castelletto’s panorama, or slip to pastel Boccadasse for a Ligurian Sea sunset.
• Active travellers: Wander the maze‑like centre, climb brick creûze to hillside views, or hop trains to the Riviera and Cinque Terre for coastal walks.
• City‑breakers: Compact, walkable and great value, Genoa blends major museums and Rolli Days with lively piazzas and a relaxed aperitivo scene.