Folegandros

Day 1: Cliff‑top Chora and the Panagia sunset

Ease into Folegandros with the rhythm of Chora: car‑free lanes, jasmine-scented squares and a constant backdrop of sea and sky. Today balances gentle exploration with the island’s iconic sunset pilgrimage.

• Morning: Disembark at Karavostasis, ride the local bus or transfer up to Chora, and wander the Kastro’s medieval alleys while they’re quiet and cool; look for painted cobbles, tiny chapels and cliff‑edge viewpoints. Pause for Greek coffee in Pounta Square and get your bearings along the cliff path towards Ano Meria for sweeping views.
• Midday: Settle into your hotel and enjoy a long lunch under the trees in one of Chora’s squares; order small plates and the local cheese. In peak summer, embrace a brief siesta (locals value afternoon quiet); in shoulder season, pop into boutiques or scout your favourite evening spot.
• Afternoon: Walk the zigzag path up to the Church of Panagia; start 60–75 minutes before sunset to enjoy the changing light and secure a calm perch. Wear trainers, take a light windbreaker (the meltemi can whip across the ridge) and carry water; in July–August, consider a sunrise visit here on another day for solitude.
• Evening: Drift back down with the afterglow, then join the evening volta through the squares; dinner in Chora (reserve in high season) with matsata (local pasta) and a carafe of island wine. Cap the night with a quiet drink in a courtyard bar—Folegandros nights are convivial, not noisy.

Day 2: South‑west coves, easy footpaths and a boat to Katergo

Today is for the sea. Choose calm, south‑ and west‑facing coves if the meltemi is blowing, and link beaches by short footpaths or a boat taxi.

• Morning: Bus or drive to Agali for a first swim, then follow the 20‑minute footpath to Agios Nikolaos (sandy/pebbly mix, clear water); pack reef‑friendly sunscreen and sturdy sandals. If you prefer fewer people, detour to tiny Galifos en route (simple, bohemian cove).
• Midday: Long, toes‑in‑the‑sand lunch at the taverna in Agios Nikolaos—grilled fish, tomato salad, chilled white; nap in the tamarisk shade. Avoid uphill walks in the heat; refill water before moving on (no facilities between coves).
• Afternoon: Take a boat from Agali or Karavostasis to Katergo—Folegandros’ most dramatic beach—arriving when the light softens; check last return times and sea conditions early in the day (boats are weather‑dependent). If seas are up, linger between Agali/Galifos for swims and golden‑hour photos instead.
• Evening: Dine harbourside in Karavostasis for a quieter, maritime mood as the last ferry departs; grilled octopus and a glass of Assyrtiko are fitting. Back in Chora, enjoy a nightcap and some low‑light stargazing—the island’s minimal light pollution rewards a short stroll away from the squares.

Day 3: Ano Meria trails, lighthouse vistas and rural flavours

Shift to the island’s agricultural soul in Ano Meria—stone terraces, scattered themonies (farmsteads) and big horizons. Walking here is unhurried and deeply scenic; spring brings wildflowers, autumn the softest light.

• Morning: Bus to Ano Meria and set out on the easy loop via Agios Andreas and Agios Panteleimonas (about 1.5 hours); keep to paths, close any gates you pass, and carry at least 1.5–2 litres of water per person. Check opening hours for the Folklore Museum (they vary by season/day) to peek inside a traditional farmstead.
• Midday: Rustic lunch at a village taverna—matsata with rooster or rabbit, caper salad, local cheese; service is unhurried by design. Respect afternoon quiet; July–August meltemi can be strong up here, so pick a sheltered table.
• Afternoon: Hike towards the Aspropounta Lighthouse for “edge‑of‑the‑world” views; confident walkers can continue down to Livadaki beach (steep descent and re‑ascent—plan time and water accordingly). If heat or wind is high, enjoy the lighthouse as an out‑and‑back and save the beach for a milder day.
• Evening: Farewell dinner back in Chora, or watch sunset from a discreet roadside “balcony” on the Chora–Ano Meria ridge for a quieter panorama. Pack for tomorrow’s ferry; if travelling off‑season, confirm bus and dining hours as services scale back.

By Air

• No airport on the island. The nearest airports with the best onward ferry links:
  • Santorini (JTR) – drive/bus to Athinios Port 20–30 min; high-speed ferry to Folegandros 45–75 min (conventional 1.5–3 hrs). Most frequent April–October.
  • Milos (MLO) – 10–15 min to Adamas Port; ferry 40–90 min.
  • Naxos (JNX) – 10 min to Naxos Port; ferry 2–3.5 hrs (seasonal).
  • Paros (PAS) – 10–15 min to Parikia; ferry 2–4 hrs (seasonal).
  • Mykonos (JMK) – 10 min to New Port (Tourlos); ferry 3–5 hrs (seasonal).
  • Athens (ATH) – transfer to Piraeus Port 60–90 min; high-speed ferry 3.5–5 hrs; conventional 7–10 hrs.

By Ferry/Boat

• Main arrival point is Karavostasis (Folegandros Port).
• From Piraeus (Athens): high-speed catamarans typically 3.5–5 hrs; conventional ferries 7–10 hrs. Fewer sailings in winter.
• From nearby islands:
  • Santorini: 45–75 min (fast), 1.5–3 hrs (conventional).
  • Milos: 40–90 min.
  • Naxos/Paros: 2–4 hrs.
  • Ios/Sikinos: 40–90 min (seasonal).
• Typical operators include SeaJets and Zante Ferries (others vary by season). Services are weather-dependent (Meltemi winds); build buffer time in July–August.
• Book ahead for July–August and around public holidays.

By Train

• No rail to the island. For port access:
  • Athens area: the suburban railway (Proastiakos) and metro connect central Athens/ATH Airport to Piraeus Port (direct airport–Piraeus rail link via the suburban line; metro Line 1/Green also serves Piraeus).

By Bus

• Athens Airport to Piraeus: Express bus X96, 24/7, about 60–90 min depending on traffic.
• On the gateway islands:
  • Santorini: KTEL buses link the airport and Fira to Athinios Port (indirect from airport via Fira); taxis 20–30 min to port.
  • Milos: local bus/taxis connect the airport with Adamas Port (10–15 min).
  • Other islands have local KTEL buses to their main ports (frequencies vary seasonally).

By Car

• You can drive to Piraeus and park (limited availability; pre-book long‑stay in summer), then take a passenger ferry.
• Car transport on ferries to Folegandros is possible on conventional vessels (reserve well in peak season). Road network on Folegandros is limited; many beaches are reached on foot/boat.