Elba

Day 1: Portoferraio, history and the White Coast

Ease into Elba with a blend of Napoleonic history and luminous turquoise coves. Portoferraio’s fortifications and old harbour set the scene before you dip into the island’s dazzling Costa Bianca.

• Morning: Wander Portoferraio’s old town to Forte Falcone and Fort Stella, then the Napoleonic residences for context on his 1814–15 exile. Start early for cooler air and quieter lanes; coffee by the Darsena before climbing the bastions.
• Midday: Head to the White Coast: taxi-boat or a short small-group cruise to Sansone/Capo Bianco for a first swim and snorkel (rock shoes help on pebbles). If a Maestrale is blowing, the water can be choppy here—switch to the more sheltered southern beaches.
• Afternoon: Walk the Enfola Peninsula loop (about 60–90 minutes) past WWII bunkers with huge views back to Portoferraio. Pack water and a hat; paths are exposed and the scent of wild rosemary is strong in spring.
• Evening: Aperitivo on Portoferraio’s harbour walls, then seafood in the old town. In shoulder season, stroll part of the new Cammino della Rada around the bay for sunset light without the summer crowds.

Day 2: West Coast by boat – caves, coves and a sunset

Today is about the sea: granite headlands, sea caves and the famous Pomonte wreck. Opt for a self-drive gommone (no licence needed up to 40 hp) or a skippered small-group for a relaxed pace.

• Morning: Depart Marina di Campo around 09:00 after a safety and route briefing; ask the operator for a fuel estimate and local wind advice. Aim first for Cavoli and Fetovaia to anchor before the flotillas arrive.
• Midday: Continue to Pomonte to snorkel the Elviscott wreck (anchor only on pale sand, not on dark Posidonia). Bring a buoy, mask and a thin wetsuit in spring; visibility is excellent on calm days.
• Afternoon: If seas are gentle, hug the coast towards Sant’Andrea for the Grotta Azzurra/Bue Marino and a swim at the natural rock pools called the Piscine. Respect distances (200 m from beaches, 100 m from cliffs) and leave no trace—some areas may have seasonal mooring buoys.
• Evening: Return to base by 17:00–18:00 for refuelling; consider a short sunset cruise with aperitivo if conditions are smooth. In July–August, pre-book boats and dinner in Marciana Marina; in May/September you’ll find easier parking and softer light.

Day 3: Mountain panoramas and the southern coves

Swap decks for boots this morning and taste Elba’s granite heights, then unwind on the gentler southern shores. You’ll see why locals split their free days between ridge walks and quiet calette.

• Morning: Summit Monte Capanne from Marciana on trail 101 (steep, rocky; 3 hours up) or ride the open-air cabinovia if it’s operating (typically late spring–early autumn; check hours). Wear grippy shoes, carry at least 2 litres of water per person and a light layer—winds can be brisk at 1,000 m.
• Midday: Picnic by the Sanctuary of Madonna del Monte or grab an espresso in Poggio’s shaded lanes, then drive east to Lacona. Families can book a taxi-boat to the Gemini islets for easy snorkelling in clear, sheltered water.
• Afternoon: Choose a quiet southern cove: Laconella or Felciaio for relaxed swims away from beach crowds; bring a mask to spot bream over sandy patches. If you prefer geology, detour to the green lake at Terranera for photos and swim in the adjacent sea cove (not in the lake itself).
• Evening: Dinner in Capoliveri’s hilltop alleys or on Porto Azzurro’s piazza after a gentle stroll along the Carmignani coastal path. Shoulder-season sunsets are glorious and the lanes stay lively without the August crush.

By Air

• Elba Island Airport (Marina di Campo; IATA: EBA) has seasonal/regional flights (small aircraft). Typical routes run to/from Pisa, Florence and (in some seasons) Milan and Lugano. Flight times: 40–70 minutes. Check current schedules; services vary by season.
• Transfer times on Elba: Marina di Campo 5–10 minutes; Procchio 10–15 minutes; Portoferraio 20–30 minutes by road (bus, taxi or hire car).
• Nearest mainland airports for the ferry:
  • Pisa (PSA): about 1 hr 30 mins by car to Piombino ferry port; 1 hr 30–2 hrs by train.
  • Florence (FLR): about 2–2 hr 30 mins by car; 2 hr 30–3 hrs by train.
  • Rome Fiumicino (FCO): about 2 hr 45 mins–3 hrs 15 mins by car; 3–4 hrs by train.
  • Bologna (BLQ): about 3–3 hr 30 mins by car; 3 hr 30 mins–4 hr 30 mins by train.

By Train

• Target station: Piombino Marittima (adjacent to the ferry terminal). Most routes run to Campiglia Marittima, then a branch line to Piombino and Piombino Marittima.
• Typical journey times (including the change at Campiglia):
  • Pisa Centrale: 1 hr 30 mins–2 hrs.
  • Firenze S. Maria Novella: 2 hr 30 mins–3 hrs.
  • Roma Termini: 3–3 hr 45 mins.
  • Milano Centrale: 4 hr 30 mins–5 hr 30 mins (via Pisa/Florence).
• Buy a through-ticket to Piombino Marittima; regional services are more frequent in summer.

By Car

• Drive to Piombino Marittima (signed “Imbarco Elba/Traghetti”). Main approaches:
  • From Pisa/Livorno: SGC FI-PI-LI then SS206/SS1 (E80/Aurelia) south; about 1 hr 30 mins from Pisa.
  • From Florence: SGC FI-PI-LI to SS206/SS1; about 2–2 hr 30 mins.
  • From Rome: A12/E80 then SS1 north; about 2 hr 45 mins–3 hrs 15 mins.
• You can take a car on the ferry; pre-book July–August. Arrive 30–60 minutes before departure. Long-stay parking is available near the port with shuttle services if leaving the car on the mainland.

By Ferry

• Mainland port: Piombino. Elba ports: Portoferraio (main), Rio Marina, Cavo.
• Operators: Moby, Toremar, Blu Navy, and (seasonally) Corsica/Elba Ferries.
• Crossing times (typical):
  • Piombino–Portoferraio: 40–60 minutes (car ferries); hydrofoils for foot passengers only are faster when scheduled.
  • Piombino–Rio Marina: about 45–50 minutes.
  • Piombino–Cavo: 20–35 minutes (usually hydrofoil/fast ferry; foot passengers).
• Frequency: up to every 30–60 minutes in peak season on the main route. Book ahead in summer; foot passengers usually have more flexibility.