Crete

Day 1: Chania old town flavours and foothills

Ease into Crete via Chania’s Venetian lanes and the island’s food culture. Keep meals late (locals dine after 9 pm) and plan activity early/late to respect the sun; use the hot hours for shade and long lunches.

• Morning: Wander the backstreets around the harbour and into the Splantzia district for a Greek coffee at a traditional kafeneio; order a dakos and ask for chima krasi if brunch turns leisurely. If it’s a market day, browse the laiki agora for local cheeses, thyme honey, herbs, and olives.
• Midday: Drive or cycle the Theriso Gorge road (shaded, scenic, low effort) and lunch in a village taverna with paper tablecloths; ask “Ti echiete simerino?” and get horta, snails or slow-cooked goat. In summer, sit under trees and sip raki slowly—remember it’s sipped, not shot.
• Afternoon: Beach break at a town strand or siesta time; the Cretan sun is fiercest 13:00–16:00, so hydrate (2L+ per person) and use SPF 30–50. If you fancy a spin, explore quiet agricultural lanes around Apokoronas (Vamos) on a gravel/trekking bike; always close gates behind you.
• Evening: Back in Chania, choose a rakadiko in the alleys (not the waterfront) for mezedes to share—kalitsounia, grilled vegetables, and local graviera. Expect a kerasma (complimentary raki and dessert) at the end; say “Efcharisto” and toast “Yia mas!”.

Day 2: Samaria Gorge and the Libyan Sea

Today is about Crete’s legendary walking culture, descending from the White Mountains to the sea. Spring and autumn are ideal; in summer start at dawn and in winter high routes can be closed—always check the park status and weather.

• Morning: Take the early KTEL bus or transfer to Xyloskalo (Omalos) to enter Samaria National Park (ticket required; sturdy footwear compulsory). Pace yourself on the 16 km descent; refill at signed springs and greet fellow walkers with a friendly “Yia sas”.
• Midday: Pass the abandoned village, watch for kri-kri, and move through the Iron Gates when shade reaches the canyon floor. Snack on paximadi, olives, and cheese; carry 2–3 litres of water per person (more in July–August).
• Afternoon: Reach Agia Roumeli for a swim and late lunch at a psarotaverna—choose the catch from a tray and have it grilled simply with lemon and olive oil. Catch the ANENDYK ferry to Chora Sfakion (or Sougia) and admire the E4 coastal cliffs en route.
• Evening: Dine in Chora Sfakion on sfakiani pita (cheese-filled pie with honey) and house wine; meals run late and unhurried. If you’ve energy, stroll the quay or book a simple room and fall asleep to the Libyan Sea; otherwise take the connecting bus back to your base.

Day 3: Rethymno, Amari Valley, and modern Cretan cuisine

Blend light activity with vineyard-dotted scenery and inventive island cooking. This is a day to travel siga-siga—slowly—with time for a long country lunch and a refined dinner.

• Morning: Drive to the Amari Valley behind Rethymno for a quiet road cycle (rolling lanes among olive groves and frescoed chapels) or an easy village-to-village stroll; spring wildflowers and autumn light are sublime. Stop at a kafeneio for a Greek coffee and a tiny meze.
• Midday: Book a farm-to-table agrotourism lunch or a rustic taverna in a small square; ask for seasonal dishes (lathera in summer, bean soups and pork with celery in winter). Try local Vidiano or Liatiko by the carafe; designate a driver if tasting.
• Afternoon: Continue to Rethymno’s old town for a shaded wander through alleys and hidden courtyards; seek out artisan shops and a cool gelato. In high heat, aim for a late-afternoon swim at a nearby beach and return as the stones lose their glare.
• Evening: Reserve a modern Cretan restaurant in Rethymno (or back in Chania/Heraklion) showcasing “New Cretan” cuisine—hyper-local ingredients, contemporary techniques. Dine from 21:00 onwards to join the local rhythm; finish with yoghurt and honey, and a small tsikoudia on the house.

By Air

• Airports on Crete:
  • Heraklion (HER) – main gateway; 10–20 min to city centre by taxi; city bus every 10–15 min (≈15 min).
  • Chania (CHQ) – 25–30 min to Chania by taxi; KTEL bus 30–40 min.
  • Sitia (JSH) – 5–10 min to Sitia town by taxi.
• Flight times (non-stop):
  • Athens to Heraklion/Chania: 50–55 min (several daily).
  • Thessaloniki to Heraklion/Chania: ≈1 hr 10 min.
  • London to Heraklion/Chania: ≈4–4½ hrs (seasonal direct); Paris ≈3½–4 hrs; Rome ≈2 hrs.
• Notes: Extensive seasonal direct flights Mar–Nov from UK, Germany, France, Italy, Netherlands, Nordics. Limited inter-island flights (e.g., to Santorini/Rhodes) mainly in summer.

By Sea (Ferry)

• Main ports on Crete:
  • Heraklion (walkable to centre), Souda–Chania (10–15 min to town), Rethymno (seasonal routes), Sitia, Agios Nikolaos (occasional).
• From Athens (Piraeus):
  • To Heraklion and to Chania (Souda): daily, year-round overnights; ≈8½–11 hrs. Summer daytime high-speeds on some dates (≈6–7½ hrs).
  • To Sitia/Agios Nikolaos (via island stops): a few times weekly; ≈12–19 hrs.
• Cyclades connections (Apr–Oct, frequency varies):
  • Santorini (Thira)–Heraklion: fast ferries ≈2–2½ hrs; conventional ≈4–6 hrs.
  • Mykonos/Paros/Naxos–Heraklion: usually via Santorini; ≈4½–6½ hrs.
• Dodecanese:
  • Rhodes/Karpathos/Kasos–Sitia/Heraklion: long multi-stop routes; ≈7–20 hrs (not daily).
• South coast local ferries (Chania prefecture, Apr–Oct): Paleochora–Sougia–Agia Roumeli–Loutro–Chora Sfakion (for Samaria and E4).
• Operators/booking: Attica Group (Blue Star/ANEK/Superfast) and Minoan Lines cover most routes. Book early in summer; vehicles and cabins sell out.

By Train

• No rail to Crete. Use trains to reach Athens/Piraeus for ferries:
  • Thessaloniki–Athens (Larissa Station): ≈4 hrs (InterCity). From Athens, Metro Line 1 or suburban railway to Piraeus Port ≈25–60 min.
  • Athens International Airport–Piraeus: suburban railway or Metro ≈65–75 min; express bus X96 ≈50–90 min (traffic dependent).

By Car

• You cannot drive to Crete directly; cars go on ferries.
  • Drive to Piraeus for overnight car ferries to Heraklion/Chania. Check-in with vehicle 1–2 hrs before departure.
  • From Patras (arrivals from Italy): Patras–Piraeus ≈2½–3 hrs. From Igoumenitsa: ≈5½–6½ hrs.
• On Crete for onward travel: the North Coast Road (BOAK) links major towns.
  • Chania–Rethymno ≈1–1¼ hrs; Chania–Heraklion ≈2–2½ hrs; Heraklion–Agios Nikolaos ≈50–60 min. Roads to the south are mountainous and slower.

By Bus (useful connections to reach ferries/for onward travel)

• Athens Airport–Piraeus: express bus X96 24/7 (≈50–90 min).
• On Crete: KTEL intercity bus stations in Chania and Heraklion provide frequent services to Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos and major resorts; airport buses link to each city’s KTEL hub.