Costa de la Luz

Day 1: Huelva’s wild north – Doñana, El Rompido and big-sky sands

Ease into the Costa de la Luz on Huelva’s gentler, family‑friendly shores, where endless dunes meet pine forests. Bring shade, water and check the tide tables; low tide opens vast walking space and tidal pools, high tide narrows coves.

• Morning: Start at Matalascañas with a stroll to the Torre de la Higuera and the edge of Doñana’s virgin shoreline; if available, book a Doñana 4x4 beach tour for a rare look at Playa del Coto. Aim to arrive before 10:00 in July–August to beat parking and heat.
• Midday: Drive to El Rompido and take the short ferry to the Flecha del Rompido sandbar for a picnic and swim on its pristine Atlantic side. Pack light (no facilities on the outer beach) and mind the return ferry times with the tide.
• Afternoon: Go for an easy promenade-and-dip at Punta Umbría, a Blue Flag beach with lifeguards, showers and cafés. If you prefer quieter sands, Isla Canela near Ayamonte offers a huge, breezy sweep ideal for long walks.
• Evening: Fresh seafood in El Rompido’s harbour (book 14:00–16:00 for lunch or after 20:30 for dinner; kitchens run late). Sunset here is west‑facing and spectacular; carry a light windbreaker as ocean breezes cool quickly.

Day 2: Cádiz city, coves and golden hours – La Caleta, La Victoria, Roche, La Barrosa

Shift to Cádiz province for a blend of living history and dramatic coastline. Keep an eye on the wind: if the levante blows, sheltered spots like La Caleta and the Calas de Roche become havens.

• Morning: Wander Cádiz old town to the cathedral and market, then swim at La Caleta between its two small castles. Time your visit around the tide—at low tide the rock pools appear; at high tide space is tight.
• Midday: Long chiringuito lunch on Playa de la Victoria’s promenade (pescaíto frito and a cold beer are the classics). In peak season, reserve; locals eat from 14:00–16:00.
• Afternoon: Drive to the Calas de Roche (e.g., Cala del Aceite) for cliff‑sheltered coves reached by steps—great when levante is strong. Bring snorkel gear and note that at high tide some coves nearly disappear.
• Evening: Golden‑hour walk along La Barrosa with views towards Sancti Petri island, once linked to the ancient Temple of Hercules‑Melqart. For dinner, arrive after 20:30 and consider parking a few streets back; beachfront spots fill fast in July–August.

Day 3: Wild south – Bolonia, Tarifa winds and El Palmar sunset

Today is the Costa de la Luz at full drama: Roman ruins, shifting dunes and the wind capital of Europe. Check the forecast—poniente is breezy and cooler, levante is hot and powerful (choose sheltered alternatives if it howls).

• Morning: Get to Bolonia early for Baelo Claudia before the heat, then climb the vast dune for Strait‑of‑Gibraltar views and a refreshing swim. Parking is limited in summer; arrive by 09:30.
• Midday: Tuna tasting in Zahara de los Atunes (almadraba season runs late spring), or a relaxed chiringuito lunch back in Bolonia. If you notice accumulations of seaweed onshore around Tarifa, walk 5–10 minutes to find clearer patches.
• Afternoon: Watch or try a kitesurfing lesson at Valdevaqueros/Los Lances in Tarifa; beginners should book ahead in season. If levante is sand‑blasting the beach, detour to Punta Paloma’s dune for a scenic hike or retreat to a sheltered Cádiz city beach.
• Evening: Drift up to El Palmar for mellow surf vibes and one of Andalusia’s best sunsets. Respect local rules on campervan overnighting (fines are enforced) and linger for late dinner as the beach bars come alive after dusk.

By Air

• Jerez (XRY): Closest to the Cádiz coast. Drive times: Cádiz 35–40 min; El Puerto de Santa María 25 min; Chiclana/La Barrosa 40–45 min; Conil 50–60 min; Tarifa 1h 20–1h 30. Rail from the airport to Jerez (10–15 min) and Cádiz (45–60 min).
• Seville (SVQ): Largest hub for both provinces. Drive: Huelva 1h 10; Punta Umbría 1h 15; Matalascañas 1h 20; Cádiz 1h 20; Conil 1h 30–1h 45; Tarifa ~2h. Frequent buses from Seville to Cádiz/Tarifa (Comes) and Huelva/coast (Damas).
• Gibraltar (GIB): Handy for Tarifa/Zahara/Algeciras. Drive: Algeciras 25 min; Tarifa ~45 min; Zahara ~1h. Walk across the border to La Línea bus station (5–10 min) for buses to Algeciras/Tarifa.
• Málaga (AGP): Major international coverage. Drive: Algeciras 1h 45–2h; Tarifa ~2h 15; Cádiz 2h 15–2h 30. Direct buses to Algeciras; onward buses to Tarifa/Cádiz.
• Faro, Portugal (FAO): Best for western Huelva. Drive: Ayamonte/Isla Canela 1h–1h 15; Isla Cristina/Islantilla 1h 15; Huelva 1h 30–1h 45. Note A22 tolls and cross‑border hire rules.

By Train

• Madrid–Cádiz (via Jerez, El Puerto, San Fernando): Renfe Alvia ~4h 20–4h 45, several daily.
• Seville–Cádiz: Media Distancia/Alvia ~1h 35–1h 55; stops include Jerez, El Puerto, San Fernando.
• Cádiz Bay Cercanías (C‑1): Cádiz–San Fernando–Puerto Real–El Puerto–Jerez–Jerez Airport (up to hourly); Cádiz–Jerez ~45–55 min.
• Seville–Huelva: Media Distancia ~1h 30–1h 45 to Huelva‑Término; buses onward to Punta Umbría, Islantilla, Isla Cristina, Matalascañas.
• No rail to Tarifa, Conil, Zahara, El Palmar, Matalascañas; use nearest stations (Cádiz/Jerez or Huelva) plus bus. For Tarifa, nearest railhead is Algeciras, then bus (~35–45 min).

By Bus

• Main hubs: Seville (Plaza de Armas/Prado de San Sebastián), Cádiz, Algeciras, Huelva.
• Operators: TG Comes (Cádiz province, incl. Cádiz–Conil–Vejer–Tarifa–Algeciras; Seville–Cádiz/Tarifa), Damas (Huelva province/coast incl. Punta Umbría, Islantilla, Isla Cristina, Matalascañas), ALSA/Socibus (long‑distance to/from Madrid).
• Typical journey times: Seville–Cádiz 1h 45–2h 15; Seville–Tarifa 2h 45–3h 15; Seville–Matalascañas ~1h 30; Cádiz–Conil 45–60 min; Cádiz–Tarifa 1h 45–2h.
• Airports: From Gibraltar, walk to La Línea for buses to Algeciras/Tarifa. From Málaga Airport, direct buses to Algeciras (2h 30–3h), then to Tarifa (30–40 min).

By Car

• Main routes: A‑49 Seville–Huelva–Ayamonte (Portugal) with A‑483 spur to Matalascañas; AP‑4/A‑4 Seville–Jerez–Cádiz; A‑48 (Autovía de la Costa de la Luz) Cádiz/San Fernando–Conil/Vejer; N‑340 to Tarifa; A‑381 Jerez–Los Barrios (for Algeciras/Tarifa); A‑7 around Algeciras.
• Approximate drive times: Seville–Cádiz 1h 15–1h 30; Seville–Conil 1h 30–1h 45; Seville–Tarifa ~2h; Seville–Huelva ~1h 10; Seville–Isla Cristina/Islantilla 1h 30–1h 45.
• Portugal border: A22 (toll) to/from Faro; electronic tolls apply.