Costa Brava

Day 1: Understated chic on the central coast (Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu)

Ease into the Costa Brava with a slow, elegant day between former fishing villages where promenades, pine-framed coves and long lunches set the rhythm. Base yourself around Palafrugell for easy hub-and-spoke exploring; shoulder season brings the sweet spot of warmth with calmer crowds.

• Morning: Sunrise dip at Port Bo in Calella de Palafrugell, then follow the Camí de Ronda to Llafranc and up to the Far de Sant Sebastià viewpoint for sweeping coastal views. Go early in July–August, wear grippy shoes for steps, and carry water (drought restrictions can mean beach showers are off).
• Midday: Settle into a long seaside lunch in Calella or Llafranc (book ahead in peak season and ask for the menú del dia). If you prefer a picnic, stock up at the Palafrugell market halls; aim to sit in shade and embrace an unhurried 14:00 start like the locals.
• Afternoon: Kayak or snorkel from Tamariu to pine-backed coves; on calm days you’ll find crystalline water and rock pools. Keen walkers can take the steep 30-minute path to Cala Pedrosa (the rustic shack opens mainly in summer; bring cash and proper footwear).
• Evening: Join the passeig along the promenade, then a late dinner after 21:00 and a vermut. In early July, the havaneres singing in Calella de Palafrugell draws crowds—arrive well before sunset; otherwise catch sunset light at Sant Sebastià and greet with a friendly “Bona nit”.

Day 2: Bohemian north and wild headlands (Cadaqués & Cap de Creus)

Today pivots to the region’s artistic soul and its raw, wind-sculpted landscapes. The drive to Cadaqués is winding and scenic; arrive early for parking and to feel the village wake gently.

• Morning: Park on the edge of Cadaqués and wander its whitewashed lanes to a harbour coffee. Walk or taxi to Portlligat for Dalí’s House (timed tickets sell out—prebook); if the tramuntana is blowing, pack a layer as wind-chill can surprise even in sunshine.
• Midday: Lunch in Cadaqués on simple rice dishes or the catch of the day; service is relaxed and designed for lingering. If restaurants are full in peak season, picnic at Platja d’es Llaner or Portlligat and swim between courses.
• Afternoon: Drive or hike out to the Cap de Creus lighthouse and explore short trails to coves such as Cala Jugadora and Cala Fredosa. Seas can be rough under northerlies—skip swimming if whitecaps build; there’s little shade, so bring water and a hat.
• Evening: Golden-hour amble back in Cadaqués—try the church steps for a pastel-hued sunset—then dinner by the waterfront. If the weather turns or you crave more Dalí, swap the headland hike for the Theatre-Museum in Figueres (check opening hours) and return post-dinner to your base.

Day 3: Medieval villages, wine country and working harbours (Empordà & Palamós)

Shift inland to sandstone lanes and vineyard rows before reconnecting with a living fishing port. The pace is reflective: history in the morning, terroir at lunch, and the sea’s daily rhythm by late afternoon.

• Morning: Arrive early in Pals for village views from the tower, then continue to Peratallada for cobbles, arches and coffee in the plaça. Sundays add bustle at the Palafrugell market; a cheerful “Bon dia” goes a long way.
• Midday: Head to a DO Empordà winery (for example, Terra Remota or Masia Serra) for a tasting and light lunch—book ahead and plan a designated driver. In high summer, schedule tastings indoors or under vines to escape the heat.
• Afternoon: Drive to Palamós for the Fishing Museum and harbour stroll; timing can align with the afternoon fish auction (weekdays—check times locally). Prefer the water? From L’Estartit, boats and guided snorkelling trips reveal the Medes Islands’ marine reserve.
• Evening: Dine in Begur town on tapas and local wine or head down to Sa Riera for a barefoot, golden-hour swim and beachfront grilled fish; parking is tight in July–August, so arrive early or walk down. South-coast alternative: a late wander and dinner inside Tossa de Mar’s walled old town before a relaxed return.

By Air

• Barcelona-El Prat (BCN): Major international hub.
  • Drive: approx. 1–1 h 15 to Blanes/Lloret; 1 h 30–1 h 45 to Palafrugell/Calella de Palafrugell/Begur; ~2 h 30 to Cadaqués.
  • Transfers: Sagalés buses to Girona (about 1 h 45) and to Lloret/Blanes; frequent Moventis Sarfa buses to Costa Brava towns from Barcelona Estació del Nord; trains to Girona/Figueres then bus to the coast.
• Girona–Costa Brava (GRO): Closest airport to the region (12 km from Girona).
  • Drive: 30–40 min to Lloret; 55–70 min to Palafrugell/Begur; ~55 min to Roses; 1 h 30–1 h 45 to Cadaqués.
  • Transfers: Sagalés/Moventis buses to Girona city, Lloret/Blanes and seasonal services to coastal towns; taxis and car hire on site.
• Perpignan–Rivesaltes (PGF), France: Useful for northern Costa Brava.
  • Drive: ~1 h to Portbou; ~1 h 10 to Roses; ~1 h 30 to Cadaqués.
  • Transfers: Trains Perpignan–Cerbère/Portbou then regional to Figueres/Girona; local buses onward.

By Train

• High-speed (AVE/AVANT): Barcelona Sants–Girona 38–45 min; Barcelona Sants–Figueres Vilafant 55–65 min; Madrid–Girona ~3 h 30 (via Barcelona).
• Regional lines:
  • R1: Barcelona–Blanes (for southern Costa Brava), then bus to Lloret/Tossa (10–40 min).
  • R11: Barcelona (Sants/El Clot Aragó)–Girona–Figueres–Portbou for inland hubs.
• Local hubs for coastal buses: Girona and Figueres (mainline) and Figueres Vilafant (high-speed, shuttle/bus to town).
  • Typical bus connections: Girona–Lloret 45–60 min; Girona–Palamós/Palafrugell 1 h 15–1 h 35; Figueres–Roses 30–40 min; Figueres–Cadaqués 1 h 10–1 h 25.

By Bus

• Barcelona Estació del Nord: Main hub for Moventis Sarfa services to the coast.
  • Typical times: Barcelona–Lloret 1 h 15–1 h 30; Tossa 1 h 35–1 h 50; Palamós ~2 h; Palafrugell/Llafranc/Tamariu 2 h 10–2 h 30; Begur 2 h 15–2 h 45; L’Estartit ~2 h 30; Roses ~2 h 30; Cadaqués ~3 h.
• Barcelona Airport (T1/T2): Sagalés buses to Girona (~1 h 45) and to Lloret/Blanes; seasonal direct services to some Costa Brava towns.
• Girona and Figueres bus stations: Key interchange points for Moventis Sarfa routes to most coastal villages.

By Car

• Main routes: AP-7/E-15 (France–La Jonquera–Girona–Barcelona); C-32 (Barcelona–Blanes); C-31/C-65 (Girona–Palamós/Palafrugell/Begur); C-260 (Figueres/Girona–Roses).
• Typical drive times:
  • From Barcelona: Lloret 1–1 h 15; Tossa ~1 h 30; Palamós/Palafrugell 1 h 30–1 h 45; Begur ~1 h 45; Roses ~1 h 50; Cadaqués ~2 h 30.
  • From Girona: Palamós/Palafrugell/Begur 45–70 min; Roses ~50 min; Cadaqués ~1 h 30.
  • From France (border at La Jonquera): Roses ~1 h; Cadaqués ~1 h 30.
• Notes: The GI-682 between Lloret–Tossa–Sant Feliu is scenic but slow and winding. Summer parking in popular coves/towns is limited and often paid.