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Day 1: Calvi, Scandola and the Balagne villages
Ease into Corsica with a west‑coast day that blends sea cliffs, citadel views and fragrant maquis. Base yourself in Calvi; a small boat trip into the Scandola Reserve sets the wild, dramatic tone.
Morning: Arrive in Calvi and stroll the citadel ramparts with a coffee on the marina; then board a small-boat cruise to Scandola and Girolata (book ahead in July–August; bring a windproof layer as the Libecciu wind can make seas choppy).
Midday: Swim stop and lunch in the tiny, boat-only hamlet of Girolata (some spots are cash-only; follow reserve rules—no anchoring on Posidonia seagrass, no drone use). If the sea is rough, walk a shaded section of the Mare e Monti from Calenzana to Bonifatu instead (2–3 hours).
Afternoon: Beach time back in Calvi or e‑bike the Balagne hill villages (Pigna, Sant’Antonino) for craft shops and olive groves; note many village doors close for siesta ~12:30–16:00.
Evening: Sunset apéro on the citadel walls and dinner in the vieille ville (try charcuterie, brocciu and canistrelli). A simple “Bonjour/Bonsoir” or “Bonghjornu” to staff sets the right tone; reserve tables in peak season.
Day 2: Corte and the Restonica Valley
Head to the island’s mountain heart for alpine lakes, granite gorges and a dose of Corsican soul. Start early: summer heat and afternoon storms are common, and the Restonica road uses a shuttle in high season.
Morning: Drive to Corte (about 1.5 hours from Calvi) and continue up the Restonica Valley; hike to Lac de Melo (rocky trail, ~2 hours return) or add Lac de Capitello (+1 hour with short chains/scramble). Carry 2 litres of water per person and grippy footwear; weather can turn quickly.
By Air
Main airports on the island:
Ajaccio (AJA) – 7 km/15 min to city centre.
Bastia Poretta (BIA) – 20 km/25–35 min to Bastia.
Calvi Sainte-Catherine (CLY) – 7 km/10 min to Calvi.
Figari South Corsica (FSC) – ~23 km/25–35 min to Porto-Vecchio; ~20 km/25–30 min to Bonifacio.
Typical flight times: Paris 1h45–2h; Marseille ~55 min; Nice 40–50 min; Lyon ~1h10. Seasonal direct flights from many European cities (e.g., London, Geneva, Brussels).
Key carriers: Air Corsica, Air France, easyJet, Volotea, Transavia.
Ground transport: limited scheduled buses; taxis available; car hire recommended.
Corsica delivers a crowd-light Mediterranean escape, trading bustle for raw beauty, living culture and big adventures.
Atmosphere: Wild yet welcoming “mountain-in-the-sea” vibes—think Bonifacio’s cliff-top citadel, the herb-scented maquis and quiet hill villages—at a calmer pace than packed resort coasts.
Living culture: Corsicanità lives in Corte’s old town and Balagne villages (Pigna, Sant’Antonino), polyphonic paghjella sung in stone churches, Genoese towers on Cap Corse, and markets in Ajaccio and Bastia; fuel up on charcuterie, brocciu, chestnut pulenta and fiadone.
Nature & adventure: Hike the GR20 or Mare e Monti, swim the Restonica pools, ride the GT20 over cols like Vergio and Bavella, or sail past Scandola and the Lavezzi (with eco-moorings); spring and autumn mean blue skies and breathing room.
Authenticity & value: Swap glitz for fishing harbours and mountain bergeries; stay in village gîtes in the Castagniccia or Niolo for warmer welcomes and better prices; seek quieter coves like Campomoro and remote sands like Saleccia outside peak summer.
If you crave wild nature, rich culture and real-deal adventure, Corsica will win you over. Rugged and reserved, it’s nothing like the glitzy French Riviera—think granite peaks above turquoise bays and villages where tradition still leads. Come for perfumed maquis, quiet roads, and hospitality that rewards curiosity and respect.
Scenery seekers: Marvel at the red cliffs of the Calanques de Piana, windswept Cap Corse, and aquamarine coves you can smell before you see.
Active travellers: Tackle the legendary GR20, opt for gentler Mare a Mare/Mare e Monti, or ride the island-long GT20—with canyoning, climbing and trail running in between.
Sailors & water lovers: Thread Bonifacio’s fjord-like harbour, snorkel the protected Scandola reserve, and find glassy waters in September—far calmer than peak summer.
History lovers: Time-travel via Genoese towers, cliff citadels (Bonifacio, Calvi) and Paoli’s Corte—the epicentre of Corsican independence.
Foodies: Feast on farmhouse charcuterie, brocciu and chestnut cookery at rustic auberges, then stock up at lively morning markets.
City-breakers: Base in Ajaccio or Bastia for museums, waterfront dining and easy rail links into wild interiors—urban buzz without big-city sprawl.
These are the unmissable highlights of Corsica, the Mediterranean’s “mountain in the sea”. From dramatic citadels to wild reserves and epic trails, they capture the island’s fierce beauty and spirit.
Walk the clifftop lanes of Bonifacio’s citadel and gaze over the sheer limestone cliffs to Sardinia.
Explore the UNESCO-listed Scandola Nature Reserve by boat from Calvi or Porto, spotting sea stacks and wildlife.
Visit the Calanques de Piana to admire otherworldly red granite on a coastal drive or by kayak.
Take the Cap Corse loop for windswept villages, Genoese towers and secluded coves around the peninsula.
Hike to Lac de Melo and Capitello in the Restonica Valley for sparkling alpine pools amid soaring granite.
These are the unmissable highlights of Corsica, the Mediterranean’s “mountain in the sea”. From dramatic citadels to wild reserves and epic trails, they capture the island’s fierce beauty and spirit.
Walk the clifftop lanes of Bonifacio’s citadel and gaze over the sheer limestone cliffs to Sardinia.
Explore the UNESCO-listed Scandola Nature Reserve by boat from Calvi or Porto, spotting sea stacks and wildlife.
Visit the Calanques de Piana to admire otherworldly red granite on a coastal drive or by kayak.
Take the Cap Corse loop for windswept villages, Genoese towers and secluded coves around the peninsula.
Hike to Lac de Melo and Capitello in the Restonica Valley for sparkling alpine pools amid soaring granite.
Corsican cooking is rustic, seasonal, and fiercely local. Expect chestnut, wild herbs, brocciu cheese, mountain meats and Mediterranean fish. Eat in simple cafés, village markets, and farm auberges.
Charcuterie corse – Air‑dried mountain meats like prisuttu, coppa and lonzu (plus seasonal figatellu) with crusty bread and pickles. Order generous boards in village bars or at morning markets; the vibe is convivial and proudly local.
Brocciu & fiadone – Fresh ewe/goat’s cheese used in savouries and in fiadone, a light lemony cheesecake. Find it in simple cafés and pâtisseries; best in spring when brocciu is at its peak.
Civet de sanglier (wild boar stew) – Slow‑cooked with red wine, myrtle and maquis herbs; rich, aromatic and comforting. Share it at a rustic auberge or bergerie; long tables, local wine, unhurried service.
Corsican wines & apéritifs – Patrimonio reds, Vermentinu whites, Muscat du Cap Corse, bittersweet Cap Corse quinquina (plus Pietra chestnut beer). Sip on terraces at sunset or in old‑town wine bars; staff love to recommend small producers.
Choosing where to stay in Corsica is about picking the base that matches your vibe and plans. Distances are longer than they look, so choose for beaches, mountains, history or quiet to minimise driving and maximise enjoyment.
Calvi & La Balagne — Laid‑back seaside with pretty hill villages, easy little train, family beaches and scenic road rides; ideal for first‑timers wanting sea, food and gentle hikes.
Bonifacio & Porto‑Vecchio (South) — Spectacular cliffs and glamorous bays (Palombaggia, Santa Giulia), buzzing July–August scene and top boat days; perfect for beach lovers but pricey and crowded in peak.
Corte & Restonica Valley (Interior) — Proud mountain heart with rivers and high‑alpine hikes (Lac de Melo/Capitello, GR20 access); best for walkers and authenticity seekers with a car and early starts.
Cap Corse & Saint‑Florent — Wild peninsula drives, quiet hamlets and Agriates’ remote beaches by boat/4x4; suits solitude, photography and cycling more than nightlife.
Choosing where to stay in Corsica is about picking the base that matches your vibe and plans. Distances are longer than they look, so choose for beaches, mountains, history or quiet to minimise driving and maximise enjoyment.
Calvi & La Balagne — Laid‑back seaside with pretty hill villages, easy little train, family beaches and scenic road rides; ideal for first‑timers wanting sea, food and gentle hikes.
Bonifacio & Porto‑Vecchio (South) — Spectacular cliffs and glamorous bays (Palombaggia, Santa Giulia), buzzing July–August scene and top boat days; perfect for beach lovers but pricey and crowded in peak.
Corte & Restonica Valley (Interior) — Proud mountain heart with rivers and high‑alpine hikes (Lac de Melo/Capitello, GR20 access); best for walkers and authenticity seekers with a car and early starts.
Cap Corse & Saint‑Florent — Wild peninsula drives, quiet hamlets and Agriates’ remote beaches by boat/4x4; suits solitude, photography and cycling more than nightlife.
Corsica is easy to enjoy, with compact towns, good roads and plenty of services, but its “mountain in the sea” geography means journeys take longer than they look and summer bookings matter. With a little advance planning on transport and timing, you’ll find it relaxed, safe and rewarding.
Affordability: Expect mid-to-high Mediterranean prices, with simple lunches €12–20, dinner mains €18–30 (two courses for two €60–90), beer €6–8, coffee €2.50–3.50, summer hotels €120–250+ in coastal hubs (cheaper gîtes/refuges €15–40 inland).
Transport: Historic centres are walkable, but to reach beaches, villages and mountains a car is best; the little train links Bastia–Corte–Ajaccio/Calvi, buses are limited, summer shuttles serve some beaches/trails, and ferries connect both to mainland France/Italy and local islets.
Language: French is the main language and Corsican is widely heard; English is understood in tourist areas but less so inland, so a few phrases (or even “Bonghjornu” and “Grazie”) go a long way.
Safety & comfort: Generally very safe for families and solo travellers; take care on narrow mountain roads, start hikes early and carry water, heed beach currents and wildfire/park-closure notices, and watch for petty theft only in busy summer spots.
Crowds: July–August are very busy (book cars, beds and tables early), May–June and September–October offer the best balance of warmth and calm, and November–March is very quiet with many coastal businesses closed.
Corsica is easy to enjoy, with compact towns, good roads and plenty of services, but its “mountain in the sea” geography means journeys take longer than they look and summer bookings matter. With a little advance planning on transport and timing, you’ll find it relaxed, safe and rewarding.
Affordability: Expect mid-to-high Mediterranean prices, with simple lunches €12–20, dinner mains €18–30 (two courses for two €60–90), beer €6–8, coffee €2.50–3.50, summer hotels €120–250+ in coastal hubs (cheaper gîtes/refuges €15–40 inland).
Transport: Historic centres are walkable, but to reach beaches, villages and mountains a car is best; the little train links Bastia–Corte–Ajaccio/Calvi, buses are limited, summer shuttles serve some beaches/trails, and ferries connect both to mainland France/Italy and local islets.
Language: French is the main language and Corsican is widely heard; English is understood in tourist areas but less so inland, so a few phrases (or even “Bonghjornu” and “Grazie”) go a long way.
Safety & comfort: Generally very safe for families and solo travellers; take care on narrow mountain roads, start hikes early and carry water, heed beach currents and wildfire/park-closure notices, and watch for petty theft only in busy summer spots.
Crowds: July–August are very busy (book cars, beds and tables early), May–June and September–October offer the best balance of warmth and calm, and November–March is very quiet with many coastal businesses closed.
Seasonality in Corsica is marked: spring and early autumn bring mild weather, blossoms, and space to explore, while July–August means peak heat, prices, and crowds on the coast. Winter is quiet and introspective, with snow in the mountains and many services on the coast closed.
Spring (Apr–Jun): Mild to warm, maquis in bloom, lighter crowds; ideal for hiking, cycling and a more welcoming, authentic vibe.
High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (often 30°C+ at sea level) and crowded on coasts/ports with high prices; book ahead, start early, and expect a buzzy yet reserved local mood.
Autumn (Sep–Oct): Warm sea and comfortable days, fewer visitors, soft golden light; relaxed, contemplative feel, with a higher chance of storms late October.
Seasonality in Corsica is marked: spring and early autumn bring mild weather, blossoms, and space to explore, while July–August means peak heat, prices, and crowds on the coast. Winter is quiet and introspective, with snow in the mountains and many services on the coast closed.
Spring (Apr–Jun): Mild to warm, maquis in bloom, lighter crowds; ideal for hiking, cycling and a more welcoming, authentic vibe.
High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (often 30°C+ at sea level) and crowded on coasts/ports with high prices; book ahead, start early, and expect a buzzy yet reserved local mood.
Autumn (Sep–Oct): Warm sea and comfortable days, fewer visitors, soft golden light; relaxed, contemplative feel, with a higher chance of storms late October.
Midday: Picnic by the river pools or lunch at a bergerie (support local produce—pulenta, veal stew, fiadone). Don’t wash in springs; fill bottles and step away to rinse.
Afternoon: Cool off in emerald pools, or take the gentler Tavignano gorge walk (2–3 hours out-and-back). Back in Corte, visit the Corsica Museum inside the citadel for history and views.
Evening: Listen out for a polyphonic singing concert in a church or cultural centre (often advertised locally), then dine in the old town. Overnight in Corte (shorter drive tomorrow) or return to Calvi; either way, greet shopkeepers as you enter.
Day 3: Agriates desert beaches and Cap Corse
Finish with wild coastline: white sands, turquoise shallows and a cliff-top village. Today works well if you end near Bastia for a ferry/flight, but it’s also doable as a loop from Corte or Calvi.
Morning: Drive to Saint‑Florent and take a boat taxi to Plage du Loto; walk the coastal path to Saleccia (45–60 minutes, little shade—hat and water essential). In July–August prebook boats; on very windy days, switch to an easier stretch of the customs path from Macinaggio to Tamarone.
Midday: Picnic under the pines behind Saleccia and snorkel the clear shallows; there are no services, so pack out all rubbish. Fire risk can close paths—check local advisories before setting out.
Afternoon: Boat back to Saint‑Florent, then drive up to Nonza on Cap Corse for a tower view over the black‑pebble beach and lemon granita on the square. Allow time for slow, winding roads and photo stops.
Evening: Farewell dinner on Bastia’s old port (or back in Calvi), tasting wines from Patrimonio. In high season, dine earlier or book; outside summer, expect a calmer, more local vibe with shorter opening hours.
Genoa (seasonal) ↔ Bastia/Ajaccio: ~10–11 hours.
From Sardinia:
Santa Teresa Gallura ↔ Bonifacio (Moby/Tirrenia, Ichnusa Lines): ~50 minutes, frequent in season.
Notes: Vehicles and foot passengers accepted. Book early for July–August. Vehicle check-in typically 1–2 hours before departure (2–3 hours peak); foot passengers 30–60 minutes.
By Train
No rail link to Corsica; use trains to reach ferry ports.
France (SNCF):
Paris Gare de Lyon → Marseille St‑Charles (~3h15), Toulon (~3h50), Nice‑Ville (~5h40).
Station-to-port: Marseille St‑Charles → ferry terminals by metro/bus ~20–30 min; Toulon station → port ~10–15 min walk/bus; Nice‑Ville → Port Lympia by tram/bus ~20–30 min.
Italy (Trenitalia):
Milano Centrale → Livorno Centrale (~3h40–4h via Pisa); Firenze SMN → Livorno (~1h20); Torino → Savona (~2h).
Station-to-port: Livorno Centrale → Porto di Livorno by bus ~20–25 min; Savona station → ferry terminal ~15–20 min walk/bus.
On-island rail (useful after arrival): Corsican Railway (U Trinighellu) links Ajaccio–Corte–Bastia and Ponte‑Leccia–Calvi.
By Car
Drive to French ports via A7/A8 (Marseille/Toulon/Nice); to Italian ports via A10 (Savona) and A12 (Livorno). Expect tolls and summer congestion.
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If you crave wild nature, rich culture and real-deal adventure, Corsica will win you over. Rugged and reserved, it’s nothing like the glitzy French Riviera—think granite peaks above turquoise bays and villages where tradition still leads. Come for perfumed maquis, quiet roads, and hospitality that rewards curiosity and respect.
Scenery seekers: Marvel at the red cliffs of the Calanques de Piana, windswept Cap Corse, and aquamarine coves you can smell before you see.
Active travellers: Tackle the legendary GR20, opt for gentler Mare a Mare/Mare e Monti, or ride the island-long GT20—with canyoning, climbing and trail running in between.
Sailors & water lovers: Thread Bonifacio’s fjord-like harbour, snorkel the protected Scandola reserve, and find glassy waters in September—far calmer than peak summer.
History lovers: Time-travel via Genoese towers, cliff citadels (Bonifacio, Calvi) and Paoli’s Corte—the epicentre of Corsican independence.
Foodies: Feast on farmhouse charcuterie, brocciu and chestnut cookery at rustic auberges, then stock up at lively morning markets.
City-breakers: Base in Ajaccio or Bastia for museums, waterfront dining and easy rail links into wild interiors—urban buzz without big-city sprawl.
Corsican cooking is rustic, seasonal, and fiercely local. Expect chestnut, wild herbs, brocciu cheese, mountain meats and Mediterranean fish. Eat in simple cafés, village markets, and farm auberges.
Charcuterie corse – Air‑dried mountain meats like prisuttu, coppa and lonzu (plus seasonal figatellu) with crusty bread and pickles. Order generous boards in village bars or at morning markets; the vibe is convivial and proudly local.
Brocciu & fiadone – Fresh ewe/goat’s cheese used in savouries and in fiadone, a light lemony cheesecake. Find it in simple cafés and pâtisseries; best in spring when brocciu is at its peak.
Civet de sanglier (wild boar stew) – Slow‑cooked with red wine, myrtle and maquis herbs; rich, aromatic and comforting. Share it at a rustic auberge or bergerie; long tables, local wine, unhurried service.
Corsican wines & apéritifs – Patrimonio reds, Vermentinu whites, Muscat du Cap Corse, bittersweet Cap Corse quinquina (plus Pietra chestnut beer). Sip on terraces at sunset or in old‑town wine bars; staff love to recommend small producers.