Cordoba

Day 1: The Mezquita and the riverside heart of Córdoba

Begin in the cool hush of the old town before the day warms up, letting your eyes adjust to stone, shade and water. Today orients you in the Judería and along the Guadalquivir, with long pauses in patios and gardens to match Córdoba’s slow rhythm.

• Morning: Enter the Mezquita-Catedral at the early worship hour (usually 8:30–9:30 Mon–Sat; check ahead), when crowds are light and photography may be restricted; then return later for a full visit to the mihrab and choir and to pre-book a timed ascent of the bell tower. Linger in the Patio de los Naranjos and grab a coffee nearby; dress modestly and keep voices low in active worship spaces.
• Midday: Drift through the Judería’s lanes to the Synagogue and Casa de Sefarad, then browse the Zoco Municipal for leather and silverwork. For lunch, step away from the monument zone to Plaza de la Corredera for salmorejo and a media ración or two; in summer, plan for a proper siesta window when shutters come down.
• Afternoon: Tour the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and its terraced, water-laced gardens; book skip-the-line tickets in busy months and carry water. Pop into the Baños del Alcázar Califal (Caliphal Baths) for a serene, well-signed look at 10th‑century bathing culture.
• Evening: Cross the Roman Bridge at golden hour towards the Calahorra Tower (its small museum gives context to Al‑Andalus), then back for dinner in the San Basilio quarter where lived-in patio houses cluster. Consider a low-key flamenco peña or a quiet paseo under lanterns to the Cristo de los Faroles.

Day 2: Roman roots, patios and neighbourhood churches

Today threads Roman Córdoba through living traditions: mosaics and theatres below your feet, patios in bloom above, and Mudéjar-Gothic parish churches that locals actually use. Pace yourself; Córdoba rewards those who look slowly and look twice.

• Morning: Start at the Archaeological Museum (the Roman theatre in the basement is superb), then detour to the Roman Temple on Calle Claudio Marcelo. Coffee and a quick browse in Mercado de la Corredera set you up for a walking day.
• Midday: Tour the patios of Palacio de Viana (12 different courtyards; on some Wednesdays late afternoon entry can be free—check current policy). Lunch around Santa Marina on a shady terrace; on hot days, prioritise patio-rich stops for natural cooling.
• Afternoon: Do a Fernandine churches loop—San Lorenzo (rose window), Santa Marina and San Agustín—plus the atmospheric Cristo de los Faroles. If you missed them yesterday, slot in the Caliphal Baths now; otherwise visit artisan workshops (look for cordobán and guadamecí leather).
• Evening: Tapas crawl with Córdoban staples: salmorejo, flamenquín and rabo de toro; order shared raciones rather than chasing “free tapas.” Book ahead for the Mezquita’s “El Alma de Córdoba” night experience for a contemplative, uncrowded look at the monument.

Day 3: Medina Azahara and museums by the river

Step out to the caliphal city of Medina Azahara, a ruined palatine complex that explains Córdoba’s 10th‑century brilliance. Back in town, choose art and river air to close your stay.

• Morning: Take the official bus to Medina Azahara (departs near the old town; it connects museum and hilltop ruins—book tickets in advance). Wear a hat and sturdy shoes; signage is good, but the site is open and can be hot even in spring.
• Midday: Return for lunch by the river or near the Puerta de Almodóvar; in high summer, plan for a long, late lunch and cool indoors. If energy allows, the Calahorra’s museum or a shaded patio visit in San Basilio fits the heat of the day.
• Afternoon: Pair the Julio Romero de Torres Museum with the Museum of Fine Arts across the same square; alternative: Casa Árabe for changing exhibitions. Leave time for a last wander—Calleja de las Flores for that classic bell-tower view, or a final browse in the Zoco.
• Evening: Sunset options: bell-tower climb if you haven’t yet, or a rooftop terrace with a view of the Mezquita. Seasonal notes: in May, the Patios Festival invites evening patio-hopping (expect queues); during Semana Santa, processions reshape routes—embrace the spectacle and build in extra time; in July–August, dine late like a local and avoid driving into the ACIRE-restricted old town (park and walk).

By Air

• Córdoba has no regular commercial flights (ODB). Nearest airports:
  • Seville (SVQ) – 130 km. 1 hr 30 min by car. Airport bus to Sevilla Santa Justa (35–40 min), then high-speed train to Córdoba (~45–55 min).
  • Málaga (AGP) – 170 km. 1 hr 45–2 hrs by car. Suburban train C1 to María Zambrano (~12 min), then high-speed train to Córdoba (~50–60 min).
  • Madrid Barajas (MAD) – 400 km. 4 hrs by car. Cercanías or Airport Express to Atocha, then high-speed train to Córdoba (~1 hr 45–2 hrs).
  • Granada (GRX) – ~200 km. ~2 hrs by car. Bus to Granada city, then train to Córdoba (~1 hr 30–1 hr 45, some direct services).

By Train

• Main station: Córdoba (often called Córdoba Central), 20–25 minutes’ walk from the historic centre; bus and taxi ranks outside.
• High-speed services (AVE/Avlo/Iryo) and long‑distance (Alvia/Media Distancia) connect key cities:
  • Seville: ~45–55 min, frequent daily.
  • Málaga: ~50–60 min, frequent daily.
  • Madrid (Atocha): ~1 hr 45–2 hrs, very frequent.
  • Granada: ~1 hr 30–1 hr 45 (directs and 1-change options).
  • Barcelona: ~4 hr 45–5 hr 30 (direct AVE on select departures).

By Coach/Bus

• Estación de Autobuses de Córdoba (opposite the train station, Avenida de la Libertad). Major operators include ALSA and Socibus.
• Typical direct journey times:
  • Seville: ~2–2 hr 30 min.
  • Málaga: ~2 hr 30–3 hrs.
  • Granada: ~2–2 hr 45 min.
  • Madrid (Est. Sur/Plaza Elíptica): ~4 hr 45–5 hr 30 min.

By Car

• Motorways:
  • A‑4 links Madrid ⇄ Córdoba ⇄ Seville.
  • A‑45 links Córdoba ⇄ Málaga.
  • N‑432 is the scenic (slower) route towards Granada/Badajoz.
• Approximate driving times:
  • Seville: 1 hr 30–1 hr 45.
  • Málaga: 1 hr 45–2 hrs.
  • Granada: ~2 hrs.
  • Madrid: ~4 hrs.
• The old town has restricted-traffic zones (ACIRE) and narrow streets; use perimeter car parks (near the station or river) and walk in.