Catania

Day 1: Baroque city, markets and the movida

Catania’s historic centre reveals its Baroque rebirth and volcanic soul in one compact, walkable grid. Ease into local rhythms: later meals, long passeggiate, and a nightlife that blossoms after 22:30.

• Morning: Espresso and a warm pastry at a pasticceria on Via Etnea, then stroll the axis towards Mount Etna for that classic streetscape. Climb the cupola of the Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata for a 360° city-and-volcano panorama (clearer views in winter/spring; expect stairs).
• Midday: Dive into La Pescheria fish market behind Piazza Duomo (best before 11:00); lunch on grilled or fried catch at a trattoria or a fish-lab counter. Keep valuables secure in the crowd; the spectacle is half the fun.
• Afternoon: Wander Via Crociferi’s Baroque churches and tour the Monastero dei Benedettini. For a quiet vantage, grab a coffee at the Rinascente top-floor café overlooking the Roman Amphitheatre at Piazza Stesicoro.
• Evening: Start with an apericena on Via Santa Filomena (it’s dinner-level; book on weekends). From 22:30, bar-hop around Piazza Teatro Massimo and Via Leonardi for the student-fuelled movida; finish at a chiosco on Piazza Umberto I with a seltz, limone e sale. Avoid driving into the ZTL; walk or take a taxi (use ranks or an app).

Day 2: Etna and Etna DOC, then bohemian Catania

Today is about ‘a Muntagna: Sicily’s living volcano and the wines grown on its lava. Pace yourself—dinners start late and the best nights end with a warm pastry at dawn.

• Morning: Head to Etna’s south side (Rifugio Sapienza) for the Silvestri Craters or take the Ferrovia Circumetnea for slower, scenic laps of the lower slopes. Bring layers, sun protection and sturdy shoes; weather turns fast even in summer.
• Midday: Taste Etna DOC wines (book a cantina lunch with a designated driver, or join a guided tour). Expect mineral whites from Carricante and elegant reds from Nerello Mascalese that pair perfectly with local produce.
• Afternoon: Back in town, recharge with granita e brioche (almond/coffee is a classic) or a plate of pasta alla Norma at a low-key trattoria. If skies are hazy, sunset often gives the best volcano silhouette from Villa Bellini’s upper terraces.
• Evening: Linger in the Castello Ursino district for apericena, natural wine bars and live cultural events at Gammazita. Post-midnight, follow locals to a 24-hour bakery for a cornetto caldo or an arancino before bed (3:00–5:00 is peak “seconda serata”).

Day 3: Riviera dei Ciclopi and coastal nights

Balance the volcanic city with its Ionian edge: Norman fortresses on black lava and sea stacks tied to Homeric myth. Summer shifts nightlife to the shore; winter keeps it cosy in town.

• Morning: Bus or taxi to Aci Castello; climb the Norman castle for sweeping views of the Catania gulf and the Riviera dei Ciclopi. Continue to Aci Trezza to admire the faraglioni; swim if seas are calm (lava rock shoes help).
• Midday: Long seafood lunch in Aci Trezza, then a slow lungomare stroll with a granita. Alternatively, stop at San Giovanni li Cuti back in Catania for a black-stone beach vibe and colourful fishing boats.
• Afternoon: Return for a relaxed passeggiata and shopping around Via Etnea or browse Fera ’o Luni (Mon–Sat till early afternoon) for cheeses, olives and seasonal fruit. Time a rooftop drink for golden hour at a central terrace with an Etna view.
• Evening: Summer: migrate to the coast—Playa di Catania beach clubs (like Le Capannine) or the cliffside venues around Aci Castello/Aci Trezza (Banacher) from midnight till dawn; dress smart-casual and expect an ingresso with consumazione. Winter: stay central for a cocktail crawl (think serious mixology) and, if you like music, a set at Enola Jazz Club. Taxis are best after midnight; club entries vary (€10–€25).

By Air

• Catania–Fontanarossa (CTA, “Vincenzo Bellini”) is the main airport (5–7 km south of the centre).
  • Into town: AMTS Alibus shuttle to the centre and Catania Centrale every ~20 minutes (about 20–25 minutes). Taxis take 15–25 minutes depending on traffic.
  • Direct coaches from the airport run to Taormina and Siracusa (Interbus/Etna Trasporti).
• Alternatives:
  • Comiso (CIY) – ~90 km SW; about 1.5–1.75 hours by car. Coach links via Ragusa operate but are less frequent.
  • Palermo (PMO) – ~230 km W; 2.5–3.5 hours by car. SAIS Autolinee runs direct coaches airport↔Catania (about 2:45–3:00).

By Train

• Main station: Catania Centrale (plus smaller stops at Catania Aeroporto Fontanarossa, Europa, Ognina).
• Airport rail stop: “Catania Aeroporto Fontanarossa” (regional trains to Centrale in ~6–8 minutes; shuttle links the terminal and station).
• Key regional routes (Trenitalia):
  • Taormina-Giardini: ~55–70 minutes (regional).
  • Siracusa: ~1:00–1:20.
  • Messina: ~1:30–2:00.
  • Palermo: ~3:00–4:00 (no high-speed service in Sicily).
• Long-distance:
  • Intercity/overnight trains to Naples and Rome (via the Strait of Messina train ferry). Typical times: Naples ~8–10 hours; Rome ~10–12 hours (overnight).

By Bus/Coach

• Main hubs: Catania Autostazione (next to Catania Centrale, Via Archimede) and Piazza Borsellino (near the port).
• Major operators and typical times:
  • SAIS Autolinee: Palermo city/airport (~2:45–3:15).
  • Interbus / Etna Trasporti: Taormina (~1:00–1:20), Siracusa (~1:20–1:40), Noto, Ragusa/Modica (~1:45–2:30).
  • FlixBus/Itabus: long-distance services to/from Messina and mainland Italy (via the Strait).

By Car

• Primary routes:
  • A18 (toll): Catania–Taormina–Messina (Taormina ~50–60 minutes; Messina ~1:30–2:00).
  • A19 (no toll): Catania–Palermo (~2:45–3:15).
  • A18 dir./SS114 (largely no toll): Catania–Siracusa (~50–60 minutes).
• Practicalities:
  • ZTL (limited-traffic zones) and scarce parking in the historic centre—park on the edge and walk.
  • Car hire available at the airport; driving is convenient for Etna, the Riviera dei Ciclopi, and inland towns.