Cagliari

Day 1: Hilltop history and city panoramas

Your first day is about orientation: Cagliari’s limestone citadel and sweeping gulf views. Take it slow, follow the light, and use the city’s terraces as locals do—places to linger, not rush.

• Morning: Climb into the Castello district via quiet lanes to the cathedral square, then (time/season permitting) ascend the Torre dell’Elefante or Torre di San Pancrazio for the most visceral medieval viewpoints; tickets are modest but opening hours vary by season—wear good shoes for narrow stairs. If you prefer lifts, ride the ascensori up to the Bastione level (hours can be inconsistent).
• Midday: Drift down to the Bastione di Saint Remy and its Terrazza Umberto I for the classic panorama; in heat, duck into the Passeggiata Coperta exhibitions if open. Lunch nearby in Villanova or Stampace—fregola with clams or culurgiones are ideal—and avoid the harsh summer mid-afternoon sun by pacing lunch slowly.
• Afternoon: Head to Monte Urpinu’s belvederes (short taxi/ride or CTM Line 6). From Viale Europa you’ll see Castello rise above the city; from the southern lookout the Sella del Diavolo and Poetto unfold—on Mistral days the air is crystal-clear for photography.
• Evening: Stroll Viale Buoncammino or the smaller Belvedere di Via Santa Croce for a west-facing sunset and an unhurried aperitivo; locals favour this side for golden hour. After dinner in Marina, circle back to the Bastione terrace to watch the city lights—magical in summer, hushed and crisp in winter.

Day 2: Sea day—Poetto, flamingos and the Sella del Diavolo

Today is about the shoreline and its mythic headland. Start early for calm water and clear views, then time your hike for late-day light.

• Morning: Take CTM buses PF or PQ to Poetto; rent a bike on the lungomare and spin a relaxed section, glancing across to the Molentargius salt ponds where flamingos feed. Wind check: Maestrale means flat, transparent sea; Scirocco brings chop and the chance of seaweed—swim early either way.
• Midday: Base yourself at a stabilimento or a simple chiosco for lunch; book loungers if you want shade and showers. If Scirocco is strong, relocate to the sheltered cove of Calamosca for calmer water and a quick dip.
• Afternoon: Hike the Sella del Diavolo from the Calamosca trailhead (45–60 minutes up on rocky paths marked by green dots); trainers, water and a hat are essential, and in summer start after 17:00 to avoid the worst heat. From the top, trace the whole arc of Poetto and spot hidden coves like Cala Fighera below.
• Evening: Toast the day at Marina Piccola with a simple spritz or Ichnusa as the headland turns pink, then dine beachside or return to town for seafood. In peak season, check for live music along the lungomare; shoulder seasons are quieter and blissfully local.

Day 3: Culture, coast edges and festival flavour

Blend contemporary culture with more vistas and tailor the day to the calendar—spring brings processions, summer brings open-air concerts, autumn brings slower, foodie energy.

• Morning: Wander Villanova’s pastel lanes and Stampace’s artisans; pause at Piazza Costituzione for coffee at a historic café. If you’re here 1–4 May, step into the Church of Sant’Efisio to feel the festival preparations; during Holy Week, follow a short, solemn procession in the historic centre. Otherwise browse the Mercato di Santa Chiara for picnic supplies.
• Midday: Explore the Lazzaretto di Sant’Elia cultural centre if there’s an exhibition on, or picnic near Calamosca with a quick swim. Bird-lovers can opt instead for a gentle Molentargius loop (on foot or by bike)—keep respectful distance from nesting flamingos, especially in spring.
• Afternoon: Walk or drive up towards Capo Sant’Elia lighthouse for a 360-degree gulf view that’s quieter than the Sella; go in stable weather and avoid cliff edges in wind. If conditions turn blustery or hot, switch to the Bastione di Saint Remy’s shaded arcades or detour to Tuvixeddu park for archaeology-with-a-view.
• Evening: Finish where locals gather: sunset back on the Bastione or the intimate Belvedere di Santa Croce, then an easy passeggiata and aperitivo con vista. In summer, check the Estate Cagliaritana programme for outdoor concerts; in May, stay late on the 4th for the candlelit return of Sant’Efisio—moving, authentic, and far less crowded.

Notes:

• Footwear matters on rocky paths (Sella/Cala Fighera) and medieval stairs (towers). Carry water, especially May–September.
• Public lifts to Castello and park opening times vary; verify on the day. Buses to Poetto are frequent, but in August they get crowded—go early or cycle.
• Photographers: winter clarity is exceptional; after a Mistral the gulf views are razor-sharp. Golden hour is king for cityscapes and the headland.

By Air

• Cagliari Elmas Airport (CAG) is the main gateway, 7 km from the city centre.
• Train: Elmas Aeroporto station to Cagliari station in 5–7 minutes, typically every 15–30 minutes from early morning to late evening.
• Taxi: around 10–20 minutes to the centre, depending on traffic. Car hire available at the terminal.
• Flights: frequent year‑round links with Rome, Milan, Naples, Bologna and Turin; extensive seasonal services from major European cities (e.g., London, Paris, Barcelona, Munich).
• Other Sardinian airports:
  • Olbia Costa Smeralda (OLB): ~270 km from Cagliari (3–4 hours by car; about 3.5–5 hours by rail/bus via Ozieri‑Chilivani).
  • Alghero‑Fertilia (AHO): ~250 km (2.5–3.5 hours by car; roughly 4 hours by rail via Sassari).

By Train

• Main station: Cagliari (Piazza Giacomo Matteotti), next to the ARST bus terminal and near the port.
• Operator: Trenitalia (regional services; no high‑speed trains).
• Key routes and typical times:
  • Cagliari – Oristano: ~1 hour (hourly).
  • Cagliari – Sassari: ~3–3.5 hours (via Oristano/Macomer).
  • Cagliari – Olbia: ~4–4.5 hours (via Ozieri‑Chilivani).
• Note: Sardinia has no rail connection to mainland Italy; arrivals from the peninsula are by air or ferry.

By Bus

• Regional network: ARST coaches connect Cagliari with towns not on the rail line (e.g., Villasimius, Pula/Chia, Iglesias/Carbonia, Nuoro) and offer alternatives to Sassari/Alghero (typically 3–4.5 hours).
• Main terminal: ARST Autostazione, Piazza Matteotti (adjacent to the railway station).

By Ferry

• Port of Cagliari (Molo Rinascita) handles passenger and car ferries. Direct routes vary by season and operator; check current timetables (e.g., overnight sailings to/from Civitavecchia).
• Many travellers sail to Olbia/Golfo Aranci (from Livorno, Piombino, Civitavecchia) or Porto Torres (from Genoa, Civitavecchia) and then drive/train to Cagliari (approximately 2.5–4 hours).

By Car

• Main arteries (toll‑free):
  • SS131 “Carlo Felice” from Sassari/Porto Torres: ~2–2.5 hours.
  • SS131 d.c.n. + SS131 from Olbia: ~3–3.5 hours.
  • SS291 + SS131 from Alghero: ~2.5–3 hours.
• Practicalities: limited‑traffic zones operate in parts of the historic centre; expect paid street parking (blue lines) and use city car parks near the port and central districts.