Bologna

Day 1: The medieval heart under the porticoes

Bologna’s centre is compact and best explored on foot, sheltered by its UNESCO-listed porticoes. Today is about the classic sights, markets, and easing into the city’s slow, food-first rhythm.

• Morning: Start at the Two Towers in Piazza di Porta Ravegnana; book a timed ticket to climb the Asinelli (498 steps; avoid in peak heat). Note that the neighbouring Garisenda may be cordoned off for stabilisation works; follow local diversions. Stroll to Piazza Maggiore for San Petronio (don’t miss the Meridian Line) and the whispering gallery under Palazzo del Podestà.
• Midday: Graze the Quadrilatero’s historic food lanes (Via Pescherie Vecchie, Via Drapperie). Build your own tagliere with parcels from Salumeria Simoni or Tamburini, then bring it to Osteria del Sole (wine only; outside food welcome). Alternatively, the Mercato di Mezzo offers quick, high-quality bites.
• Afternoon: Wander the porticoes to the Archiginnasio courtyard and the former Jewish Ghetto’s lanes for a quieter feel. Coffee tip: cappuccino is for mornings; switch to espresso after lunch. If it’s hot or raining, duck into the Museo Civico Archeologico near the square.
• Evening: Join aperitivo around the Quadrilatero or on Via Rizzoli; order a glass of Lambrusco or Pignoletto. Dinner at a traditional spot such as Trattoria da Me or All’Osteria Bottega (book well ahead; order tagliatelle al ragù, not “spaghetti bolognese”). In summer, linger for Sotto le Stelle del Cinema in Piazza Maggiore.

Day 2: Art, markets, and university energy

Today blends rich collections with daily life: markets in the morning, the university quarter at midday, and modern art by evening. Pace yourself; Bologna rewards unhurried wandering.

• Morning: Browse Mercato delle Erbe (best Mon–Sat before 12:30) for seasonal fruit, cheeses and a light lunch plan; cash is handy for small stalls. Coffee and a pastry at the counter like a local, then watch fresh pasta being made at a nearby pastificio.
• Midday: Head to the university district for the Pinacoteca Nazionale (Carracci, Guido Reni, Raphael’s St Cecilia). If you enjoy science-meets-art, add Palazzo Poggi’s anatomical waxes and frescoed halls. Note many museums close on Mondays; check hours.
• Afternoon: Cross to the Manifattura delle Arti district for MAMbo and the Museo Morandi; the Cineteca’s café is ideal for a mid-afternoon pause. Street art fans can detour to Via del Pratello for murals and a lived-in local vibe.
• Evening: Apertivo on Via del Pratello or at a natural wine bar in the centre. Dinner at Trattoria di Via Serra (Slow Food favourite; km 0 sourcing) or Sfoglia Rina for fresh pasta in a smart-casual setting. August can bring holiday closures; always verify openings and reserve.

Day 3: Portico pilgrimage and the hills

Finish with Bologna’s beloved hilltop sanctuary and a taste of the countryside, then come back for shopping or gallery-hopping. If mobility is a concern, the tourist “San Luca Express” makes this day easy.

• Morning: Walk the 3.8 km Portico di San Luca from Porta Saragozza (allow 45–90 mins; water and comfy shoes). The basilica’s terrace gives superb views; in summer, go early for cooler temperatures. Students often walk up pre‑exams for luck.
• Midday: For a rustic lunch, book an agriturismo in the Colli Bolognesi (for example, Agriturismo San Giuliano) or return to town for tortellini in brodo (especially comforting in winter). Autumn brings porcini and truffle specials across menus.
• Afternoon: Shop under elegant porticoes on Via Farini and Galleria Cavour (luxury) or hunt vintage in the Ghetto Ebraico and Via San Felice. If it’s raining, the porticoes keep you dry; remember smaller boutiques may close for a mid‑afternoon riposo.
• Evening: Celebrate with apericena (a substantial aperitivo) or book a finale dinner of cotoletta alla bolognese or lasagne verdi. For culture, check the Teatro Comunale’s schedule, or in warm months enjoy a final passeggiata along Via dell’Indipendenza (weekends are pedestrian‑friendly). Practical note: the centre is a ZTL; walk or use taxis/buses, and ask for the bill when ready (il conto, per favore).

By Air

• Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ): 6 km NW of the centre.
  • Marconi Express (driverless monorail) to Bologna Centrale railway station in about 7–8 minutes; runs every 7–10 minutes (more frequent at peaks).
  • Taxi to the centre: about 15–20 minutes depending on traffic; official taxi rank outside arrivals.
  • Car hire available at arrivals.
• Useful alternative airports:
  • Florence (FLR): tram T2 to Firenze SMN (~20 min), then high‑speed train to Bologna (~37–45 min). Total ~1.5 hours.
  • Verona (VRN): bus to Verona Porta Nuova (~15 min), then train to Bologna (~50–70 min). Total ~1.5 hours.
  • Venice (VCE): bus to Venezia Mestre/SL (~20–30 min), then train to Bologna (~1.30–1.45). Total ~2 hours.
  • Milan Linate (LIN): bus to Milano Centrale (~25 min), then high‑speed train to Bologna (~1 h). Total ~2 hours.
  • Milan Malpensa (MXP): train to Milano Centrale (~50 min), then high‑speed train (~1 h). Total ~2.5 hours.
  • Bergamo (BGY): bus to Milano Centrale (~50–60 min), then high‑speed train (~1 h). Total ~2.5 hours.

By Train

• Main hub: Bologna Centrale (walking distance ~20 minutes to Piazza Maggiore; excellent local buses; direct link to BLQ via Marconi Express).
• High‑speed services by Trenitalia (Frecciarossa/Frecciargento) and Italo connect major cities:
  • Florence: ~37–45 min
  • Milan: ~1.00–1.15
  • Venice: ~1.30–1.45 (direct)
  • Rome: ~2.00–2.15 (some faster, some slower)
  • Turin: ~2.00–2.20
  • Naples: ~3.45–4.15
  • Verona: ~50–60 min
  • Rimini: ~50–60 min
• Regional links (Regionale/Intercity) to Modena (~20–30 min), Reggio Emilia (~45–60 min), Parma (~50–70 min), Ferrara (~30–40 min), Ravenna (~1.10–1.30).

By Bus

• Main terminal: Autostazione di Bologna (next to Bologna Centrale, Piazza XX Settembre).
• Long‑distance operators include FlixBus, Itabus and MarinoBus with direct routes to major cities:
  • Florence: ~1.30–2.00
  • Milan: ~3.00–3.30
  • Venice: ~2.30–3.00
  • Rome: ~4.30–5.30
  • Verona: ~1.30–2.00
  • Rimini: ~1.15–1.45

By Car

• Strategic motorway junction:
  • A1 (Autostrada del Sole): Milan–Bologna–Florence–Rome/Naples
  • A14: Bologna–Rimini–Ancona–Bari
  • A13: Bologna–Ferrara–Padua–Venice
• Typical drive times (traffic‑dependent, tolls apply):
  • Florence ~1.15–1.30, Milan ~2.00–2.30, Venice ~1.45–2.00, Verona ~1.15, Rimini ~1.00.
• Practicalities:
  • The historic centre is a ZTL (limited‑traffic zone) enforced by cameras; avoid driving inside unless you have a permit.
  • Consider edge‑of‑centre car parks or park‑and‑ride options and continue on foot/bus.
  • City‑wide 30 km/h speed limit applies on most urban streets.