Belgrade

Day 1: Fortresses, kafanas and first tastes of the city

Belgrade’s old town is compact and walkable, with history layered at every corner. Ease in with coffee culture, sweeping river views, and a bohemian dinner that sets the tone for late-night social rhythms.

• Morning: Wander Kalemegdan Fortress and park for views over the Sava–Danube confluence; loop down past the Victor monument and along the riverside. Start in Dorćol with a strong domestic coffee and a pastry from a nearby pekara.
• Midday: Stroll Knez Mihailova to Republic Square, then duck into Skadarlija’s cobbles for a long kafana lunch (try grilled meats, shopska salad and a small rakija—sip, don’t shoot). Go on a weekday or earlier to avoid tourist crush; tip roaming musicians in cash if you request a song.
• Afternoon: Head to the Saint Sava Temple and the Vračar cafés; if you want museums, pre-book timed entry at the Nikola Tesla Museum (slots sell out). Between sights, embrace polako—lingering over a single coffee is very Belgrade.
• Evening: Sunset aperitivo by the Sava at Beton Hala, then a mellow first night in Cetinjska 15 (Zaokret for warm-up tunes, Polet for artsy vibes). If it’s warm, finish with a riverfront walk; in winter, slide into a snug wine bar in Dorćol.

Day 2: Rivers, Zemun charm and splav nightlife

Shift to the water and Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian side in Zemun. By night, sample the legendary floating clubs or their winter counterparts.

• Morning: Explore Zemun’s market and the Danube promenade, then climb Gardoš Tower for old-town roofs and river views. Coffee on Kej oslobođenja feels worlds away from the centre.
• Midday: Long fish lunch in Zemun (river catch and a crisp white), then choose your season: in summer, cycle/swim at Ada Ciganlija; in winter, visit the Museum of Yugoslavia and House of Flowers for a window into the 20th century. Buses and trams work, but rideshare (CarGo/Yandex Go) is easiest.
• Afternoon: Cross to New Belgrade for Brutalist grandeur—Genex Tower and the blokovi grid—then a craft beer stop. Time a golden-hour ramble by Ušće for fortress views from the opposite bank.
• Evening: Summer: hit the splavovi clustered along Sajamski Kej (Leto, Lasta, Port by Community; reservations and smart dress expected—trainers may be turned away). Underground heads: try 20/44 or Pristan (check current location/programme and arrive after midnight). Winter: switch to indoor clubs like The Bank (R’n’B), Hype (house/tech), or Gotik (mainstream/folk). Use apps for taxis; avoid street hails.

Day 3: Alternative Belgrade and a late techno finish

Today is about the city’s creative engine: street art, DIY culture and post-industrial clubs with serious sound. Pace yourself—the peak is after midnight.

• Morning: Street art walk through Dorćol and Savamala; drop into KC Grad for exhibitions and coffee. Vinyl diggers should browse Yugovinyl; design lovers, Dorćol’s indie studios and galleries.
• Midday: Museum of Contemporary Art in Ušće for a sharp modern collection (allow 60–90 minutes). Quick lunch back in Dorćol—burek or a modern bistro—then a rakija flight (quince and apricot are favourites).
• Afternoon: Bar-hop the Cetinjska 15 courtyard (Dim for audiophile sets later on select days; Lift for intimate electronic nights). If you prefer nostalgia, detour to Pavle Korčagin for Yugo memorabilia and a boisterous local crowd.
• Evening: Two tracks: alternative—pre-drinks in Cetinjska, then Drugstore for late techno in a raw, industrial space (cash handy, smoking common; check Resident Advisor/IG for line-ups and arrive 00:30–02:00). Or mainstream—dinner and showy cocktails at Beton Hala, then a glossy city club (reserve a table, expect bottle service). Keep valuables secure; toast with “Živeli!” and make eye contact when clinking glasses.

Notes:

• Summer vs winter is decisive: May–Sep brings open-air splavs and river life; Oct–Apr shifts nightlife indoors. Transitional months see some venues closed or relocating.
• For big-night entries, reservations via phone/Instagram are the norm; let a hotel or local help if language is a barrier.

By Air

• Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG) is 18 km west of the centre; 20–35 mins by taxi/ride‑hail (typical fixed airport fare to the centre 2,000–3,000 RSD).
• Public transport: A1 minibus to Slavija Square (about 30–40 mins, frequent), city bus 72 to Zeleni Venac (45–60 mins).
• Hub for Air Serbia with frequent direct flights from major European hubs (London, Paris, Frankfurt, Vienna, Zurich, Istanbul, Rome, Amsterdam, Warsaw). Long‑haul: New York (year‑round), Chicago (seasonal). Middle East links (e.g., Doha, Dubai, Abu Dhabi).
• Ride‑hailing apps (CarGo, Yandex Go) widely used.
• Alternative airports: Niš (INI) ~240 km south (2.5–3 hrs by car/bus); Timișoara, Romania (TSR) ~160 km (2.5–3.5 hrs incl. border); Budapest (BUD) ~320 km (4–5 hrs).

By Train

• Main long‑distance station: Belgrade Centre (Beograd Centar/“Prokop”). Many intercity trains also call at Novi Beograd station (often the most convenient for New Belgrade).
• Key routes:
  • Belgrade–Novi Sad (Soko high‑speed): 36–49 mins, departures every 30–60 mins.
  • Belgrade–Subotica: around 2 hrs (some services may require a change at Novi Sad).
  • Belgrade–Bar (Montenegro): overnight (approx. 11–12 hrs), daily in summer; seats/couchettes/sleepers—book early in peak season.
• Note: The Belgrade–Niš corridor is undergoing upgrades; expect extended journey times and occasional rail‑replacement buses. International services to Budapest, Zagreb, Sofia and Skopje are limited or suspended—buses are usually faster/reliable.

By Bus

• Main coach terminal: BAS Novi Beograd (Block 42), next to Novi Beograd railway station; 10–15 mins to the centre by taxi and frequent city buses.
• Frequent domestic and international links. Typical journey times:
  • Novi Sad: 1.5–2 hrs (very frequent)
  • Niš: 3–3.5 hrs (hourly)
  • Sarajevo: 6–7 hrs
  • Zagreb: 6–7 hrs
  • Budapest: 6–8 hrs
  • Sofia: 7–9 hrs
  • Skopje: 6–7 hrs
  • Timișoara: 3–4 hrs
  • Thessaloniki: 8–9 hrs (overnight)

By Car

• Motorways:
  • E75/A1 north–south (Hungary–Novi Sad–Belgrade–Niš–North Macedonia)
  • E70/A3 west–east (Croatia–Belgrade)
  • E763/A2 “Miloš Veliki” towards Čačak/Požega (western/central Serbia, onward to Montenegro)
• Toll roads throughout Serbia (pay cash or card at booths). Border waits can be long in summer.
• Approximate drives (without border delays): Budapest 3.5–4.5 hrs; Zagreb 4–5 hrs; Sofia 5–6 hrs; Timișoara 2.5–3.5 hrs; Sarajevo 4.5–6 hrs.
• Carry vehicle registration, valid insurance (Green Card) and an International Driving Permit if required. Street parking in central zones is time‑limited; use public garages where possible.