Assisi

Day 1: Basilicas and the medieval core

Begin with the Franciscan heart of Assisi at a contemplative pace. Start early to experience the great churches in quiet, then wander the lanes that still hold the town’s everyday life. Keep shoulders and knees covered; several sites ask for silence and restrict photography.

• Morning: Enter the Basilica di San Francesco via the Lower Church first; move in silence to the crypt to pay respects at the tomb, then “ascend” to the Upper Church to read the Giotto cycle. Audio guides help, but on Sundays/feast days guides cannot speak inside, so brief outside and visit independently. Arrive for opening (about 08:30) to avoid crowds and summer heat.
• Midday: Walk up to the Cattedrale di San Rufino to see the baptismal font of Francis and Clare; check hours as many sites close roughly 12:30–14:30. Take a light Umbrian lunch nearby and refill water—Assisi’s slopes and cobbles demand sturdy shoes.
• Afternoon: Visit the Basilica di Santa Chiara for the crypt and the San Damiano Cross; keep phones silent and avoid flash. Continue to Chiesa Nuova (Francis’s birthplace) and, if time allows, Santa Maria Maggiore where Francis renounced his wealth.
• Evening: Slip into Vespers at the Basilica di San Francesco or Santa Chiara for a lived experience of the town’s spirituality (arrive 10–15 minutes early). Stroll to the tiny church of Santo Stefano at dusk; locals treasure its stark beauty and the legend of the self-tolling bell.

Day 2: Hermitages, nature and quiet art

Today is about the contemplative spaces where the Franciscan story took shape. Expect uneven paths and bring layers—Monte Subasio can be breezy even in summer. Move slowly; this is a day to be more pilgrim than tourist.

• Morning: Walk the olive-grove path to San Damiano (about 20–30 minutes downhill from the walls); linger in the cloister, refectory and dormitory of Clare. Remember this is an active religious house: speak softly, observe no-photo signs and consider a small donation.

By Air

• Perugia San Francesco d’Assisi (PEG) – 12 km from Assisi. 20–25 minutes by taxi/car. Seasonal Umbria Airlink shuttles connect the airport with Assisi and Perugia (check current schedules). Limited but growing flight options.
• Rome Fiumicino (FCO) – about 2.5–3.5 hours by train to Assisi (via Roma Termini/Tiburtina and Foligno). Around 2.5 hours by car (c. 200 km).
• Rome Ciampino (CIA) – bus to Roma Termini, then train to Assisi via Foligno; 3–3.5 hours total. Around 2–2.5 hours by car.
• Florence (FLR) – 2.5–3.5 hours by train (via Terontola/Arezzo or Perugia). Roughly 2–2.5 hours by car (c. 170 km).
• Ancona (AOI) – 2.5–3 hours by train via Foligno; around 1.5–2 hours by car.

By Train

• Assisi’s railway station is in Santa Maria degli Angeli (4–5 km below the historic centre). Local buses and taxis connect to the old town (10–15 minutes by bus).
• Rome → Assisi: typically 2–2 h 45 min with a change at Foligno (Regionale/Regionale Veloce via Trenitalia).
• Florence → Assisi: about 2–3 hours, usually changing at Terontola-Cortona or Arezzo (some services via Perugia).
• Perugia → Assisi: 20–25 minutes, frequent regional trains.
• Ancona → Assisi: about 2–2.5 hours via Foligno.
• Milan/Venice → Assisi: 4.5–6 hours with changes (usually via Florence/Bologna and Foligno).

Notes:

Assisi offers the soul of a great pilgrimage city with fewer crowds and a slower, more contemplative rhythm—rich in art, ritual, and Umbrian warmth.

• Spirit & setting: A living hill town of frescoed sanctuaries and stone lanes, where silence and bells shape the day. Wander from the Basilica di San Francesco (Upper/Lower churches) to Santa Chiara and San Rufino, pausing in the Piazza del Comune by the Temple of Minerva.
• Authenticity & value: Active churches over museum queues—most sites are free (donations welcomed), and you’re invited to Mass or vespers. Expect family-run stays, Umbrian trattorie (think torta al testo, truffles, local olive oil), and better-value experiences than headline art cities.
• Crowd‑light highlights: Greet sunrise at San Damiano, walk the wooded trail to Eremo delle Carceri, and step inside the tiny Porziuncola beneath the vast dome of Santa Maria degli Angeli. Seek out the Oratorio dei Pellegrini’s intimate frescoes and the quiet Chiesa di Santo Stefano.
• Culture & traditions: Time your visit for the Festa di San Francesco (3–4 Oct), the Pardon of Assisi (1–2 Aug), Holy Week processions, or the Infiorate floral carpets—atmospheric, deeply local, and far less frenetic than bigger-name festivals.

Spiritual pilgrims, art lovers and slow travellers will all find Assisi irresistible. This UNESCO-listed hill town blends fresco-filled basilicas with intimate hermitages and Roman echoes, inviting reverence as much as sightseeing. Come for the Franciscan story; stay for the contemplative rhythm and views across Umbria.

• History lovers: Trace 2,000 years from the Roman Temple of Minerva to San Rufino’s Romanesque façade and the two-tier Basilica of San Francesco that reshaped medieval Europe.
• Art & architecture aficionados: Stand beneath Giotto’s Life of St Francis and works by Cimabue, Lorenzetti and Martini in settings that rival Florence for impact.
• Pilgrims & spiritual seekers: Pray at St Francis’s tomb, enter the tiny Porziuncola for the Pardon of Assisi, and find silence among the oaks at the Eremo delle Carceri.
• Scenery seekers: Capture sunrise over the Umbrian plain, dusky stone lanes, and Monte Subasio’s woodland—calmer than Rome or Florence.
• Active travellers: Walk the Cammino di Francesco, hike out to San Damiano and the hermitage, and use local buses/escalators to ease the steep climbs.
• City-breakers: A compact, walkable base where most highlights are free and best enjoyed early or late—an unhurried counterpoint to Rome.

These are the unmissable highlights of Assisi’s sacred landscape, distilling the town’s richest Franciscan heritage. Use this shortlist to focus your time on places that embody Assisi’s spirituality, art, and living tradition.

• Walk the intentional route from the shadowed Lower Basilica and St Francis’s tomb to the fresco-bright Upper Church of San Francesco.
• Explore the Porziuncola and the Cappella del Transito sheltered inside the vast Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli.
• Visit the Basilica di Santa Chiara to venerate St Clare and the original San Damiano Cross that called Francis.
• Take a reflective pause at the rustic Convento di San Damiano, cradle of the Poor Clares and birthplace of the Canticle of the Creatures.
• Hike through the oak woods to the Eremo delle Carceri on Monte Subasio for caves, silence and sweeping Umbrian views.

These are the unmissable highlights of Assisi’s sacred landscape, distilling the town’s richest Franciscan heritage. Use this shortlist to focus your time on places that embody Assisi’s spirituality, art, and living tradition.

• Walk the intentional route from the shadowed Lower Basilica and St Francis’s tomb to the fresco-bright Upper Church of San Francesco.
• Explore the Porziuncola and the Cappella del Transito sheltered inside the vast Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli.
• Visit the Basilica di Santa Chiara to venerate St Clare and the original San Damiano Cross that called Francis.
• Take a reflective pause at the rustic Convento di San Damiano, cradle of the Poor Clares and birthplace of the Canticle of the Creatures.
• Hike through the oak woods to the Eremo delle Carceri on Monte Subasio for caves, silence and sweeping Umbrian views.

Assisi’s food culture is pure Umbrian: simple, seasonal, and generous, with truffles, olive oil, and hand‑made pasta at its heart. Expect wood‑fired breads, cured meats, and robust local wines served with warmth. Atmosphere is relaxed and convivial in cosy cafés, osterie, lively markets, and intimate wine bars.

• Strangozzi al tartufo nero – Hand‑rolled pasta tossed with fragrant black truffle from the Subasio woods; best savoured in rustic osterie.
• Torta al testo – Umbrian flatbread stuffed with sausage, pecorino or wild greens; perfect as street food from bakeries and market stalls.
• Tagliere di norcineria – Platters of Umbrian cured meats and cheeses drizzled with local olive oil; ideal for sharing in an enoteca.
• Sagrantino di Montefalco (or Montefalco Rosso) – Powerful red wines from nearby vineyards; sip by the glass in relaxed wine bars or at tastings.

Assisi’s food culture is pure Umbrian: simple, seasonal, and generous, with truffles, olive oil, and hand‑made pasta at its heart. Expect wood‑fired breads, cured meats, and robust local wines served with warmth. Atmosphere is relaxed and convivial in cosy cafés, osterie, lively markets, and intimate wine bars.

• Strangozzi al tartufo nero – Hand‑rolled pasta tossed with fragrant black truffle from the Subasio woods; best savoured in rustic osterie.
• Torta al testo – Umbrian flatbread stuffed with sausage, pecorino or wild greens; perfect as street food from bakeries and market stalls.
• Tagliere di norcineria – Platters of Umbrian cured meats and cheeses drizzled with local olive oil; ideal for sharing in an enoteca.
• Sagrantino di Montefalco (or Montefalco Rosso) – Powerful red wines from nearby vineyards; sip by the glass in relaxed wine bars or at tastings.

Choosing where to stay in Assisi is about matching the neighbourhood to your pace and purpose. The hilltop centre is medieval and atmospheric; the plain below is flatter and practical. Pick the area that fits whether you’re here for art, pilgrimage, family ease, or quiet nature.

• Historic Centre (Piazza del Comune & lanes within the walls) — quintessential medieval charm near San Rufino and Santa Chiara; best for first‑timers and history lovers who don’t mind hills and cobbles.
• Via San Francesco/Basilica quarter (west side of the centre) — close to the Basilica di San Francesco and major frescoes; ideal for pilgrims and art enthusiasts, lively by day, serene at night.
• Santa Maria degli Angeli (the plain) — flat, rail‑convenient and budget‑friendlier near the Porziuncola; suits families, drivers and anyone wanting easy access and quieter evenings.
• Countryside slopes toward San Damiano/Eremo delle Carceri — olive groves and woodland trails with contemplative retreats; perfect for hikers and seekers of silence, best with a car.

Choosing where to stay in Assisi is about matching the neighbourhood to your pace and purpose. The hilltop centre is medieval and atmospheric; the plain below is flatter and practical. Pick the area that fits whether you’re here for art, pilgrimage, family ease, or quiet nature.

• Historic Centre (Piazza del Comune & lanes within the walls) — quintessential medieval charm near San Rufino and Santa Chiara; best for first‑timers and history lovers who don’t mind hills and cobbles.
• Via San Francesco/Basilica quarter (west side of the centre) — close to the Basilica di San Francesco and major frescoes; ideal for pilgrims and art enthusiasts, lively by day, serene at night.
• Santa Maria degli Angeli (the plain) — flat, rail‑convenient and budget‑friendlier near the Porziuncola; suits families, drivers and anyone wanting easy access and quieter evenings.
• Countryside slopes toward San Damiano/Eremo delle Carceri — olive groves and woodland trails with contemplative retreats; perfect for hikers and seekers of silence, best with a car.

Getting to and around Assisi is straightforward, and the compact historic centre makes it easy to explore on foot. A few practical details on costs, transport and timing will help you avoid crowds and enjoy the town’s serene atmosphere.

• Affordability: Expect mid-range costs: coffee €1.50–2, light lunch €8–12, trattoria dinner €25–40; B&Bs €70–120 and mid-range hotels €100–180 per night (higher in peak/feast days).
• Transport: The centre is walkable but steep; trains arrive at Assisi (Santa Maria degli Angeli) with buses/taxis up the hill, Linea C and public escalators link main sites, and a car is handy for day trips to Spello, Perugia or Spoleto.
• Language: Italian is spoken, but English is commonly understood in hotels, restaurants and major religious sites, with multilingual signage at the basilicas.
• Safety & comfort: Very safe for families and solo travellers, with petty theft mainly in crowded basilicas and some uneven cobbles/steep lanes—wear good shoes and dress modestly for church entry.
• Crowds: Busiest May–September and around 1–2 August (Perdono) and 3–4 October (St Francis), especially mid‑morning with coach groups; November–February is quieter, and early morning or late afternoon is calm year‑round.

Getting to and around Assisi is straightforward, and the compact historic centre makes it easy to explore on foot. A few practical details on costs, transport and timing will help you avoid crowds and enjoy the town’s serene atmosphere.

• Affordability: Expect mid-range costs: coffee €1.50–2, light lunch €8–12, trattoria dinner €25–40; B&Bs €70–120 and mid-range hotels €100–180 per night (higher in peak/feast days).
• Transport: The centre is walkable but steep; trains arrive at Assisi (Santa Maria degli Angeli) with buses/taxis up the hill, Linea C and public escalators link main sites, and a car is handy for day trips to Spello, Perugia or Spoleto.
• Language: Italian is spoken, but English is commonly understood in hotels, restaurants and major religious sites, with multilingual signage at the basilicas.
• Safety & comfort: Very safe for families and solo travellers, with petty theft mainly in crowded basilicas and some uneven cobbles/steep lanes—wear good shoes and dress modestly for church entry.
• Crowds: Busiest May–September and around 1–2 August (Perdono) and 3–4 October (St Francis), especially mid‑morning with coach groups; November–February is quieter, and early morning or late afternoon is calm year‑round.

Assisi has distinct travel rhythms shaped by pilgrimage festivals and Italian holiday periods. Expect the heaviest crowds in summer and around major feasts, with winter offering a quieter, more contemplative atmosphere.

• Shoulder Season (Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct): Mild to warm; manageable crowds and a calmer vibe—watch for spikes at Holy Week and 3–4 October (Festa di San Francesco).
• High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (especially on the plain); peak crowds and a lively pilgrim buzz—queues and midday heat common; 1–2 August (Festa del Perdono) draws many.
• Winter (Nov–Feb): Chilly and quiet; reflective mood with shorter hours and some reduced access, but low prices and peaceful churches.

Assisi has distinct travel rhythms shaped by pilgrimage festivals and Italian holiday periods. Expect the heaviest crowds in summer and around major feasts, with winter offering a quieter, more contemplative atmosphere.

• Shoulder Season (Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct): Mild to warm; manageable crowds and a calmer vibe—watch for spikes at Holy Week and 3–4 October (Festa di San Francesco).
• High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (especially on the plain); peak crowds and a lively pilgrim buzz—queues and midday heat common; 1–2 August (Festa del Perdono) draws many.
• Winter (Nov–Feb): Chilly and quiet; reflective mood with shorter hours and some reduced access, but low prices and peaceful churches.

Day 3: The plain below—origins and living pilgrimage

Head down to the valley for the cradle of the Franciscan movement. Public buses and taxis make this easy; Linea C links major stops, and escalators help with steep ascents back to the old town.

• Morning: Begin at Santa Maria degli Angeli; enter the Porziuncola first, then the Cappella del Transito where Francis died. No photos inside the Porziuncola; dress modestly. If visiting 1–2 August, the Pardon of Assisi indulgence draws large pilgrim crowds—arrive very early; a 06:15 Mass is particularly moving.
• Midday: Continue to the Santuario di Rivotorto to see the reconstructed stone hovel of the first brothers. Pack a simple picnic or eat locally; sites may close around 12:30–14:30.
• Afternoon: Back in the hilltown, visit the Oratorio dei Pellegrini to enjoy intimate 15th‑century frescoes without the bustle. Leave unscheduled time to sit, write, or simply be—Assisi rewards unhurried reflection as much as box‑ticking.
• Evening: Close with a final, unhurried circuit of the Basilica di San Francesco piazzas at sunset. If you’re in town during Holy Week, join the torch‑lit Good Friday procession; during 3–4 October (Festa di San Francesco), expect solemn civic rites and very full churches—plan earlier arrivals and be ready to queue respectfully.

Notes for all days:

• Check official websites for seasonal opening hours and any conservation closures.
• Photography: no flash anywhere; none at all in the most sacred areas (Francis’s tomb, Porziuncola).
• Accessibility: main basilicas have level access; crypts and hermitages involve stairs/uneven terrain.
• Mindset: adopt the pilgrim’s pace—look, then linger. A simple “Pace e bene” is a welcome greeting.

• The historic centre is steep and mostly ZTL (limited traffic). From the station, Busitalia town buses run frequently; look for services to Piazza Matteotti/Porta Nuova. Audio announcements/signage are in Italian.

By Bus

• Regional buses (Busitalia) link Assisi/Santa Maria degli Angeli with Perugia, Foligno, Spello and Spoleto—useful where train timings are sparse. Main stops include Assisi Piazza Matteotti/Porta Nuova and the railway station area.
• Long-distance buses often serve Perugia; from there, take a regional train or bus to Assisi. Direct long-distance buses to Assisi are limited and vary by season.

By Car

• Best approach is the SS75 (four-lane) between Perugia and Foligno; exits signed for Santa Maria degli Angeli/Assisi. Allow roughly: Perugia 30–40 min; Rome 2–2.5 h (A1 to Orte then SS3/SS75); Florence 2–2.5 h (A1 to Valdichiana then via Perugia); Ancona 1.5–2 h (SS76 to Foligno then SS75).
• The old town is ZTL; use edge-of-centre car parks and walk or take lifts/escalators:
  • Mojano (P2) and Porta Nuova (P3) for the upper town (moving walkways/escalators available).
  • Piazza Matteotti (P1) for the upper town.
  • Santa Maria degli Angeli car parks for the basilica area and the rail/bus links up to the hilltown.

Who should go to Assisi?

Spiritual pilgrims, art lovers and slow travellers will all find Assisi irresistible. This UNESCO-listed hill town blends fresco-filled basilicas with intimate hermitages and Roman echoes, inviting reverence as much as sightseeing. Come for the Franciscan story; stay for the contemplative rhythm and views across Umbria.

• History lovers: Trace 2,000 years from the Roman Temple of Minerva to San Rufino’s Romanesque façade and the two-tier Basilica of San Francesco that reshaped medieval Europe.
• Art & architecture aficionados: Stand beneath Giotto’s Life of St Francis and works by Cimabue, Lorenzetti and Martini in settings that rival Florence for impact.
• Pilgrims & spiritual seekers: Pray at St Francis’s tomb, enter the tiny Porziuncola for the Pardon of Assisi, and find silence among the oaks at the Eremo delle Carceri.
• Scenery seekers: Capture sunrise over the Umbrian plain, dusky stone lanes, and Monte Subasio’s woodland—calmer than Rome or Florence.
• Active travellers: Walk the Cammino di Francesco, hike out to San Damiano and the hermitage, and use local buses/escalators to ease the steep climbs.
• City-breakers: A compact, walkable base where most highlights are free and best enjoyed early or late—an unhurried counterpoint to Rome.