Antwerp

Day 1: Old town, printing heritage and the river

Ease into Antwerp’s historic core where Gothic spires, Renaissance guildhalls and quiet medieval alleys sit within a few minutes’ walk. Today balances headline masterpieces with atmospheric streets and a sunset on the docks.

• Morning: Step into the Cathedral of Our Lady to see Rubens’ monumental altarpieces in situ, then wander the Grote Markt for a 360° read of the city’s Renaissance wealth before slipping into the Vlaeykensgang alley for a time‑warp pause. Continue to the Museum Plantin‑Moretus to meet Europe’s golden age of printing in its original house and workshops; buy timed tickets and consider an Antwerp City Card if you’re planning three or more paid entries this trip.
• Midday: Lunch near the Groenplaats on classic Flemish staples (vol‑au‑vent or stoofvlees are reliable benchmarks), then amble up the Meir for grand 19th‑century façades and a coffee in a brown café. If it’s raining, this is a good window for the Nottebohmzaal (check if open) or an extra half‑hour among Plantin‑Moretus’ courtyards.
• Afternoon: Stroll north along the quays to Het Eilandje. Take your time at MAS: dip into the Visible Storage on level 2, then ride the glazed escalators that double as a free “vertical boulevard” with changing city views.
• Evening: Watch sunset from the MAS rooftop (free access) before dinner on the docks (seafood suits the setting; book Zilte far ahead if you’re going all‑out). End with a bolleke at a nearby café; in summer the quays hum late, while in winter the red stone of MAS glows beautifully after dark.

Day 2: South district art day (Old Masters to ultra‑contemporary)

Het Zuid is Antwerp’s cultural engine: museums, galleries, and strong bistronomy. Plan around Monday closures; on Thursdays some institutions run late, and Saturdays are best for gallery crawls.

• Morning: Start at KMSKA to thread seven centuries from Van Eyck to Ensor in its luminous new “vertical museum.” Pre‑book weekend slots; bring headphones if you like app‑based guides, and note quietest hours are right at opening.
• Midday: Walk 10 minutes to M HKA for post‑1970 art and moving‑image work; pair it with a quick stop at FOMU if photography tempts. Lunch on Vlaamsekaai or Waalsekaai at a neo‑bistro (short, seasonal menus are the local sweet spot).
• Afternoon: If it’s Saturday, do the informal gallery circuit in Het Zuid (Plus‑One, Tim Van Laere, Zeno X and neighbours) — vernissages often pour a glass and welcome browsers. Alternatively, hop a tram or Velo bike to the Middelheim open‑air sculpture museum for a free, slow ramble among Rodin, Moore and contemporary commissions; it’s magical in golden‑hour light.
• Evening: Dine in ’t Zuid (book ahead Thu–Sat). Natural‑wine bars double as small‑plates spots; in asparagus season (Apr–Jun) look for asperges op z’n Vlaams, in autumn for game dishes. If it’s a Thursday, you can loop back for KMSKA’s late opening to savour favourites without daytime buzz.

Day 3: Architecture, neighbourhood flavour and churches as galleries

Today connects Antwerp’s “railway cathedral” to dreamy Art Nouveau streets, a craft‑food hub, and Baroque‑rich churches. If you’re here on a weekend morning, fold in the local markets; if it’s Monday, prioritise churches and outdoor sights.

• Morning: Arrive via or detour to Antwerpen‑Centraal and ascend from the platforms to the domed concourse — it’s theatre. Tram 11 (or a 20‑minute walk) takes you to Zurenborg for a loop of Cogels‑Osylei, Waterloostraat and Transvaalstraat; look up for sgraffito, stained glass and named houses like De Zonnebloem. Saturday visitors can also start at the Exotic Market on Theaterplein for oysters and a glass of cava at the stall.
• Midday: Head to the De Koninck brewery campus for a self‑guided tour and lunch among on‑site artisans (butcher, affineur, bakery and chocolatier make this a one‑stop tasting hall). Order a bolleke with lunch, and pick up picnic bits if you plan to sit out later.
• Afternoon: Dive back into Baroque in the city centre: St. Charles Borromeo Church and St. Paul’s Church are treasure‑chests with works by Rubens, Jordaens and Van Dyck, typically calmer than the cathedral. Note the Rubenshuis proper is closed for renovation until 2027; seek “Rubens in Residence” loans across the city and the new reception building and garden at Hopland for context if open during your dates.
• Evening: Farewell dinner options span casual mussels‑and‑frites (best in summer mussel season, Jul–Sep) to destination dining (book The Jane or Hertog Jan weeks in advance). In August, check for Museumnacht late openings; in May, Antwerp Art Weekend turns the whole city into an after‑hours art trail.

Notes that help across all three days:

• Most museums close on Mondays; churches, architecture, Middelheim and MAS rooftop keep your Monday lively.
• Pre‑book KMSKA and top restaurants for Thu–Sun; vernissages are usually open‑door.
• The Antwerp City Card pays off from about three museum entries and includes public transport; Velo bikes are ideal for hops to Middelheim or Zurenborg.
• Photography is generally fine without flash; always check temporary‑show rules.

By Air

• Antwerp International (ANR, Deurne) – 5 km from centre; limited regional flights. Bus 51/52/53 to Antwerpen-Berchem (10–15 min) then tram/train to Centraal (5–10 min). Taxi: 15–20 min.
• Brussels Airport (BRU, Zaventem) – 45 km. Direct IC trains to Antwerpen-Centraal/Antwerpen-Berchem every ~30 min; 32–45 min. Driving: 35–50 min.
• Brussels South Charleroi (CRL) – 115 km. Shuttle to Brussels-Midi (55–70 min) + train to Antwerp (35–45 min); total 1.5–2 hours. Driving: 80–100 min.
• Eindhoven (EIN, NL) – 90 km. Bus to Eindhoven station + train via Breda; 1.5–2 hours. Driving: 1–1.5 hours.
• Amsterdam Schiphol (AMS, NL) – 150 km. Direct high-speed/IC trains to Antwerp: 1h10–1h30. Driving: 1h45–2h15.

By Train

• Main stations: Antwerpen-Centraal (primary hub) and Antwerpen-Berchem (key interchange, handy for BRU).
• Domestic times (typical): Brussels (Midi/Central) 35–45 min; Mechelen 15–20 min; Leuven 45–60 min; Ghent 55–70 min; Bruges 1h25–1h45; Liège 1h35–2h.
• International:
  • Amsterdam 1h10–1h30 (IC/Eurostar); Rotterdam 30–50 min.
  • Paris ~2h direct on some Eurostar (ex-Thalys) services; via Brussels ~2h20–2h40.
  • London ~3h00–3h40 (Eurostar to Brussels-Midi + IC to Antwerp).
  • Cologne ~2h20–2h50 (via Brussels or Liège); Frankfurt ~3h30–4h30.
• Notes: Buy via SNCB/NMBS. Brussels Airport station carries a small surcharge. Seat reservations required on Eurostar.

By Car

• Motorways: E19 (Brussels/Amsterdam), E17 (Ghent/Lille/Paris), E34 (Eindhoven/Zeebrugge), E313 (Liège).
• Ring (R1) often congested; Kennedytunnel is a bottleneck. Liefkenshoektunnel (toll) can bypass city traffic.
• Low-Emission Zone (LEZ): city centre and parts of Linkeroever. Foreign vehicles must register online; older vehicles may be restricted or need a day pass. Fines apply.
• Parking: Limited/expensive in centre. Use Park & Ride sites (P+R Linkeroever, Luchtbal, Merksem, Wommelgem) with frequent tram/bus to the centre.
• Typical drive times: Brussels 45–70 min; Ghent 45–60 min; Bruges 1h15–1h40; Liège 1h15–1h45; Rotterdam 1h–1h30; Amsterdam 1h45–2h15; Lille 1h30–1h50; Paris 3h–3h45 (traffic dependent).