Ajaccio

Day 1: Market mornings and the old town

Ease into Ajaccio’s rhythm in the palm-shaded centre. Today focuses on flavours and first impressions, with time to browse without rushing and to learn local etiquette (always greet with a clear “Bonjour”).

• Morning: Start at the Marché Central on Place Foch (07:00–13:00; closed Mondays off-season). Look for AOP/AOC labels (Brocciu, Miel de Corse, Oliu di Corsica, AOC Ajaccio wines), “Vente directe” signs, and politely ask for a dégustation. Bring small cash, keep an eye on your bag, and pick up canistrelli, honey, or charcuterie for later.
• Midday: Linger over a coffee beneath the palms or assemble a picnic from market treats. Many independent shops pause for lunch (roughly 12:30–15:00), so use the quiet hour to slip into the Palais Fesch and its tasteful book-and-gift shop if you want refined souvenirs without crowds.
• Afternoon: Browse Rue Fesch: épiceries fines such as U Spuntinu or Le Goût de la Corse, multi-brand fashion, jewellers (ask about traceability for coral or an Oeil de Sainte Lucie), and the independent bookshop La Marge for Corsican history and literature. Don’t haggle; patience and a friendly “Bonjour/merci” go a long way.
• Evening: Stroll the port; in high season, look for pop-up artisan markets along the waterfront. Dine on local fish with a glass of AOC Ajaccio wine; reserve ahead in summer and keep valuables close in busy evening crowds.

Day 2: Cours Napoléon to artisan ateliers

Switch between the city’s practical spine and its craft traditions. You’ll glimpse everyday Ajaccio on Cours Napoléon before diving back into small workshops and speciality shops in the old lanes.

• Morning: Do errands on Cours Napoléon (Galeries Lafayette, pharmacies, mobile shops) and watch for the national Soldes (January; late June/July) for fashion bargains. If driving, use underground parking near Place Foch to avoid circling.
• Midday: Wander the old town lanes (Rue Bonaparte, Rue Conventionnel Saliceti) for ateliers and specialist shops; seek a dedicated coutellerie for a real Corsican knife (ask who made the blade, materials like ram’s horn or olive wood, and for the artisan’s signature). Break for a simple bistro lunch and remember many doors shut for the pause déjeuner.
• Afternoon: Dip into Napoleonic memorabilia shops or a small brocante for prints and curios. Stock up on Oliu di Corsica AOP olive oil and Miel de Corse AOP from an épicerie fine; ask about shipping if you’d rather not carry liquids.
• Evening: Take an apéritif on Place Foch, then window-shop Rue Fesch in the dusk. In off-season, conversations with shopkeepers are warmer and unhurried; slipping a few Corsican words (Bonghjornu, Grazie) is appreciated.

Day 3: Hyper-local life and thoughtful final buys

Step outside the postcard centre to see where locals shop, or double down on producers and speciality purchases. Wrap up with sustainable, well-chosen souvenirs and a relaxed farewell stroll.

• Morning: Head to the Zone Commerciale de Baleone (Auchan, big-box stores) for a slice of everyday Corsican life—go early to avoid traffic. Not into malls? Return to the market for seasonal highlights (figatellu and new olive oil in winter; clementines in late autumn; abundant fruit in summer).
• Midday: Build a beach picnic from your finds or settle into a café terrace. Note Sunday and off-season closures; high season brings extended hours and more open doors.
• Afternoon: Make considered purchases: at a reputable jeweller, ask for certificates and legal origin if buying red coral; for food, choose vacuum-sealed charcuterie or well-wrapped cheeses for travel. Museum or bookshop gifts are weight-light and culture-rich if you’re tight on luggage space.
• Evening: Farewell promenade along Rue Fesch and the port; in December, browse the Natale in Aiacciu Christmas market at Place Foch. Pack with care (liquids and knives in checked luggage), toast with a Muscat or myrtle liqueur, and offer a warm “A prestu” to your favourite vendors.

By Air

• Ajaccio Napoléon Bonaparte Airport (AJA) sits about 6–7 km from the city centre; 15–20 minutes by taxi or car. A local bus links the airport with the centre/bus station; car hire is on site.
• Year-round and seasonal direct flights from Paris (Orly/CDG), Marseille, Nice, Lyon, Toulouse and other French/European cities. Main carriers include Air Corsica, Air France, easyJet and Volotea.
• Other Corsican airports within driving range: Figari–Sud Corse (about 2–2.5 hours), Bastia Poretta (about 2.5–3 hours), Calvi Sainte‑Catherine (about 2.5–3 hours).

By Train

• There is no rail link from mainland France to Corsica; arrive by air or ferry first.
• On-island rail (Chemins de Fer de la Corse) connects Ajaccio (Gare d’Ajaccio, by the harbour) with Corte and Bastia, and via a change at Ponte-Leccia to Calvi.
• Typical journey times: Ajaccio–Corte ~2 h 15; Ajaccio–Bastia ~3 h 45; Ajaccio–Calvi ~4 h 30–5 h. Several services daily, more in summer.

By Ferry

• The Port of Ajaccio (Gare Maritime) is in the city centre and handles foot passengers and vehicles.
• Routes include Marseille (usually overnight; ~10–12 hours) with Corsica Linea, and Toulon/Nice (~6–8 hours) with Corsica Ferries. Seasonal links operate to Porto Torres (Sardinia; ~4–5 hours).
• Advance booking is strongly advised in high season; cabins available on overnight crossings.

By Bus/Coach

• Ajaccio’s Gare Routière sits next to the harbour and railway station. Regional buses run to Propriano, Sartène, Bonifacio, Porto‑Vecchio, Porto/Piana, Corte and Bastia (limited frequency).
• Timetables vary by season; check current schedules locally or via Corsica mobility websites. The airport is served by a dedicated city bus.

By Car

• Main roads: N193/T20 over the Col de Vizzavona to Corte and Bastia; N196 to Propriano–Sartène–Bonifacio; D81 north to Cargèse–Porto.
• Approximate driving times from Ajaccio: Bastia ~3 hours; Bonifacio ~2.5–3 hours; Porto‑Vecchio ~2.5–3 hours; Calvi ~3.5–4 hours.
• Car hire is widely available (airport, port, city). Parking in the centre is limited—use underground car parks near Place Foch/Place de Gaulle.