Aix-en-Provence

A refined Provençal city of fountains, art and café terraces, Aix-en-Provence suits travellers who value culture, atmosphere and the art of living well. With grand boulevards and a maze-like old town, it offers romance without crowds, markets without kitsch and coffee worth lingering over. Whether you prefer opera under the stars or street music with a glass of rosé, Aix rewards slow exploration.

• History lovers: Walk from Roman Aquae Sextiae to King René’s court and Cézanne’s haunts in minutes, with landmarks from the Quartier Mazarin to the storied (soon-reborn) Les Deux Garçons.
• Art & culture buffs: World-class opera at the Festival d’Aix in July, Cézanne’s studio and Sainte-Victoire viewpoints, plus Musée Granet exhibitions make Aix a cultured rival to Avignon.
• Coffee connoisseurs & flâneurs: Savour terrace life on Cours Mirabeau—Parisian-style but sunnier—or seek third‑wave precision at Mana Espresso and old‑school roasting at La Brûlerie Richelme.
• Romantics: Share quiet moments by the fountains of Place d’Albertas, stroll the Pavillon de Vendôme gardens, and time the Cours Mirabeau for dawn or late evening—more intimate than Marseille.
• Foodies & shoppers: Feast on thrice‑weekly markets and the daily Place Richelme, sample iconic calissons from Le Roy René or Béchard, and browse indie boutiques before Les Allées Provençales for big brands.
• Festival & music fans: From Easter’s classical fest and July’s opera to free Musique dans la Rue and Zik Zac, plus contemporary gigs at 6MIC that can match for energy.

Day 1: Old town, fountains and terraces

Ease into Aix with its ritual of coffee, fountains and people‑watching beneath plane trees. Today is about feeling the rhythm of the historic centre and its terrace life, with gentle doses of art and sweet treats.

• Morning: Join locals at Place Richelme’s daily market for fruit, goat’s cheese and olives; sip a quick expresso at the counter in La Brûlerie Richelme (cheapest and most authentic). On Tuesdays/Thursdays/Saturdays the grand market spills into Place des Prêcheurs and Place Verdun (antiques/brocante): arrive by 9:00 for the best pick.
• Midday: Take a slow promenade along Cours Mirabeau and settle on a classic terrace such as Le Grillon for a café crème and people‑watching. Cross into the quiet grid of the Quartier Mazarin; visit Musée Granet (cool in summer heat), then pause by Place des Quatre‑Dauphins.
• Afternoon: Wander to Pavillon de Vendôme for a romantic breather in its formal garden; then switch gears with a meticulously brewed flat white at Mana Espresso. Pick up a box of calissons from Béchard or Le Roy René for later.
• Evening: Linger over apéro (a glass of local rosé or a pastis) on Place des Cardeurs before a late dinner (book 20:30–21:00; earlier is touristy). Seasonal note: mid‑June brings free Aix en Juin pop‑ups, July is opera season (book months ahead), late Nov–Dec swaps apéro for vin chaud on the Christmas market.

Day 2: Cézanne’s footsteps and secret corners

Trace Paul Cézanne’s life from his studio to the views that shaped modern art, then slip back into Aix’s hidden passages and bookish cafés. The day blends landscape, quiet discoveries and a contemporary music finish.

• Morning: Fuel with a noisette at the counter near Place Richelme, then tour Atelier de Cézanne (timed slots sell out—book ahead). Walk 15 minutes uphill to Terrain des Peintres to line up Sainte‑Victoire with Cézanne’s canvases; go early in summer to beat the heat, wear comfy shoes.

By Air

• Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) – approx. 25–30 km from Aix. Airport coaches run every 10–20 minutes to Aix’s bus station (about 30–35 minutes). Taxi/car: 25–35 minutes depending on traffic.
• Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) – approx. 170 km (about 1 h 45–2 h 15 by car). Train/coach via Marseille if not using a direct coach.
• Montpellier Méditerranée (MPL) – approx. 155 km (about 1 h 45–2 h by car); rail via Montpellier–Marseille then onward.
• Toulon–Hyères (TLN) – approx. 90 km (about 1 h 15 by car); limited flights.
• Avignon–Provence (AVN) – approx. 85 km (about 1 h by car); mainly seasonal flights.

By Train

• Aix-en-Provence TGV (high-speed station) – 15–20 km west of the centre. Shuttle buses to Aix bus station take about 20–30 minutes. Direct TGVs to Paris (about 3 h), Lyon (about 1 h 20), Marseille (about 12–15 min), Avignon (about 20–30 min), Valence and beyond (check schedules).
• Aix-en-Provence (centre) station – regional TER services to Marseille St-Charles (about 35–40 min), Gardanne, Manosque, Gap/Briançon line.
• Marseille St-Charles is the main regional hub for onward connections across France and into Spain/Italy.

By Bus/Coach

• Aix-en-Provence bus station (Gare Routière, Avenue de l’Europe) is the hub for:

Aix-en-Provence offers the sunlit, cultured Provençal experience—without the crush—pairing grand avenues, quiet squares and year‑round arts in a compact, walkable city.

• Culture & arts: Expect close‑up encounters over blockbuster queues—Festival d’Aix-en-Provence, chamber concerts at the Théâtre du Jeu de Paume, Cézanne’s studio and Sainte‑Victoire viewpoints at the Terrain des Peintres.
• Café life: From wicker chairs on Cours Mirabeau to market‑side counters on Place Richelme and speciality brews at Mana Espresso, coffee here is about lingering and people‑watching—great value if you sip an espresso at the zinc.
• Old town & fountains: Drift through the Quartier Mazarin and Place des Quatre‑Dauphins to hidden courtyards, then shop the daily markets for goat’s cheese, AOP olive oil and calissons—authentic flavours without the frenzy.
• Evenings & easy pace: Apéro on mellow squares, street music during Musique dans la Rue, and romantic laps of Pavillon de Vendôme; boutique browsing on Rue d’Italie and Rue Espariat brings quality finds without big‑city mark‑ups.

Planning a visit? These are the unmissable highlights of Aix‑en‑Provence, blending art, ambience and Provençal flavour.

• Walk the plane‑tree‑shaded Cours Mirabeau at golden hour, lingering for an espresso on a terrace where Cézanne and Zola once met.
• Explore the Quartier Mazarin and Place des Quatre‑Dauphins, slipping into secret courtyards and listening to murmuring fountains.
• Visit the bustling markets (Tue, Thu, Sat) for Provençal produce, calissons and the brocante on Place Verdun before a café at Place Richelme.
• Take in world‑class opera at the Théâtre de l’Archevêché or a free Aix en Juin concert, or catch a modern gig at 6MIC.
• Hike to the Terrain des Peintres for Cézanne’s Sainte‑Victoire view, or along the Route Cézanne for a picnic with local rosé.

Planning a visit? These are the unmissable highlights of Aix‑en‑Provence, blending art, ambience and Provençal flavour.

• Walk the plane‑tree‑shaded Cours Mirabeau at golden hour, lingering for an espresso on a terrace where Cézanne and Zola once met.
• Explore the Quartier Mazarin and Place des Quatre‑Dauphins, slipping into secret courtyards and listening to murmuring fountains.
• Visit the bustling markets (Tue, Thu, Sat) for Provençal produce, calissons and the brocante on Place Verdun before a café at Place Richelme.
• Take in world‑class opera at the Théâtre de l’Archevêché or a free Aix en Juin concert, or catch a modern gig at 6MIC.
• Hike to the Terrain des Peintres for Cézanne’s Sainte‑Victoire view, or along the Route Cézanne for a picnic with local rosé.

Food in Aix-en-Provence is all about Provençal produce, ritual, and a relaxed tempo. Start at the markets, linger on terraces, and follow the locals from morning coffee to sunset apéro. Expect bright flavours: olive oil, garlic, herbs, almonds, and sun‑ripened fruit.

• Calissons d’Aix – the city’s iconic almond and candied-melon diamond; pick up a small box from an artisan confiserie and enjoy with a coffee on a sunny café terrace.
• Grand aïoli – garlicky olive-oil emulsion with poached cod, eggs, and seasonal veg; best savoured as a long lunch at a brasserie or on a shaded terrace.
• L’apéro (rosé de Provence or pastis) – a chilled local rosé (try Palette AOC) or aniseed pastis at sunset; perfect for people-watching at lively bars on Place des Cardeurs or along the Cours Mirabeau.
• Market picnic – assemble chèvre, olives, fougasse, and ripe tomatoes from Place Richelme; eat al fresco in a nearby square or park to soak up the market buzz.

Food in Aix-en-Provence is all about Provençal produce, ritual, and a relaxed tempo. Start at the markets, linger on terraces, and follow the locals from morning coffee to sunset apéro. Expect bright flavours: olive oil, garlic, herbs, almonds, and sun‑ripened fruit.

• Calissons d’Aix – the city’s iconic almond and candied-melon diamond; pick up a small box from an artisan confiserie and enjoy with a coffee on a sunny café terrace.
• Grand aïoli – garlicky olive-oil emulsion with poached cod, eggs, and seasonal veg; best savoured as a long lunch at a brasserie or on a shaded terrace.
• L’apéro (rosé de Provence or pastis) – a chilled local rosé (try Palette AOC) or aniseed pastis at sunset; perfect for people-watching at lively bars on Place des Cardeurs or along the Cours Mirabeau.
• Market picnic – assemble chèvre, olives, fougasse, and ripe tomatoes from Place Richelme; eat al fresco in a nearby square or park to soak up the market buzz.

Choosing the right area in Aix-en-Provence sets the tone for your trip. Think about the vibe you want—market mornings, terrace people‑watching, quiet elegance, or rustic escapes—rather than a specific hotel. Here are the best bases and who they suit.

• Vieille Ville (Old Town) — honey‑stone lanes around Place de l’Hôtel de Ville and Place Richelme; for history lovers and café‑hopping mornings, with cobbles and a little late‑night bustle.
• Cours Mirabeau & Rotonde — grand boulevard terraces and prime people‑watching; ideal for first‑timers who want walk‑everywhere convenience, shopping, and lively evenings.
• Quartier Mazarin — refined 17th‑century hôtels particuliers by Place des Quatre‑Dauphins; perfect for couples, art/architecture fans, and quiet, upscale nights.
• Puyricard & Le Tholonet (Countryside) — vineyard bastides and Sainte‑Victoire views; best for romantic retreats and slow living—car essential.

Choosing the right area in Aix-en-Provence sets the tone for your trip. Think about the vibe you want—market mornings, terrace people‑watching, quiet elegance, or rustic escapes—rather than a specific hotel. Here are the best bases and who they suit.

• Vieille Ville (Old Town) — honey‑stone lanes around Place de l’Hôtel de Ville and Place Richelme; for history lovers and café‑hopping mornings, with cobbles and a little late‑night bustle.
• Cours Mirabeau & Rotonde — grand boulevard terraces and prime people‑watching; ideal for first‑timers who want walk‑everywhere convenience, shopping, and lively evenings.
• Quartier Mazarin — refined 17th‑century hôtels particuliers by Place des Quatre‑Dauphins; perfect for couples, art/architecture fans, and quiet, upscale nights.
• Puyricard & Le Tholonet (Countryside) — vineyard bastides and Sainte‑Victoire views; best for romantic retreats and slow living—car essential.

Travel to Aix-en-Provence is straightforward: the compact centre, clear transit links, and relaxed rhythms make it easy to enjoy. A few practical details on costs, transport, language, safety, and crowds will help you plan smoothly.

• Affordability: Aix is on the pricier side for Provence; expect coffees €2.50–4 on terraces, a glass of rosé €5–8, set lunch menus around €18–25, mid‑range dinners €25–40 per person, and mid‑range hotels about €110–180 per night (budget rooms/apartments €80–120; luxury €300+), with markets offering excellent value for picnic supplies.
• Transport: The historic centre is very walkable and largely pedestrianised; use Aix en Bus and park‑and‑ride car parks for easy access, shuttle buses link the TGV station and Marseille Provence Airport, a car is handy for Montagne Sainte‑Victoire, Luberon villages and vineyards, and for the coast take train/bus to Marseille or Cassis for boats to the calanques.
• Language: French is the main language; English is widely understood in tourism and by younger locals, but a friendly “Bonjour/Bonsoir” and simple phrases will noticeably improve service.
• Safety & comfort: Generally very safe and friendly for families and solo travellers; watch for petty theft in crowds (Cours Mirabeau, markets), avoid driving into the centre by using park‑and‑ride, wear good shoes for cobbles, and plan for summer heat with water, hat and sunscreen.
• Crowds: Peak season is July–August (especially during the opera festival) with higher prices and packed terraces; spring and autumn are ideal shoulder seasons, winter is calm apart from Christmas market weeks, and market mornings (Tue/Thu/Sat) are the busiest times, with extra day‑trippers on summer weekends.

Travel to Aix-en-Provence is straightforward: the compact centre, clear transit links, and relaxed rhythms make it easy to enjoy. A few practical details on costs, transport, language, safety, and crowds will help you plan smoothly.

• Affordability: Aix is on the pricier side for Provence; expect coffees €2.50–4 on terraces, a glass of rosé €5–8, set lunch menus around €18–25, mid‑range dinners €25–40 per person, and mid‑range hotels about €110–180 per night (budget rooms/apartments €80–120; luxury €300+), with markets offering excellent value for picnic supplies.
• Transport: The historic centre is very walkable and largely pedestrianised; use Aix en Bus and park‑and‑ride car parks for easy access, shuttle buses link the TGV station and Marseille Provence Airport, a car is handy for Montagne Sainte‑Victoire, Luberon villages and vineyards, and for the coast take train/bus to Marseille or Cassis for boats to the calanques.
• Language: French is the main language; English is widely understood in tourism and by younger locals, but a friendly “Bonjour/Bonsoir” and simple phrases will noticeably improve service.
• Safety & comfort: Generally very safe and friendly for families and solo travellers; watch for petty theft in crowds (Cours Mirabeau, markets), avoid driving into the centre by using park‑and‑ride, wear good shoes for cobbles, and plan for summer heat with water, hat and sunscreen.
• Crowds: Peak season is July–August (especially during the opera festival) with higher prices and packed terraces; spring and autumn are ideal shoulder seasons, winter is calm apart from Christmas market weeks, and market mornings (Tue/Thu/Sat) are the busiest times, with extra day‑trippers on summer weekends.

In Aix-en-Provence, a Mediterranean climate shapes the rhythm of terrace life and festivals: spring and autumn are the sweet spots for comfort and ambience, while July–August brings peak heat and crowds. Markets run year-round, but the city feels most romantic outside the busiest summer weeks.

• Spring (Apr–May): Mild to warm, blossom-filled streets and lively terraces; moderate crowds and an upbeat, local vibe.
• High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (often 30°C+), very busy with the opera festival; late-night energy, higher prices—book well ahead.
• Autumn (Sep–Oct): Warm days, golden light and thinner crowds; relaxed, romantic atmosphere with nearby harvest happenings.

In Aix-en-Provence, a Mediterranean climate shapes the rhythm of terrace life and festivals: spring and autumn are the sweet spots for comfort and ambience, while July–August brings peak heat and crowds. Markets run year-round, but the city feels most romantic outside the busiest summer weeks.

• Spring (Apr–May): Mild to warm, blossom-filled streets and lively terraces; moderate crowds and an upbeat, local vibe.
• High Summer (Jul–Aug): Hot (often 30°C+), very busy with the opera festival; late-night energy, higher prices—book well ahead.
• Autumn (Sep–Oct): Warm days, golden light and thinner crowds; relaxed, romantic atmosphere with nearby harvest happenings.

Day 3: Markets, makers and a night at the opera (or open‑air cinema)

Shop like an Aixois and follow the city’s seasonal pulse—from textiles and antiques to pâtisserie and perfume—then end with culture under the stars. Today is flexible: tilt it to shopping, galleries or performance.

• Morning: If it’s Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday, work the full market circuit: produce at Place des Prêcheurs, crafts/antiques at Place Verdun, flowers at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, textiles along Cours Mirabeau. Tip: greet with Bonjour, don’t handle produce, haggle only (politely) at the brocante; bring a panier (basket) and cash for small purchases.
• Midday: Graze Rue d’Italie’s gourmet shops for a light lunch or set menu in a shaded square. Sweet stop: Weibel for an almond‑rich dessert or an Aixois speciality; in winter, swap terrace seating for a cosy salon de thé.
• Afternoon: Browse independent boutiques around Rue Espariat and Place d’Albertas, or detour to Les Allées Provençales for big‑brand errands. At goùter time (around 16:00–17:00), take a café crème and pastry; in high summer, have a siesta window indoors before the cooler evening.
• Evening: Choose your finale by season: July’s Festival d’Aix at Théâtre de l’Archevêché (smart‑casual; arrive early), Zik Zac’s free world‑music nights at the Théâtre de Verdure du Jas de Bouffan (early July), Les Nuits Pianistiques recitals (late July–Aug), or December’s Christmas market and Foire aux Santons. Practical tip: use park‑and‑ride car parks on show nights; at cafés, ask for L’addition when ready—tables are yours for as long as you like.

• Airport shuttles (MRS–Aix, about 30–35 min).
• TGV station shuttles (Aix TGV–Aix centre, about 20–30 min).
• Regional ZOU! buses to Marseille (about 30–40 min), Salon-de-Provence (about 40 min), Avignon (about 1 h 30), Arles (about 1 h 20), Luberon (Apt, about 1 h 15).
• Long-distance coaches (FlixBus, BlaBlaCar Bus) to Nice (about 2 h 30–3 h), Lyon (about 3–4 h), Montpellier (about 2–3 h), Paris (overnight, about 9–11 h).

By Car

• Motorways: A8 (east–west) and A51 (north–south) serve Aix.
• Typical drive times: Marseille 30–40 min; Marseille Provence Airport 25–35 min; Avignon about 1 h 10; Arles about 1 h; Nice 1 h 45–2 h; Montpellier about 1 h 45; Lyon about 3 h; Paris 7–8 h (A7/A6).
• Parking: the centre is largely pedestrianised. Use park-and-ride sites (parcs-relais) with shuttle buses, or central car parks such as Rotonde, Mignet, Carnot. Traffic is heavier in summer.

A refined Provençal city of fountains, art and café terraces, Aix-en-Provence suits travellers who value culture, atmosphere and the art of living well. With grand boulevards and a maze-like old town, it offers romance without crowds, markets without kitsch and coffee worth lingering over. Whether you prefer opera under the stars or street music with a glass of rosé, Aix rewards slow exploration.

• History lovers: Walk from Roman Aquae Sextiae to King René’s court and Cézanne’s haunts in minutes, with landmarks from the Quartier Mazarin to the storied (soon-reborn) Les Deux Garçons.
• Art & culture buffs: World-class opera at the Festival d’Aix in July, Cézanne’s studio and Sainte-Victoire viewpoints, plus Musée Granet exhibitions make Aix a cultured rival to Avignon.
• Coffee connoisseurs & flâneurs: Savour terrace life on Cours Mirabeau—Parisian-style but sunnier—or seek third‑wave precision at Mana Espresso and old‑school roasting at La Brûlerie Richelme.
• Romantics: Share quiet moments by the fountains of Place d’Albertas, stroll the Pavillon de Vendôme gardens, and time the Cours Mirabeau for dawn or late evening—more intimate than Marseille.
• Foodies & shoppers: Feast on thrice‑weekly markets and the daily Place Richelme, sample iconic calissons from Le Roy René or Béchard, and browse indie boutiques before Les Allées Provençales for big brands.
• Festival & music fans: From Easter’s classical fest and July’s opera to free Musique dans la Rue and Zik Zac, plus contemporary gigs at 6MIC that can match Marseille for energy.