Aix-en-Provence

Day 1: Old town, fountains and terraces

Ease into Aix with its ritual of coffee, fountains and people‑watching beneath plane trees. Today is about feeling the rhythm of the historic centre and its terrace life, with gentle doses of art and sweet treats.

• Morning: Join locals at Place Richelme’s daily market for fruit, goat’s cheese and olives; sip a quick expresso at the counter in La Brûlerie Richelme (cheapest and most authentic). On Tuesdays/Thursdays/Saturdays the grand market spills into Place des Prêcheurs and Place Verdun (antiques/brocante): arrive by 9:00 for the best pick.
• Midday: Take a slow promenade along Cours Mirabeau and settle on a classic terrace such as Le Grillon for a café crème and people‑watching. Cross into the quiet grid of the Quartier Mazarin; visit Musée Granet (cool in summer heat), then pause by Place des Quatre‑Dauphins.
• Afternoon: Wander to Pavillon de Vendôme for a romantic breather in its formal garden; then switch gears with a meticulously brewed flat white at Mana Espresso. Pick up a box of calissons from Béchard or Le Roy René for later.
• Evening: Linger over apéro (a glass of local rosé or a pastis) on Place des Cardeurs before a late dinner (book 20:30–21:00; earlier is touristy). Seasonal note: mid‑June brings free Aix en Juin pop‑ups, July is opera season (book months ahead), late Nov–Dec swaps apéro for vin chaud on the Christmas market.

Day 2: Cézanne’s footsteps and secret corners

Trace Paul Cézanne’s life from his studio to the views that shaped modern art, then slip back into Aix’s hidden passages and bookish cafés. The day blends landscape, quiet discoveries and a contemporary music finish.

• Morning: Fuel with a noisette at the counter near Place Richelme, then tour Atelier de Cézanne (timed slots sell out—book ahead). Walk 15 minutes uphill to Terrain des Peintres to line up Sainte‑Victoire with Cézanne’s canvases; go early in summer to beat the heat, wear comfy shoes.
• Midday: Assemble a picnic from the market (baguette, tapenade, chèvre) and eat at Terrain des Peintres or in Parc Jourdan; alternatively drive/bus to Le Tholonet for a simple lunch beneath plane trees along the Route Cézanne.
• Afternoon: Back in town, slip through Passage Agard (a covered 19th‑century shortcut) and decompress at Book in Bar with coffee and a new read. Flâner north of the cathedral into quieter lanes; pause at Place d’Albertas to listen to the fountain and browse vintage along Rue des Tanneurs.
• Evening: Catch a contemporary gig at 6MIC (bus L’Aixpress stops right outside; the larger hall hosts touring acts, smaller room suits indie/jazz). Alternative: a symphony or recital at Grand Théâtre de Provence; late August often means free Musique dans la Rue concerts across town.

Day 3: Markets, makers and a night at the opera (or open‑air cinema)

Shop like an Aixois and follow the city’s seasonal pulse—from textiles and antiques to pâtisserie and perfume—then end with culture under the stars. Today is flexible: tilt it to shopping, galleries or performance.

• Morning: If it’s Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday, work the full market circuit: produce at Place des Prêcheurs, crafts/antiques at Place Verdun, flowers at Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, textiles along Cours Mirabeau. Tip: greet with Bonjour, don’t handle produce, haggle only (politely) at the brocante; bring a panier (basket) and cash for small purchases.
• Midday: Graze Rue d’Italie’s gourmet shops for a light lunch or set menu in a shaded square. Sweet stop: Weibel for an almond‑rich dessert or an Aixois speciality; in winter, swap terrace seating for a cosy salon de thé.
• Afternoon: Browse independent boutiques around Rue Espariat and Place d’Albertas, or detour to Les Allées Provençales for big‑brand errands. At goùter time (around 16:00–17:00), take a café crème and pastry; in high summer, have a siesta window indoors before the cooler evening.
• Evening: Choose your finale by season: July’s Festival d’Aix at Théâtre de l’Archevêché (smart‑casual; arrive early), Zik Zac’s free world‑music nights at the Théâtre de Verdure du Jas de Bouffan (early July), Les Nuits Pianistiques recitals (late July–Aug), or December’s Christmas market and Foire aux Santons. Practical tip: use park‑and‑ride car parks on show nights; at cafés, ask for L’addition when ready—tables are yours for as long as you like.

By Air

• Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) – approx. 25–30 km from Aix. Airport coaches run every 10–20 minutes to Aix’s bus station (about 30–35 minutes). Taxi/car: 25–35 minutes depending on traffic.
• Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) – approx. 170 km (about 1 h 45–2 h 15 by car). Train/coach via Marseille if not using a direct coach.
• Montpellier Méditerranée (MPL) – approx. 155 km (about 1 h 45–2 h by car); rail via Montpellier–Marseille then onward.
• Toulon–Hyères (TLN) – approx. 90 km (about 1 h 15 by car); limited flights.
• Avignon–Provence (AVN) – approx. 85 km (about 1 h by car); mainly seasonal flights.

By Train

• Aix-en-Provence TGV (high-speed station) – 15–20 km west of the centre. Shuttle buses to Aix bus station take about 20–30 minutes. Direct TGVs to Paris (about 3 h), Lyon (about 1 h 20), Marseille (about 12–15 min), Avignon (about 20–30 min), Valence and beyond (check schedules).
• Aix-en-Provence (centre) station – regional TER services to Marseille St-Charles (about 35–40 min), Gardanne, Manosque, Gap/Briançon line.
• Marseille St-Charles is the main regional hub for onward connections across France and into Spain/Italy.

By Bus/Coach

• Aix-en-Provence bus station (Gare Routière, Avenue de l’Europe) is the hub for:
  • Airport shuttles (MRS–Aix, about 30–35 min).
  • TGV station shuttles (Aix TGV–Aix centre, about 20–30 min).
  • Regional ZOU! buses to Marseille (about 30–40 min), Salon-de-Provence (about 40 min), Avignon (about 1 h 30), Arles (about 1 h 20), Luberon (Apt, about 1 h 15).
  • Long-distance coaches (FlixBus, BlaBlaCar Bus) to Nice (about 2 h 30–3 h), Lyon (about 3–4 h), Montpellier (about 2–3 h), Paris (overnight, about 9–11 h).

By Car

• Motorways: A8 (east–west) and A51 (north–south) serve Aix.
• Typical drive times: Marseille 30–40 min; Marseille Provence Airport 25–35 min; Avignon about 1 h 10; Arles about 1 h; Nice 1 h 45–2 h; Montpellier about 1 h 45; Lyon about 3 h; Paris 7–8 h (A7/A6).
• Parking: the centre is largely pedestrianised. Use park-and-ride sites (parcs-relais) with shuttle buses, or central car parks such as Rotonde, Mignet, Carnot. Traffic is heavier in summer.